SDS drills and drill bits... and chisels

[WoodYewToo]

Never owned an SDS drill - but now considering getting one. I'm looking for a general purpose machine for chipping plaster off internal walls... removing ceramic tiles from internal walls... removing small-ish areas of render off external walls... plus the odd bit of drilling holes for pipes to pass through walls... maybe a bit of concrete removal from external floor/hardstanding/path (very small areas - not drilling up an entire car parking space!)

Done a bit of research and the Makita DHR242 (link: https://www.makitauk.com/product/dhr242.html) looks like a decent machine for my use (not too heavy, reasonable power... and I already have a few Makita batteries).

Any advice / comments etc would be welcome.
Any features to look for or avoid?
Any experience of that particular Makita model?

Is SDS + the right level of machine for a busy-ish DIYer? Seems to be better than ordinary SDS... and more appropriate than SDS-Max (which looks more suited to pro use)??

The corded cheap model at Screwfix looks to be great value (Titan??) - but I've ruled it out on the basis of its weight.

Also any advice on a starter set of drills and chisels? This 17-piece set from Makita looks decent value when on offer at Amazon... https://www.makitauk.com/product/d-21200.html

Many thanks.

 

[robgul]

I wouldn't have a cordless SDS - I don't think they can match the power of corded.

 

[rob1693]

I wouldn't have a cordless SDS - I don't think they can match the power of corded.

You'd be surprised, I'm an electrical contractor and use my makita on a daily basis chasing chopping in and occasional 4 inch core drills, I have 3 5 AH batteries and a fast charger

 

[PerryGunn]

I wouldn't have a cordless SDS - I don't think they can match the power of corded.

as with all things, it depends upon how long your piece of string is...

I have 3 'normal'* SDS drills... because I use them in different circumstances (and I'm a tool wh0re... )
- Makita DHR263 36v, 2.5J impact
- Makita DHR182 18v , 1.7J impact
- Makita HR2450 240v, 2.4J impact

All are 3-mode SDS+ drills with additional rotation stop setting for choosing your 'angle' for things like chisel bits.

The DHR182 is great to use up ladders etc. handles well and is quite light, easily copes with anything up to a 12mm hole on brick/concrete while drilling one-handed, can manage larger bits but really needs two hands (so not up a ladder), weighs about the same as the 2450

The DHR263 can cope with much larger bits and, power-wise, is at least on par with the HR2450, but is around a kilo heavier than the 2450 or 182 so is really a two handed drill. Great drill when you're doing stuff where running power cords would be a PITA or those times when it would take longer to dig out an extension cord and get it ready than it does to drill the single hole that you need.

The HR2450 was my first SDS and is about 20 years old now, but is still a great drill as long as you have mains power within reach. You can use it one handed but, on a ladder, the weight of the cord tends to alter the balance and make it tail-heavy. Around the same weight as the 182, but with the power of the 263.

With regard to the original post, if I was chiselling plaster, tiles or concrete all within reach of the house, I'd go for a mains-powered drill. I've never found battery life to be a problem with drilling holes and never had to drill so many in one session that a 5Ah battery (or 2 x 5Ah in the 263) has not been enough but chiselling is a lot more energy intensive and I think you'd find that it would eat through batteries if you were doing a substantial area.


*I also have an 'el-cheapo' SDS-Max that I only use for demolition work - I used it once with a large diameter bit to drill a hole and nearly broke my thumb because I didn't realise that it didn't have a clutch (I know, I should have RTFM)

 

[Mel769]

Probably you no this already but if chiselling tiles off a wall do use goggles / safety glasses! In fact use them on concrete as well; but especially ceramic tiles; can be nasty if when a shard lodges in the mince pies !

 

[mccpe]

I wouldn't have a cordless SDS - I don't think they can match the power of corded.

I also find myself picking up my Dewalt cordless before reaching for the corded Bosch, there’s really not much in it for power and the cordless is generally less faff. If I was buying a corded drill, I’d probably just get a cheap one, maybe Parkside?

