setting up my planes - I've discovered I don't know anything

[nicksmith]

Hello,

I have a rather lovely-looking Tischler Workeug ECE (Primus) jointing plane that's 39.5cm long and also a Record No.4 smoothing plane (+ others).

I would like to get the best out of them and would really appreciate some advice on properly setting them up. I've been using them for a number of years but have always guessed with them.

I'd like to avoid the use of abrasives finishing and I'm wondering whether, if properly set-up, the Record is up to it. APTC claim great things for their Japanese polishing plane - it's a bit small though.

I really want to make a good job of my finishes, so any advice re. my planes and setting them would be much appreciated. (My Primus doesn't really have an 'additional bevel' (I hope you know what I mean) - I think it ought to have one!!! (It used to but I ground into it)! I'd especially appreciate some advice on honing and grinding angles.

BTW I do use scrapers and manage ok with them - they're simpler - or so it would seem!


You can tell I'm confused can't you!

Thanks, Nick

 

[mahking51]

Oh Boy, are you ever in the right place!
Stand by to be deluged with advice, links, assaults on your bank account, the works! :lol: :lol:
Seriously, all the help you need will be right along I'm sure.
Welcome to the forum.
Martin

 

[MikeW]

Yep, keep a firm grasp on the wallet...

The era the Record was made could be a slight issue in so far as how much work it may or may not need to be a fine smoother. And there is the issue of what woods you are working in. That said, the following links are actually to web-based knowledge banks concerning hand tools.

At these links are articles for making the Record be the best plane it can. I personally would make it the best plane possible before buying another plane. Also, I don't know what the polishing plane is you refer to, but below is also a plane just used for what I call polishing. Grain direction doesn't matter. It can take such a fine shaving, is bedded at 50 degrees and has a thick iron [probably like the Japanese plane you mention].

Here are the links:

Cian Perez's site

Rob Weber's site

Both have some overlap and include more tools and techniques than just planes. These sites are where I turn first.

Here's is my little polishing plane. Probably less appealing looking than the Japanese plane. It's 7.5" long iirc. Where as it is the last plane I use on a surface, it's not the one I use to get there. It is incapable of taking more than a .001" shaving.

Take care, Mike

 

[Scrit]

Nick

Depending on age, etc the Record is probably eminently tuneable. But later Record blades aren't up to much so a Clifton or one of Ray Iles's blades would probably be the next stage after fettling - and you're not far from either where you live! As for the Primus its just a case of sharpening and honing. The double bevel is nice but it's only really there to make honing a bit quicker.

Scrit

 

[JesseM]

I have one of those monstrous primus jointers as well as a number of other primus planes. I by no means understand this tool completely, but aside from the obvious settings I think you can set the mouth via a combination of the the rear adjustment knob and the blade depth knob. I'll admit to not having experimented with it much. Having a narrow mouth produces a finer shaving.

One thing that has me confused is that the chip breaker has 2 screws that hold the blade to the chip breaker. It seems that the screw closest to the blade actually bends the chip breaker in. I just don't why or if its important. I mean its got an extra screw so it must have some function right?

Hows that for confusing advice.

 

[Matt1245]

I've discovered I don't know anything

Me too :lol:

It's fun learning tho.

Matt.

 

[engineer one]

i think every body will give you a different opinion, but it is interesting that
you have been using the planes for years and are only now questioning, seems you must have been doing things right.

i have just sharpened the blade for a wooden plane "a nooitgedagt"
with no chipbreaker. i flattened the back on a water stone, then sharpened on the tormek. then i did as others have suggested, placed the plane flat on the surface of my worktable, let the blade into the slot, and pushed in the wedge. then a small tap with the mallet, gets nice thin shavings.

i think the primus is much more sophisticated, but i have found recently that the most effective way to go with any plane is place the body flat on the bench, and then lower the blade along the frog until it touches the table.

then remove the backlash on the adjusting screw, and just give it a quarter turn down. that seems to have given me really thin shavings,
and a smooth polished surface.

as for the record, do an andy king, make sure the base is flat in the important places. front rear and around the mouth. then get a better blade.
clifton or the victor seem pretty good. then smooth back of blade and make sure chipbreaker is flat on the blade. then just sharpen the blade as normal, and go for it. it really does work. smaller shavings are definitely the way to go.

all the best
paul :wink:

 

[Alf]

Nick, dunno about the ECE, but for tuning metal planes to the nth degree, David Charlesworth is your man. Probably Vol 1 of his books, I think? Other than that, Mike's scooped all the online stuff.

Cheers, Alf