sealing vase to hold water

[nanscombe]

What do they make the likes of fibreglass pond liners and boats out of?

Could that sort of resin be used to coat the inside.

Maybe just make a fibreglass tube to go inside to hold the water.

 

[CHJ]

What do they make the likes of fibreglass pond liners and boats out of?

Could that sort of resin be used to coat the inside.

Maybe just make a fibreglass tube to go inside to hold the water.

Obviously it could, but practical, cost effective? I very much doubt it even in a production environment let alone a home/hobby workshop.

And if you give them to a friend or worst case sell them can you guarantee that every one is and will remain 100% waterproof?

Can you imagine that communication, "You told me it was waterproof, what are you going to do about sorting out the water mark on my French polished sideboard?"

And yes someone will not bother to put it on a water resistant base or move it to one side for a minute and forget it.

 

[Jacob]

What do they make the likes of fibreglass pond liners and boats out of?

Could that sort of resin be used to coat the inside.

Maybe just make a fibreglass tube to go inside to hold the water.

Or better still a solid glass tube. An old jam jar, a drinking glass, a bottle, a test tube, etc.
Perhaps better to choose the glass first and make the turning to fit.
There doesn't seem to be much point in trying to make the wood itself water tight.

Mind you when I was in hospital we had these cardboard p|ssbottles - I should have looked closer to see what the secret was. I wasn't in the right frame of mind. :roll:

 

[Paul Hannaby]

+1 for Rustins plastic coating. A few coats of that will be waterproof.

I have also seen treatex and tested it myself and it does leave the surface of the wood waterproof but for how long is anyone's guess!

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Mind you when I was in hospital we had these cardboard p|ssbottles - I should have looked closer to see what the secret was. I wasn't in the right frame of mind. :roll:[/quote]

And if they're left overnight they leak like baskets. Damhikt.

 

[Doug B]

Chas, i believe Mark did quite a lot of testing with Treatex, he certainly used to fill one vessel with coke & one with coffee to show how the treated surface wasn't affected by either & also had one piece that had had several cycles in a dishwasher.
I can't remember all he said about Treatex but would suggest to the original poster that he buys some & does his own research particularly as the manufacturers don't make the claims for it that Mark did. Personally I would do this regardless of what anyone suggested if I was making such items for my own piece of mind.


Edit
A link to Marks page.
http://www.markrabywoodfinishing.co.uk/treetex

Taken from that page


"This product is manufactured on a base of natural sustainable raw materials: jojoba oil, linseed oil, sunflower oil, beeswax, candellia wax and carnauba wax. Complies with regulation DIN68861-1B. Resistance to water, wine, beer, coffee, tea, fizzy drinks, etc. Toy safe DIN EN 71-3. Certified anti-bacterial to standard JIS Z2801-2000. Meets with VOC emissions. This product is easy to apply and is a must for turners, carvers, furniture manufacturers and anyone who wants to protect wood against spills, splashes, and all manner of other ingressions. Put live flowers in a vase, floating candles in a platter, coke, coffee in a goblet. Tested by our team with 100% positive feedback. Available in gloss, satin and matte, we recommend thinning by 10% with Treatex Thinner (isoparaffin). Coverage per 100ml approx. 2m2. Supplied with instruction and safety data leaflet."

I imagine the part up to the "Put live flowers" is the manufacturers blurb & what is said after is based on his own experiences. For £8 it's got to be worth a punt to find out as if it is as good as he said if you're going to be making a number of vases.

 

[CHJ]

Well he certainly had confidence in it Doug, as you say personal tests with whatever species of wood you intend to use would be the sensible approach, note he said diluted, presume to get a deeper penetration of the product in the first instance.

I'm afraid I would not stick my neck out with such a claim for any item of mine entering the commercial market.

 

[ColeyS1]

Didn't treatex use to have an exterior product once upon a time ? I'm sure I used it on a few jobs but think it got pulled for one reason or another :?