SDS Max is much heavier and much more suitable for breaking lots of concrete. For drilling SDS+ will probably be fine for all of your needs. I have a 25mm x 1m drill that works fine in my Dewalt through stone walls. For breaking, SDS+ is a bit light for old, hard concrete, but for small areas you can drill first, then break. For other stuff, like plaster, or dismantling brick or block walls, SDS+ is often just fine. Ordinary SDS doesn’t exist any more does it? Definitely don’t buy anything unless it is SDS+.

 

[cemannion]

I have this one, it replaces a similar bosch and is much better. We have corded sds as well but this is the goto tool.

 

[WoodYewToo]

You'd be surprised, I'm an electrical contractor and use my makita on a daily basis chasing chopping in and occasional 4 inch core drills, I have 3 5 AH batteries and a fast charger

Thanks for the info.
I've got a few Makita 5Ah batteries and a couple of fast chargers - so, from what you say, it sounds like I'll be OK for a few hours work!
Which model Makita do you have. I'm guessing it's one of the 18v models.

Thanks again.

 

[WoodYewToo]

as with all things, it depends upon how long your piece of string is...

I have 3 'normal'* SDS drills... because I use them in different circumstances (and I'm a tool wh0re... )
- Makita DHR263 36v, 2.5J impact
- Makita DHR182 18v , 1.7J impact
- Makita HR2450 240v, 2.4J impact

All are 3-mode SDS+ drills with additional rotation stop setting for choosing your 'angle' for things like chisel bits.

The DHR182 is great to use up ladders etc. handles well and is quite light, easily copes with anything up to a 12mm hole on brick/concrete while drilling one-handed, can manage larger bits but really needs two hands (so not up a ladder), weighs about the same as the 2450

The DHR263 can cope with much larger bits and, power-wise, is at least on par with the HR2450, but is around a kilo heavier than the 2450 or 182 so is really a two handed drill. Great drill when you're doing stuff where running power cords would be a PITA or those times when it would take longer to dig out an extension cord and get it ready than it does to drill the single hole that you need.

The HR2450 was my first SDS and is about 20 years old now, but is still a great drill as long as you have mains power within reach. You can use it one handed but, on a ladder, the weight of the cord tends to alter the balance and make it tail-heavy. Around the same weight as the 182, but with the power of the 263.

With regard to the original post, if I was chiselling plaster, tiles or concrete all within reach of the house, I'd go for a mains-powered drill. I've never found battery life to be a problem with drilling holes and never had to drill so many in one session that a 5Ah battery (or 2 x 5Ah in the 263) has not been enough but chiselling is a lot more energy intensive and I think you'd find that it would eat through batteries if you were doing a substantial area.


*I also have an 'el-cheapo' SDS-Max that I only use for demolition work - I used it once with a large diameter bit to drill a hole and nearly broke my thumb because I didn't realise that it didn't have a clutch (I know, I should have RTFM)

Great.
Many thanks for such a detailed reply. I appreciate it.

 

[WoodYewToo]

I wouldn't have a cordless SDS - I don't think they can match the power of corded.

Thanks.
I may end up getting a corded one as well if I need more power for some jobs.
Thanks again.

 

[WoodYewToo]

Probably you no this already but if chiselling tiles off a wall do use goggles / safety glasses! In fact use them on concrete as well; but especially ceramic tiles; can be nasty if when a shard lodges in the mince pies !

Great advice.
Thanks

 

[WoodYewToo]

I also find myself picking up my Dewalt cordless before reaching for the corded Bosch, there’s really not much in it for power and the cordless is generally less faff. If I was buying a corded drill, I’d probably just get a cheap one, maybe Parkside?

