I fitted this system to my Elektra Beckum swapping blades takes 2 mins and they are really good blades.
http://www.advancedmachinery.co.uk/mach ... s-1455-382
Jim
http://www.advancedmachinery.co.uk/mach ... s-1455-382
Jim
Setting planer knives - a minor victory
- Thread starter YorkshireMartin
- Start date
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I will scan the manual page tonight and post.
I would use the stick setup if the outfeed table is setup correctly. This is the reason I am trying to reference the blades to the cutter head and then be able to set the outfeed table correctly with the stick method, then finally the infeed to be co-planar to the outfeed. In my head it makes sense, don't know if it is the proper way.
The Axminster AW106PT2 had this tool but unfortunately mine didn't. My version is a nameless machine. I scoured even the insides of the machine, motor assembly, everywhere. If there ever was a name on it, there isn't now. The manual too doesn't have any reference to manufacturer or name.
I would use the stick setup if the outfeed table is setup correctly. This is the reason I am trying to reference the blades to the cutter head and then be able to set the outfeed table correctly with the stick method, then finally the infeed to be co-planar to the outfeed. In my head it makes sense, don't know if it is the proper way.
The Axminster AW106PT2 had this tool but unfortunately mine didn't. My version is a nameless machine. I scoured even the insides of the machine, motor assembly, everywhere. If there ever was a name on it, there isn't now. The manual too doesn't have any reference to manufacturer or name.
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Jacob
What goes around comes around.
My Minimax planer blades are easy to set with the aid of a clever jig which came with the machine. It holds the blade down in exactly the right position as you tighten the two outer bolts to hold it. Then you lift it off and tighten all the others.
Prior to that I was used to the zero bed adjustment plus ruler - where the right lift of the blade will move the ruler by a few mm when you turn the block by hand.
(PS this is the stick method as described above by Heimlaga)
Worst option is the engineers approach - dial gauges etc.
PS just read r0nmlt's post above. My jig the same - ali casting about 8" long so you can hold the whole blade down precisely with one hand and still have access to the bolts at each end. The profile is just at the ends - not the whole length - it's an open frame.
Prior to that I was used to the zero bed adjustment plus ruler - where the right lift of the blade will move the ruler by a few mm when you turn the block by hand.
(PS this is the stick method as described above by Heimlaga)
Worst option is the engineers approach - dial gauges etc.
PS just read r0nmlt's post above. My jig the same - ali casting about 8" long so you can hold the whole blade down precisely with one hand and still have access to the bolts at each end. The profile is just at the ends - not the whole length - it's an open frame.
Would something like this be an option http://www.axminster.co.uk/planer-blade ... jig-700360 I'll go against the grain and say I found it easier using this, than the stick method. The joy of it is it holds the blade at exactly the same repeatable height, until you pinch the bolts up tight.r0nmlt":3itwgfdu said:
Coley
The problem with these jigs, although they look very precise, is the strong springs that push up the blades. It requires a bit of effort to push down the blades really low into the cutter head. I cut an arc of MDF with a 75mm diameter to sit on the blades and push them down as I tighten the screws. It works but not sure if the blades are actually parallel to the cutter head or not. There is no consensus on how high the knives should be from the cutter head. Nonetheless i found out that anything in excess of 1.5mm will make the blades hit the outfeed table.
Jacob
What goes around comes around.
MDF too soft for the jig. Mines aluminium. Soft enough not to blunt the blade at the two contact points. And it's effectively two jigs 8" apart so the blades are bound to be parallel to the block.r0nmlt":26dqc0yt said:
Works very well.
yes I presume the proper material is aluminium but i have no way of doing that. So i tried with MDF and failed as the knifes dig into the MDF.
The manual states 0.7-0.8mm recommended with 1.1mm MAX. Whilst experimenting and measuring with the depth guage of a micrometer, i realised that anything above 1.5mm will hit the outfeed table so notwithstanding other machines being able of having even up to 3mm knife protrusion above cutterhead, mine is not able to have that kind of protrusion.
I thought of taking the springs out as that will help a lot. But I still have to figure a method of measuring the height of the blades.
The manual states 0.7-0.8mm recommended with 1.1mm MAX. Whilst experimenting and measuring with the depth guage of a micrometer, i realised that anything above 1.5mm will hit the outfeed table so notwithstanding other machines being able of having even up to 3mm knife protrusion above cutterhead, mine is not able to have that kind of protrusion.
I thought of taking the springs out as that will help a lot. But I still have to figure a method of measuring the height of the blades.
If you don't want to get a jig like the link I added, your choices are somewhat limited. Have your out feed table 1mm higher than the cutter block then use the wood method. You could easily use a 1mm shim to make sure the gaps right between the outfeed table and cutter block !
Coley
Coley
This is the front page of the manual:
And this is the part it says what the height should be:
I think that if I don't manage with the dial indicator, that magnetic jig together with the removal of the springs will have to do it.
Sent from my GT-I9515 using Tapatalk
And this is the part it says what the height should be:
I think that if I don't manage with the dial indicator, that magnetic jig together with the removal of the springs will have to do it.
Sent from my GT-I9515 using Tapatalk