 

[Jacob]

Well he certainly had confidence in it Doug, as you say personal tests with whatever species of wood you intend to use would be the sensible approach, note he said diluted, presume to get a deeper penetration of the product in the first instance.

I'm afraid I would not stick my neck out with such a claim for any item of mine entering the commercial market.

No doubt it will work in the short term but I'm certain it would fail with time.

 

[yorkshirepudding]

"I'm afraid I would not stick my neck out with such a claim for any item of mine entering the commercial market.
No doubt it will work in the short term but I'm certain it would fail with time."

As will we all. The answer I think is to suck it and see.

 

[Bodrighy]

I use Rustins for sealing goblets for use but would not recommend it for vases which would need to hold the water for a prolonged length of time. I full my goblets with water and leave for 24 hours to ensure that they are liquid proof but beyond that I wouldn't like to guarantee. ordinairy lacquers can leak as will oil and as Chas said the result is rarely pretty. If I want to make vases I use appropriate sized glass vessels, test tubes are good for small ones for example.

pete

 

[nicguthrie]

I've a friend who's also a boating buff and very accomplished woodworker, he's always using, and recommending for use, West System Marine Epoxy.

It's a two part system that can be used with glass fibres for making custom fibreglass sheets, with filler granules as a filling compound, or as a paint fit totally waterproofing wood.

He uses it for repairs on his boat (he lived on it for years - it definitely doesn't leak!) And coats anything exposed to the water regularly with it. His rudder is ply and epoxy coating.

It'll make your turned goods waterproof, for sure, but it's not cheap, and like all epoxies it can be a pest to learn to work with, sticky, limited mixed usage time, etc.

For inner surfaces on large pots and vases, you could actually include a thin mat of fibreglass, moulded to the shape, to be certain that the expansion of the wood etc doesn't ever lead to weakening the epoxy.

All the best.

Nic.

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

 

[Jacob]

I've a friend who's also a boating buff and very accomplished woodworker, he's always using, and recommending for use, West System Marine Epoxy.

It's a two part system that can be used with glass fibres for making custom fibreglass sheets, with filler granules as a filling compound, or as a paint fit totally waterproofing wood.

He uses it for repairs on his boat (he lived on it for years - it definitely doesn't leak!) And coats anything exposed to the water regularly with it. His rudder is ply and epoxy coating.

It'll make your turned goods waterproof, for sure, but it's not cheap, and like all epoxies it can be a pest to learn to work with, sticky, limited mixed usage time, etc.

For inner surfaces on large pots and vases, you could actually include a thin mat of fibreglass, moulded to the shape, to be certain that the expansion of the wood etc doesn't ever lead to weakening the epoxy.

All the best.

Nic.

Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

That amounts to making a fibreglass container within a wooden one. Simpler to drop in a ready-made glass one (or plastic , stainless steel, pot, etc) if you can find one to fit, or turn the vase to fit one.

 

[nicguthrie]

That amounts to making a fibreglass container within a wooden one. Simpler to drop in a ready-made glass one (or plastic , stainless steel, pot, etc) if you can find one to fit, or turn the vase to fit one.

I realize that Jacob, but I really don't think it'd be necessary to go that far, I just suggested the fiberglass as the "Ultimate Option".

I'm pretty sure that the epoxy used as several good coats of paint would do the trick - I was just pointing out that he's got the ability to reinforce it, should he want to be super careful. Also, this is about vases he's already turned, so his options for re-shaping it to fit something he can find may be very limited. If they're really large decorative vases (I don't recall him giving dimensions) he might want the extra security against eventual scoring of the epoxy by algae and bacterial growth in the water.

I've never been a fan of inner linings that can be removed when there's another option, as there's almost always some leakage between seals, especially if a third party doesn't realize, and treats the whole thing as one unit, filling it at a tap or emptying it out etc. or even forgetting it altogether!

In the end, each to their own, I just thought it might be useful for someone on here to know of the stuff. My friend is an old school furniture maker and worked fitting out expensive yachts for a few years, so he's full of fantastic tips, but somewhat allergic to the internet!

Nic.