seperating morse taper

[Robbo3]

Looking at the exploded parts diagram, page 24, it seems that your model has a sleeve with a solid spindle running top to bottom through the middle whereas the other models have a thicker spindle with the provision to use a drift for chuck removal.
If that's the case, then it looks like chuck removal wedges that I linked to in my previous post.

 

[sunnybob]

The manual lists the floor mounted drill, with the larger chuck, which (apparently) has the required slot. The bench mounted 13 mm chuck that I have? nah.
Seikens adaptation is a last resort, mainly because if I'm going to break the damn thing i'm going to build something sufficiently solid as to have NO give.

I'll update this with axminsters reply as and when.

 

[Robbo3]

The manual lists 5 models :
AHDP13B Code 101925
AHDP16B Code 101926
AHDP16F Code 101927
AHRD16B Code 101928
AHRD16F Code 101929

It wasn't until I looked at the exploded diagrams that I noticed your one was different from the rest.

 

[sunnybob]

stupid, isnt it?

The sheer cost of tooling up for 5 seperate non interchangeable machines must be more than the cost savings on producing the smaller models.

 

[Seiken]

I agree if you're keeping the drill it will be worth making something with no give in it. I went into Axminster a couple of months ago and had a look at the drill presses, the model you've got looked like it had the same moulding as my Challenge, the Axi AHDP16B which is the next one up has a positive depth stop and a rack an pinion on the table. I'm just waiting for an excuse to buy it now, the belt is starting to fray on mine so as soon as it gets too bad that will be it.

 

[sunnybob]

Be warned, I had several serious issues with mine. I'm able to sort them due to a lifetime of working with machinery.
having sorted the problems (apart from this latest), its a lot better than what I had previously. In hindsight, i would go for the one with the racking table.

 

[SteveF]

I have the reverse issue on my drill sadly
I have the short stubby taper on my drill (an old one)
i cannot get the chuck to stay in place..damn thing keeps falling off

Steve

 

[CHJ]

I have the reverse issue on my drill sadly
I have the short stubby taper on my drill (an old one)
i cannot get the chuck to stay in place..damn thing keeps falling off

Steve

A couple of things to try.
Try lapping the two together with abrasive, fine valve lapping paste for instance and see if this improves the joint grip. Only downside is that resultant taper will be a mating pair not true to standard.
Alternate use some medium C A glue or thread locking to see if it will bond it in.

Obviously thoroughly clean surfaces before trying final fit.

 

[Rorschach]

I have the reverse issue on my drill sadly
I have the short stubby taper on my drill (an old one)
i cannot get the chuck to stay in place..damn thing keeps falling off

Steve

Thoroughly clean both parts. Put the taper in the freezer for a few hours, warm the female part with a blowtorch until too hot to touch, put them together with a sharp whack from a mallet, you won't have anymore problems.

 

[SteveF]

not to steal Sunny's thread too much but
my taper is in quill and not sure I can remove (my drill has a nut above the taper, to remove the chuck)
the female part would be the chuck and not fancy heating

Steve

 

[sunnybob]

Steve, thoroughly clean both pieces with white spirit or isopropanol if available. taper fit parts have to be spotlessly clean and free from grease.

 

[Rorschach]

not to steal Sunny's thread too much but
my taper is in quill and not sure I can remove (my drill has a nut above the taper, to remove the chuck)
the female part would be the chuck and not fancy heating

Steve

Wrap the quill in some ice or use a can of "canned air" used upside down to chill the quill. Heating the chuck will not cause any problems, I am not talking about glowing here, just getting it hot, maybe 100C or so. Hot enough you need a glove to hold it but not much more.

 

[sunnybob]

heres axminsters considered reply.

"Our specialist team say due to this being a light Hobby unit it is not designed to be removed. We have had a look at ours are of the opinion that if you were to remove the depth stop and Chuck guard you could use a chuck wedge".

3 points arise.
1/ if I could remove the depth stop I wouldnt need to remove the chuck.
2/ There is NO set procedure for removing the chuck????
3/ Just as well because Axminster doesnt sell the wedges anyway.

Sigh......

Shant bother Keith as with the chuck in place any ring modification is a non starter, i'll just cut of the plastic garbage and make a metal unit. I'll swap sides at the same time as I think its weird having the depth stop measurements on the left when youre pulling the handle on the right.

 

[Seiken]

Be warned, I had several serious issues with mine. I'm able to sort them due to a lifetime of working with machinery.
having sorted the problems (apart from this latest), its a lot better than what I had previously. In hindsight, i would go for the one with the racking table.

Sunnybob,
What sort of problems did you have , I can fix most problems I come across but no longer have access to a metalworking lathe or mill. Thanks.

 

[MusicMan]

Sunnybob

Looks as if it will get out with wedges, but your choice! No problem

Keith

 

[sunnybob]

seiken, i had the kind of problems you REALLY shouldnt have with a brand new machine.But dont panic too much as I also do not have metal working lathes or mills at my disposal anymore.
heres the tale of anger and woe;
i-m-not-appy-t106168.html

I have complained in writing to axminster. I truly believe that not enough people make their concerns felt to high enough people about the shocking standards of woodworking machinery. With all the posts on here about problems, how many actually let the shop manager / company directors know about them?

Keith,,,,,, attempted to remove the flexible plastic ring yesterday. Guess what? its not THAT flexible.
For something that can flex in the direction its not supposed to, I couldnt even prise it open enough to come away from a 1/2" shaft without it splitting in two. That solves the "adaptation" problem. Now I can just make a new unit altogether from a piece of 10 mm steel. Lets see THAT one flex!

 

[Seiken]

Thanks for the info Sunnybob, I'm only 1/2 hour from Axis Basingstoke depot so its not too far to go and shake them in person.

 

[sunnybob]

Simon the manager at basingstoke is the poor unlucky man who has to put up with all my moaning.
I think it would be best if you DONT mention my name when you go there. (lol)
All joking aside. He tries damn hard to sort out problems.

 

[SteveF]

well i hope you have more luck than me
my drill has always had a bit of runout
but I refit chuck and it was horrendous
quill seem to be ok..no slop
turns out my shaft is way out........0.74mm runout
seems I will be looking for a new drill

Steve