Sharing a bench drill chuck with lathe or get a chuck specifically for the lathe?

[JM83]

Hey folks, Ive just got my new lathe setup and I’d like to add a drill chuck. The lathe (RP DML320) is MT2, so been looking at different chucks around £40 - £50. Im also wanting to add a bench drill to my workshop which got me thinking would it make sense going for a bench drill that uses MT2 and share the chuck between the 2 machines, at least for the time being.

The bench drill I was looking at is the SIP B20-16. Im not sure if swapping the chuck would be more hassle than its worth but thought id ask here incase anyone else does the same.

If anyone has experience with that particular drill, it would be good to hear your thoughts on it. Also are there are any recommendations for a MT2 drill chuck if I were to get a separate chuck for the lathe.

Cheers

 

[Linus]

I got my MT2 chuck from RDG tools and it's been fine for several years. I would suggest that if you have the option then get a chuck with drawbar for use on the lathe. Not vital but useful and safer.

 

[Ttrees]

If you're looking at cheap to moderately priced pillar drills,
Just wait until you acquire one, as you might have to replace the chuck on it,
quite likely on many's a machine.
Likely alright for the lathe for a lot of stuff.

 

[Robbo3]

I swapped chucks between the lathe & drill press when I first started & it's no great hassle.
Chronos have a fair selection. Free shipping or £6.95 next day
- Search Results - Chronos Engineering Tools

 

[JM83]

Cheers for the replies folks

Linus, thanks for mentioning the drawbar (had to look up what it was) but looks like it will help keep the drilling true as well as being a bit safer.

Ttrees, yeah the drill I was looking at is fairly cheap (SIP B20-16) but ive not done a lot of research yet so not sure how the chuck is on it, but guessing it wont be the best.

Robbo3, thats good to know that you done the same as I was thinking and wasnt too much hassle. Il check out the Chronos stuff too

 

[flh801978]

You only need a drawbar if you are mounting the chuck in the headstock,,,no need in the tailstock
ian

 

[ChaiLatte]

I would suggest that if you have the option then get a chuck with drawbar for use on the lathe.

Could you explain how an axially-loaded chuck in a lathe* presents more risk of coming loose (thus necessitating a drawbar) than an axially-loaded chuck in a drilling machine?

Given that gravity is working against it in a drilling machine, it might be argued that extra restraint is needed in that machine.

It is not clear if you are suggesting he buy a single chuck and arbor or one for each machine. If you are suggesting the drawbar version as suitable for both machines, please advise how he will remove a non-tanged drawbar arbor from the Morse taper socket of his drill press (or his lathe tailstock, assuming it is not through bored).

* and just to cover the other suggestion, why an axially-loaded item in a headstock is different to an axially-loaded item in a tailstock

 

[Phil Pascoe]

A Jacob's type chuck without a drawbar in the headstock is a liability. It would not be, of course, if there were perpetual pressure against it, but there isn't. The same chuck in the tailstock isn't moving so unlikely to come loose, though if I'm trying to be very accurate I pull mine in with a drawbar.
A Jacob's No.34 is quite a weight when it launches. Damhikt.

 

[Phill05]

Could you explain how an axially-loaded chuck in a lathe* presents more risk of coming loose (thus necessitating a drawbar) than an axially-loaded chuck in a drilling machine?

Given that gravity is working against it in a drilling machine, it might be argued that extra restraint is needed in that machine.

It is not clear if you are suggesting he buy a single chuck and arbor or one for each machine. If you are suggesting the drawbar version as suitable for both machines, please advise how he will remove a non-tanged drawbar arbor from the Morse taper socket of his drill press (or his lathe tailstock, assuming it is not through bored).

* and just to cover the other suggestion, why an axially-loaded item in a headstock is different to an axially-loaded item in a tailstock

A Mt2 drill chuck is meant to have pressure applied vertically in a bench drill this holds the chuck in the spindle.
The very same if used in the tailstock of a lathe.

If the same bench drill can be used as a Mill then the chuck can have side pressure applied and would then need a draw-bar to hold the Mt2 from coming out.
The very same if used in the head-stock of a lathe.

 

[Linus]

Could you explain how an axially-loaded chuck in a lathe* presents more risk of coming loose (thus necessitating a drawbar) than an axially-loaded chuck in a drilling machine?

Given that gravity is working against it in a drilling machine, it might be argued that extra restraint is needed in that machine.

It is not clear if you are suggesting he buy a single chuck and arbor or one for each machine. If you are suggesting the drawbar version as suitable for both machines, please advise how he will remove a non-tanged drawbar arbor from the Morse taper socket of his drill press (or his lathe tailstock, assuming it is not through bored).

* and just to cover the other suggestion, why an axially-loaded item in a headstock is different to an axially-loaded item in a tailstock

I think @Phil Pascoe and @Phill05 have answered your questions admirably on my behalf. The question regarding suitability for both machines can only be answered by the owner of the machines depending upon their designs. Regarding the argument for a drawbar for headstock use in a lathe, I often use my Jacobs chuck in the headstock to hold my buffing wheel which, by it's nature, is not finely balanced and apt to work loose without restraint, especially at high revs. As @Phil Pascoe said DAMHIK.

