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chaoticbob

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I've rescued several good straight logs of cherry , about three foot long each and seven inchish diameter from the firewood pile. They've been left outside ,subject to all weather, for two years or more. All I actually want from them is some 2x3 chunks about 12" long, but they do need to be stable. I'm not sure how to go ahead, other than having ordered up some paraffin wax. Any advice?
Rob
 
You don't need paraffin wax - old paint, varnish, PVA - just about anything semi permeable would do. Afaik cherry splits quite badly, so it may be wise as they are small pieces to convert it quickly, to avoid undue shakes.
 
Thanks Phil. I have sawn the logs down into billets about 4 inches square by a yard or so long, and sealed the endgrain with paraffin wax - I'd ordered it before I saw your reply and thought I may as well use it. Though from what you say maybe PVA would have be better, as more 'breathable'.
Given the logs had been lying in an uncovered woodpile for maybe 18-24 months how long do you reckon they need to be left before I can size them down to stable 3x2x12 inch blocks? If it's years that's OK, I'm not in hurry! Or would I be better off (over)sizing now, sealing and storing for perhaps a shorter time?
Apologies for what is perhaps a naive question, but one must start somewhere !
Regards, Rob
 
I think you'd be better reducing the size right away (to a little oversize for sure).

It is quite likely that cracks will already have developed. It's a good idea to work with the wood, and make the first cut along a crack. I was recently able to cleave a fairly flat surface along a long of cherry that had been similarly left, and the resulting wood is pretty stable now.

Then seal the ends and store, with air circulating around.
 
The general rule of thumb for air drying is 1 year per inch of thickness plus a year.....that's when cut and drying in stick ie on sticks allowing air to circulate right round the log, outside but typically under a roof of some form. Your 2 years outside in log form will have some bearing but you need to get them cut oversize and sealed and in stick and then start going at them with a moisture meter on a freshly cut surface every 6 months or so.
 
Thanks both - exactly the sort info I was after. At the moment the billets are showing 25 -28% on the moisture meter on the freshly sawn surface. I seem to remember having read somewhere that I need to get that down to 12% or so before it will be stable. Does that make sense?
Rob
 
It does....and for indoor (furniture) type use.....8% or close is normal ie when ending up in a centrally heated environment. Bear in mind that during the drying process you're going to get some shakes, twist, lumps and bumps so cut them oversize assuming you'll plane and thickness back to desired size. Many people under estimate how much waste there is in this process, for example, 25mm sawn thickness will usually yield 18-19mm finished (planed) thickness.
 
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