Hi Steve
Welcome to the forum
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Different saws have different methods of tensioning the blade, so without knowing which particular saw you have or seeing a photograph, it is difficult to advise. Many saws have a tensioning device at the back of the upper arm, usually a black knob - if yours has one of these, it is probably what you are looking for.
The amount of tension you should exert on your blade will vary slightly according to how fine the blade is. A sturdy #12 will take considerably more tension than a thin #1. This is one of the reasons why beginners break blades so readily. Generally speaking, you should have about 1 to 2 millimetres lateral movement if you 'ping' the tensioned blade with your finger. Some people judge blade tension by the ringing tone when the blade is 'pinged', but I've never been able to do this. I guess I'm just not musical.
Learning to follow a pattern line is an acquired skill which requires practise, so do not worry if you go astray when you begin. Take your time. It helps if you constantly look a little ahead of the point where the blade is actually cutting and aim towards it. Most blades have a bias to the right because of the manufacturing process, so be prepared for this.
It would be interesting to know which blades you are using. Those supplied with a new saw by the manufacturer are usually very poor quality and it pays to replace them straight away with a better brand. If you search this forum, you will find lots of links to reputable online blade suppliers, but living in Birmingham you're blessed with ready access to the Jewellery Quarter. Once you are more proficient, you should be able to buy jewellers fret saw blades from suppliers there.
Gill