 

[clogs]

a jacobs chuck in the tail stock is OK but I prefer a collet chuck for the headstock....
on my lathes it can be used either end....
collet chucks dont have to be mad expensive.....the cheaper ones are good enough unless ur making clocks....
my collet chuck ER40 does double duty on the lathe and also fits the Bridgeport......
Jacobs chuks are not as good as they used to be.....a decent qual chuck is now nearly £100 for a reasonable size ......

 

[ChaiLatte]

A Jacob's type chuck without a drawbar in the headstock is a liability. It would not be, of course, if there were perpetual pressure against it, but there isn't. The same chuck in the tailstock isn't moving so unlikely to come loose

How does the fact that is rotating cause it to come loose? It is rotating the same in a drill press and gravity is pulling it downwards. Does the orientation matter? I would observe that the live centre in my headstock has no drawbar. The pronged woodturning centre I have has no drawbar.

If the same bench drill can be used as a Mill then the chuck can have side pressure applied and would then need a draw-bar to hold the Mt2 from coming out.

Please could you point me to any part of the original post that even hinted at the possibility of side pressure being applied or a milling operation being considered. Please also advise of a bench drill that has a hollow spindle suitable fo ra drawbar.

I think Phil Pascoe and Phill05 have answered your questions admirably on my behalf.

I do not believe they have. They have evaded the questions by trying to sneak in 'side loading'. Nor have you explained how you remove a drawbar-type arbor from a blind Morse socket in a drill press. So, simple 'yes' or 'no', is a tangless arbor suitable for a drill press or not?

 

[Phil Pascoe]

. Does the orientation matter? I would observe that the live centre in my headstock has no drawbar. The pronged woodturning centre I have has no drawbar.

They are much lighter than a Jacob's chuck. Believe me - if you've had one fly at you you won't take the chance again.

Curiosity - why do you use a live centre in the headstock?

 

[Linus]

How does the fact that is rotating cause it to come loose? It is rotating the same in a drill press and gravity is pulling it downwards. Does the orientation matter? I would observe that the live centre in my headstock has no drawbar. The pronged woodturning centre I have has no drawbar.



Please could you point me to any part of the original post that even hinted at the possibility of side pressure being applied or a milling operation being considered. Please also advise of a bench drill that has a hollow spindle suitable fo ra drawbar.



I do not believe they have. They have evaded the questions by trying to sneak in 'side loading'. Nor have you explained how you remove a drawbar-type arbor from a blind Morse socket in a drill press. So, simple 'yes' or 'no', is a tangless arbor suitable for a drill press or not?

Er yes, or no.

 

[Bob Chapman]

I think the two Phils have made correct comments about using a Jacobs chuck in a lathe headstock. It is quite possible provided there is additional support and pressure from the tailstock but without it the chuck will eventually work loose from the Morse taper in the headstock. The difference between a lathe and a drill press is that a drill in use always has pressure holding the chuck in the taper but a chuck in/on a lathe spindle doesn't unless the tailstock is brought into use. I write from experience.

 

[Richard_C]

Agree with need for drawbar if using in headstock. First, the drawbar unscrews from the chuck so you could use the chuck in a blind taper in a drill press. A chuck is fine in the tailstock of lathe because you are using it to drill, as others have said any load is pushing it in to the taper, any rotational load is around the centre line. If you use it in the headstock, powered, by definition there is a sideways, or at least eccentric, load acting along the taper so it might stay in or might, very very quickly, precess out. Quicker than you can hit the stop button.

What would you put it in the headstock for? Sanding or buffing wheel, you might think the only load is end on but its bound to be off centre so likely to cause it to fly out. Wire brush, the same. OK not ideal but those of us with limited facilities see a lathe as a powered spinny-thing that goes up to 3000 rpm so can be put to use for non-turning jobs. Holding very small diameter work for turning, bit unconventional, but will work but any sanding or use of tools will give sideways load. I can't imagine a headstock application where there wouldn't be a potential for a sideways load.

 

[Sachakins]

Have you ever tried a self driving spade bit in a chuck in a tailstock. The sudden bite of the self driving bit tip can rip the taper straight out of the tailstock.

It won't however fly out as, as the taper let's go, the self driving action stops, but the slapping of loose chuck and taper in tailstock is a sudden brown trouser moment.

Using a Jacobs chuck in headstock without a drawbar is a risk if your using it to hold small spindle stock without tailstock support, and you cut away from headstock, can put some side loading and perpendicular loading away from the headstock, and resulting in loosening taper lock and lauch a 2lb lump of steel projectile onto a collision cause with anything in its oath.

Even using Mt collet chucks, using a rdrawbar with it us always recommended and is also best practice anyway.

 

[JM83]

Cheers for all the replies, a lot to look over lol. I should have said in my op that I was looking for a drill chuck in the lathe to hollow out some projects like making tubes, and had only planned on using it in the tailstock. I hadn't thought about using a chuck for holding small pieces but I think after looking into that, if I want to do that in the future I will go for something with a drawbar or maybe a collet chuck.

I decided to bite the bullet and order the SIP B20-16, I'm guessing the chuck won't be the best and will need upgrading in the future but should be good enough for what I need atm.