Semi-cylinder cut in dowel

[AdWaGh]

I’d like to make some simple but modern looking curtain poles for all the windows in our house. I’ve seen these one but can’t think how I could accurately make the semi-cylinder shape in the bracket dowel to hold the curtain rail dowel.

I’m thinking a forstner drill bit and a jig would probably do it but that doesn’t seem like the way to do it properly and neatly.

Any one know the answer or can point to a resource? I’m proud of the built-in wardrobes I’ve just finished but for all intents and purposes I’m a novice.

 

[ChaiLatte]

I’ve seen these one...

I may be over-reading, but that seems to suggest you are referring to a photograph that for some reason has not been included in your post.

What is possible now depends greatly on what your material looks like now. If it is a large lump of wood, drill a hole in it and remove everything surrounding that hole such that only half of it remains.

If the parts are finished-turned with circular symmetry looking square to the wall, are they parallel or tapered? Tapered makes the job more difficult. Perhaps mounting the item to a ridgid block, coping saw out the bulk and then use a bobbin sander with a jig/fence to finish the shape.

The difficulty of the task can vary greatly depending on where you do it in the production process.

 

[AdWaGh]

I may be over-reading, but that seems to suggest you are referring to a photograph that for some reason has not been included in your post.

What is possible now depends greatly on what your material looks like now. If it is a large lump of wood, drill a hole in it and remove everything surrounding that hole such that only half of it remains.

If the parts are finished-turned with circular symmetry looking square to the wall, are they parallel or tapered? Tapered makes the job more difficult. Perhaps mounting the item to a ridgid block, coping saw out the bulk and then use a bobbin sander with a jig/fence to finish the shape.

The difficulty of the task can vary greatly depending on where you do it in the production process.

Apologies I thought the link and an image had been included. They should be available now.

I will buy the hardwood dowels as shown in the image but I want to achieve the semi-cylinder cut out on the wall bracket bit of dowel.

https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/864...3elzE2x7IcAUwgL5o6lbXWiQPIv2Z0BRoCzH0QAvD_BwE

 

[Bingy man]

A picture paints a thousand words - welcome to ukw

 

[MikeB1972]

Assuming you mean to end up with something like this.

Easiest way is to simply rasp/file it out.

Or take a block of wood and drill a hole in it for the dowel.
Then drill the hole in the block of wood (With the dowel in) so you can get it in the right space without the dowel spinning away.
So, basically like this, but with a bigger drill bit

 

[Amplidyne]

As already said: pics.
Not really sure what you want to do. Welcome to UKW

 

[ChaiLatte]

Apologies I thought the link and an image had been included. They should be available now.

There seem to be some space-time discontinuities here. Your post has a time of 10:23 but was not visible around 1400, but is now (1620).

As above, post by MikeB1972, make a jig. In the one pictured, the axis of the piece and the axis of the hole intersect, but for your requirement, they would be offset.

If you did not happen to have a drill bit the same size as the dowel, go the next size down.

Then sand down an offcut of dowel such that when you stick sandpaper to it, the grit is the same diameter as the original dowel. You can use that to fine tune the cut out to the correct diameter. If you stick sandpaper to an unreduced dowel, it will sand too big.

The challenge is in the first picture in his post - how do you ensure that the notch is at the top when the woodscrew is tight into the wall? Every one I make, the notch is at 6 o'clock when it goes tight. I had to put an acrow prop across the room and push the wall out a bit so I could get the extra half a turn.

 

[Richard_C]

MikeB's solution looks very good. Thinking of other ways,

I wonder if you could clamp 2 pieces of dowel together, really well clamped at both ends, and run a forstner bit through centred where they join. Because there is nothing for the centre of the bit to go into when you start (apart from thin air) you need a pillar drill, a firm hand and good luck. It would be dead easy if you were happy with square or rectangular section bracket with a round pole sitting in it. Clamp 2 together and drill on the middle line.

Which raises another question - what tools do you have available? Hand tools only, pillar drill, bandsaw, lathe ...???

(If I were making them I would start with a piece of (say) 40x80 mm, drill a big hole, cut through the middle to end up with 2 pieces 40x40 (less the kerf) with half a hole in each and turn them - but I have all 3 of the tools I mentioned)

BUT BUT BUT - the design seems fairly weak below where the curtain pole sits. I would be happy with them on light bedroom curtains, but for the full height 2m long insulated lined living room ones I would thing carefully - of course it will support the static weight but imgine a clumsy impatient teenager pulling the curtains. Before you work out how to make it, decide if it really is the right answer.

 

[John Brown]

For me, it would look better if the support were square, rather than cylindrical.
Stronger, easier to make as well.
But I realise I may have bad taste...

 

[Richard_C]

For me, it would look better if the support were square, rather than cylindrical.

Lots of arts and crafts stuff was square or rectangular, often chamfered on all 4 edges. and if rectangular it was 'long side vertical' so it was strong. I think thats' where I woul'd start but of course we don't know the context or overall look of the room/house. I guess we are guilty of suggesting a redesign instead of answering the 'how to make' question which has a good idea from MikeB already.

 

[John Brown]

Lots of arts and crafts stuff was square or rectangular, often chamfered on all 4 edges. and if rectangular it was 'long side vertical' so it was strong. I think thats' where I woul'd start but of course we don't know the context or overall look of the room/house. I guess we are guilty of suggesting a redesign instead of answering the 'how to make' question which has a good idea from MikeB already.

I agree that MikeB's suggested method is a good one, and I was going to suggest it myself, but he got there first.