Self levelling compound & heavy tools

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Engineeruk

Member
Joined
17 Aug 2018
Messages
10
Reaction score
0
Location
London
Hi all,

Has anyone had any issues with self levelling compound cracking or degrading when supporting heavy tools?

I’m looking to resurface my concrete floor to allow castors to roll more smoothly. I have some bostik Cempolay to hand that I’d like to use, but I see they also produce “heavy duty” versions so I’m wary that it might be inadequate for the forces applied (think stationary metal lathe, bandsaw rolling on castors).

Thanks for any advice!
 
Most self levellers I have used say that they are not a wearing surface and my experience is that they would not take heavy loads. I have used one that said it was suitable as a finished surface and I walked on it for a few months with no damage but I then put a laminate on top. I can't remember the name of the one I used but it was stocked by Toolstation and I think it contained latex. If you find one that may be suitable call the manufacturers they are normally happy to provide advice.

As levelers are normally laid quite thinly I suspect that putting heavy point loads on them may not work well.

Can you hire some thing that will grind down the irregularities on your existing floor?
 
Thanks both - that raises an interesting question; is the failure mode of levelling compound due to abrasion or cracking?

I.e if I were to paint over the compound with an epoxy, would that solve my problem?

Concrete grinding is a good suggestion - definitely will be my next solution if the compound is no-go.
 
Check the compressive strength of the screed, they all state what it is usually in KPa. You can get screed with up to 700KPa for truly industrial applications. Most epoxy paint / flooring hates screeds based on calcium sulphate. So avoid that.
 
Check the compressive strength of the screed, they all state what it is usually in KPa. You can get screed with up to 700KPa for truly industrial applications. Most epoxy paint / flooring hates screeds based on calcium sulphate. So avoid that.
Thanks for the heads up on this - I didn’t realise they provided those numbers.

It looks like Cempolay is 16Mpa, and the bostik “very heavy duty” achieves 40Mpa.

It depends on the contact patch of a castor - but on the basis of a back of the envelope calc I think 16Mpa should be just about sufficient. (On 4 castors with a combined 500mm^2 contact patch gives a max tool weight of 815kg)

That said - it is close, particularly if my castor contact patch assumptions are incorrect, or the castors are loaded unequally/dynamically…
 
...and the Bostik “very heavy duty” achieves 40Mpa.

...in a laboratory under ideal mixing, laying and curing conditions.

Thirty seconds in to concrete 101 at college, the instructor told us about 'labcrete' and 'sitecrete'.

If the slab has been there a while, hiring a diamond grinder and extractor will be a much better long term solution.
 
...in a laboratory under ideal mixing, laying and curing conditions.

Thirty seconds in to concrete 101 at college, the instructor told us about 'labcrete' and 'sitecrete'.

If the slab has been there a while, hiring a diamond grinder and extractor will be a much better long term solution.
Fair point - and one that reduces my confidence in the 16Mpa product, given it was quite marginal already.

That said, I think concrete itself sits around 20-40Mpa so would think the heavy duty stuff should be comparable with grinding the slab?
 
...so would think the heavy duty stuff should be comparable with grinding the slab?

Maybe buy one bag, prepare, mix, apply and cure as the instructions and then give it an accelerated torture test to see how it holds up. It would be a shame to do the whole floor and it fail after three months.
 
Ring Mapei, they will tell you which to use.

I have previously diamond grinded the lumps and high spots off my concrete garage floor. Its surprisingly hard work, hiring a dust extractor that can handle the output a must (don't be tempted to use your shop vac, you'll destroy it), and be prepared for a significant bill for the wear on the diamonds. I'm glad I did it but never want to do it again.

Mark
 
I’ve been research this subject recently as I have a whole floor to put down in my workshop. My understanding is that in general a none wearing surface is friable and will break up when excessive twisting load is placed upon it.
 
Ring Ball and co technical support. They are very helpful. Some compounds will take fork truck traffic.
 
Last edited:
Possibly a bit off topic - I have used self levelling compound indoors prior to tile laying. Found it great for this task but do wonder if its laid thin in some areas it will crack like brittle toffee and probably will if you accidently dropped a club hammer onto the floor
Do a test as suggested above
 
I laid Screwfix's SLC in my workshop. It has a little flex, and I've just left it as the wearing layer. It hasn't been abused too much over the past (3?) years, but isn't showing any dings or cracks yet.
 
Back
Top