SDS Max is much heavier and much more suitable for breaking lots of concrete. For drilling SDS+ will probably be fine for all of your needs. I have a 25mm x 1m drill that works fine in my Dewalt through stone walls. For breaking, SDS+ is a bit light for old, hard concrete, but for small areas you can drill first, then break. For other stuff, like plaster, or dismantling brick or block walls, SDS+ is often just fine. Ordinary SDS doesn’t exist any more does it? Definitely don’t buy anything unless it is SDS+.

Thanks for the advice.
I'll make sure to remember your tip about drilling concrete before breaking. Useful knowledge.
Thanks again.

 

[WoodYewToo]

I have this one, it replaces a similar bosch and is much better. We have corded sds as well but this is the goto tool.

Thanks.
Can I just check... which make/model you're using now instead of your old Bosch?
Thanks again.

 

[rs6mra]

I recently got the one you mentioned with a Z on the end and I'm impressed with it so far. I believe the fact that it is brushless makes all the difference.

 

[WoodYewToo]

I recently got the one you mentioned with a Z on the end and I'm impressed with it so far. I believe the fact that it is brushless makes all the difference.

Thanks for the info.
Yes, I think the brushless motors help the tool to do more work 'per battery charge' - as there's less friction inside the motor.

What sort of work have you been doing with your DHR242z ?? Any chiselling or just drilling?
What makes of drills and chisels have you been using? Any recommendations?

By the way... I think, in 'Makita language', the 'z' at the end of a tool name/number means it's the version that's supplied as a 'bare tool' ie without batteries or a charger.

Thanks again.

 

[Fergie 307]

Thanks for the advice.
I'll make sure to remember your tip about drilling concrete before breaking. Useful knowledge.
Thanks again.

Another trick for breaking up thick concrete like a shed base is to cut it first. I have a petrol disc cutter and cut into the slab with that in lines maybe 6 inches apart, depends how big chunks you can deal with. Then hammer in a suitable wedge to split it.

 

[Bingy man]

Hilti and heller are amongst the best drill bits I’ve used and are my 1st and 2nd choice after that makita and dewalt are decent quality for general drilling. I avoid the real cheap ones and definitely anything unbranded imo ..

 

[Spectric]

I wouldn't have a cordless SDS - I don't think they can match the power of corded.

In some cases they can, but you need spare batteries and a fast charger if using them for any length of time. Corded just keeps going and no batteries to worry about. I am still using a thirty year old 110 volt Hilti that has had a hard life yet still keeps going and for holes in hard concrete it is my go to choice.

As for drills that can be used in hammer only mode I have a Bosch that works ok but not with the force the Hilti can produce, not an issue as if chiseling of tiles as you do not want to losen any bricks !

Yes, I think the brushless motors help the tool to do more work 'per battery charge' - as there's less friction inside the motor.

Having no brushes reduces the friction but instead you have more complicated electronics to perform the commutation.

Another trick for breaking up thick concrete like a shed base is to cut it first.

Yes the tool of choice, ie the sledge hammer becomes less useful as we get older !

 

[Phil Pascoe]

My 18v Milwaukee drill will blow the odd 12mm hole in concrete without difficulty using decent ordinary masonry bits (Fischer, not SDS). I have two DeWalt SDS drills, one 230v, one 110v - for a lot of work I use the 110v, purely because it has a better chuck. A decent chuck and quality bits make more difference than the brand of the drill. I recently put up some shelf brackets that required 36 holes to be aligned - I didn't have to re drill one. Hilti bits.

 

[rs6mra]

Thanks for the info.
Yes, I think the brushless motors help the tool to do more work 'per battery charge' - as there's less friction inside the motor.

What sort of work have you been doing with your DHR242z ?? Any chiselling or just drilling?
What makes of drills and chisels have you been using? Any recommendations?

By the way... I think, in 'Makita language', the 'z' at the end of a tool name/number means it's the version that's supplied as a 'bare tool' ie without batteries or a charger.

Thanks again.

I have not used it for tough jobs but my brother in law is a builder and he confirmed that it was worth purchasing one instead of a 240v