Hi, I've just bought a parkside scroll saw second hand, the sawblade length is stated as 134 mm, but the nearest I can see online is 130 mm. I tried Parkside but it's in German. Do you think that would do the job. Thanks.
Scroll saw spares
- Thread starter jameskidd
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Dominik Pierog
Established Member
Its use this ugly pin system.
Those blades are horrible. If its your first scrolling don't buy that... If you have some practice you will not buy that.
You can buy conversion kit
My first ss was proxxon with dual/system pin + pin-les.
And I also buy loots of pin blades with this scrollsaw...... And it was horrible experience. I think is impossible for me to scroll.
Those blades are horrible. If its your first scrolling don't buy that... If you have some practice you will not buy that.
You can buy conversion kit
My first ss was proxxon with dual/system pin + pin-les.
And I also buy loots of pin blades with this scrollsaw...... And it was horrible experience. I think is impossible for me to scroll.
AES
Established Member
Apart from Dremel scroll saws, and the small Proxxon machine (I think) ALL scroll saws take the same size blades, including your Workzone machine. The size is 5 inches (130 mm - both lengths are APPROX - don't worry about 4 mm)!
Your scroll saw is not "brilliant", but with care and practice it will cut wood.
If you look at previous posts by Dominik in this section you'll see that he produces very fine fretwork-type cuts on his work - looks almost like lace!
If you want to do work like that yourself then Dominik is correct, you'll find pinned blades a real PITA (though with perseverance and by using the finest pinned blades they can be made to work in at least some projects. Many people have done exactly that.
But if you want to do more general/less internal cuts work then pinned blades will work OK, but generally speaking pinless blades are still to be preferred.
To solve your problems I suggest you visit Axminster Tools (in person or or line). They are the UK dealers for Swiss-made Pegas blades, and Pegas have a huge range of both pinned and pinless blades.
There are also other blade brands, such as Hobbies UK. ALL will fit your machine.
Axi also have a conversion kit, similar to that shown by Dominik which will - I THINK - allow you to convert your Workzone machine to use pinless blades.
In short:
1. you CAN used pinned blades if you're patient and don't want to do really really fine fretwork;
2. definitely not "the best in the world" but your Workzone machine CAN be used (with pinned blades) to produce decent work if you're patient and if you practice a lot (and BTW, a lot of practice is needed anyway, whatever blade and machine you use!);
3. your machine CAN be converted to take pinless blades at reasonable cost and that will help you with fine work, but your machine still won't be "the best in the world"!
HTH (I have NO connection with Axi or with Pegas or Hobbies BTW).
Edit for a P.S. (2 actually)!
1. In the above I see I keep talking about Workzone (which is an Aldi brand). Checking above I see that your machine is Parkside (Lidl brand). Sorry for my mistake and if that has confused you, but in reality it doesn't matter, both machines are virtually the same (apart from the colour and badges).
2. It sounds like you're a beginner to scrolling. If so I suggest you do a search on Youtube where you'll find plenty of info (mainly US but that doesn't matter) explaining a lot about blade choice and various machines pros/cons. Also you'll find a lot of tutorials which include cutting exercises for you to try. I strongly recommend that you do some of those exercises. getting those off pat will help you enormously (well they did me, anyway) ;-)
Steve Good is a good (sorry!) name to look for.
Again, HTH
Your scroll saw is not "brilliant", but with care and practice it will cut wood.
If you look at previous posts by Dominik in this section you'll see that he produces very fine fretwork-type cuts on his work - looks almost like lace!
If you want to do work like that yourself then Dominik is correct, you'll find pinned blades a real PITA (though with perseverance and by using the finest pinned blades they can be made to work in at least some projects. Many people have done exactly that.
But if you want to do more general/less internal cuts work then pinned blades will work OK, but generally speaking pinless blades are still to be preferred.
To solve your problems I suggest you visit Axminster Tools (in person or or line). They are the UK dealers for Swiss-made Pegas blades, and Pegas have a huge range of both pinned and pinless blades.
