Shaker Style Door design

[dchallender]

I'm just doing some drawings for a cupboard that eventually I will be building - the last welsh dresser I did took me 18mths!! :shock:

But i've been thinking about the doors - I was going to build these as standard rail and stile doors using a T&G router bit - very simple shaker design. However when you fit the inset panel do I have to leave a gap for expansion? and how big should it be compared to the expansion rate? as I was thinking of a pine / tulip wood frame 30mm think and then an MDF insert of 9mm - it will be painted (I can hide my mistakes then :lol: ) The reason for asking is that I have started to do some research on what this cupboard should look like and I have found people using all sorts of things to stop / reduce the movement of the inset panel by adding various things into the gap on the frame such as foam rubber, silicone, draught excluder, etc.

From what I can see they are using a compressible infill to reduce any excessive movement of the inset panel - is this normal though as I didn't think it was? :?

Any help greatly appreciated as always, I've promised myself that I will take photos of this one and get it on the forum

rgds

Darren

 

[chippy1970]

I have made a few using Mahogany and an MR/MDF 6mm panel and had no problems with expansion so far. I would be tempted to leave a little play and if the slot for the panel is tight enough it shouldnt need anything to stop it moving about.

If I make them totally out of MDF then I glue the panel in as well for extra strength as you dont need to worry about movement.

Heres my old post for you to see https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/view ... r&start=15

 

[dchallender]

That's really useful and exactly what I need in fact the thread is very similar to what ultimately I will be doing in terms if the kitchen

thanks

Darren

 

[Tim Nott]

MDF shouldn't expand, and you can glue it all round. The doors and panels on the home page of our web site are all MDF(25mm thick frame, 10mm panel), with a groove around 12mm deep to take the panel and 'tenons' in the top and bottom rails. Worked a treat.

 

[WellsWood]

I'm with Tim on this one. The traditional method of leaving panels unglued (except a dab in the middle of the top and bottom to hold it central) is to allow the panel to move, not the frame. Shrinkage across the large cross grain dimension in a solid timber panel can cause problems, but if you're using mdf this won't (shouldn't) be an issue.

 

[RobertMP]

I cheated

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/view ... hp?t=26388

Still look good. No joint lines showing.

 

[dchallender]

I looked through your thread - the kitchen looks great!! I also really like the floor level drawers as well I've not seen them before.

I think from the posts I will glue the parts in as they will definitely be mdf and they would be a bit more solid

 

[chippy1970]

I cheated

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/view ... hp?t=26388

Still look good. No joint lines showing.

Thats exactly how i used to make doors back when i was still an apprentice , when i did my private jobs. It was ok but the door edges always give it away that you have cheated no matter how well you do it.

 

[RobertMP]

It was ok but the door edges always give it away that you have cheated no matter how well you do it.

well you just sent me back into the kitchen to check I understand what you are referring to but there is no lamination line visible on any door edge. All the edges look like 18mm thick board and are as smooth as the faces. I do remember being able to see something at primer and maybe undercoat stages but rubbing down took that out and nothing shows now.

I've just made some bathroom cabinet doors and bath panel in MR MDF of a similar style and the edges of those doors look good too. Did you use the green MR stuff or std MDF?