There are also other blade brands, such as Hobbies UK. ALL will fit your machine.
Axi also have a conversion kit, similar to that shown by Dominik which will - I THINK - allow you to convert your Workzone machine to use pinless blades.
In short:
1. you CAN used pinned blades if you're patient and don't want to do really really fine fretwork;
2. definitely not "the best in the world" but your Workzone machine CAN be used (with pinned blades) to produce decent work if you're patient and if you practice a lot (and BTW, a lot of practice is needed anyway, whatever blade and machine you use!);
3. your machine CAN be converted to take pinless blades at reasonable cost and that will help you with fine work, but your machine still won't be "the best in the world"!
HTH (I have NO connection with Axi or with Pegas or Hobbies BTW).
Edit for a P.S. (2 actually)!
1. In the above I see I keep talking about Workzone (which is an Aldi brand). Checking above I see that your machine is Parkside (Lidl brand). Sorry for my mistake and if that has confused you, but in reality it doesn't matter, both machines are virtually the same (apart from the colour and badges).
2. It sounds like you're a beginner to scrolling. If so I suggest you do a search on Youtube where you'll find plenty of info (mainly US but that doesn't matter) explaining a lot about blade choice and various machines pros/cons. Also you'll find a lot of tutorials which include cutting exercises for you to try. I strongly recommend that you do some of those exercises. getting those off pat will help you enormously (well they did me, anyway) ;-)
Steve Good is a good (sorry!) name to look for.
Again, HTH
whatknot
Established Member
To add to the aforementioned
I would post a picture of your Parkside saw as there are a few of them
Mostly the same but the blade clamps on the later ones are different and will take pinless without modification
If its like the one posted by Dominik the Axminster blade clamps are a reasonable modification but you may already have the type that takes pinless
NB the type that Dominik posted may come with two hanger type clamps, which can be used with pinless, but they are a bit of a pain to use
I would post a picture of your Parkside saw as there are a few of them
Mostly the same but the blade clamps on the later ones are different and will take pinless without modification
If its like the one posted by Dominik the Axminster blade clamps are a reasonable modification but you may already have the type that takes pinless
NB the type that Dominik posted may come with two hanger type clamps, which can be used with pinless, but they are a bit of a pain to use
AES
Established Member
@jameskidd:
To clarify the point I made in my post above (No.2). If you now look at Dominik's post titled "Rainbow Dash"in this section , it is my belief that with practice you definitely could cut a pattern like that with your existing saw, and possibly with your existing pinned blades (it depends how coarse they are, and how thick the wood/ply you use.
Whereas if you look for some of Dominik's previous posts with VERY fine "lacy" fretwork, that would be a different story!
In short, machines like yours, and blades like yours definitely CAN be used to good effect - WITH practice.
My first 2 scroll saws (and blades) were pretty much like yours (until I learnt much more on here) so don't be put off.
The real differences (AFTER practising!) are how much sanding is needed after cutting; how easy it is to change (and tension) blades; and how much fun you get/time it takes when "struggling " with inferior blades and/or machines.
But that's the reason why you pay 3 times (or more) more for a good machine and pinless blades than you do for inferior gear
To clarify the point I made in my post above (No.2). If you now look at Dominik's post titled "Rainbow Dash"in this section , it is my belief that with practice you definitely could cut a pattern like that with your existing saw, and possibly with your existing pinned blades (it depends how coarse they are, and how thick the wood/ply you use.
Whereas if you look for some of Dominik's previous posts with VERY fine "lacy" fretwork, that would be a different story!
In short, machines like yours, and blades like yours definitely CAN be used to good effect - WITH practice.
My first 2 scroll saws (and blades) were pretty much like yours (until I learnt much more on here) so don't be put off.
The real differences (AFTER practising!) are how much sanding is needed after cutting; how easy it is to change (and tension) blades; and how much fun you get/time it takes when "struggling " with inferior blades and/or machines.
But that's the reason why you pay 3 times (or more) more for a good machine and pinless blades than you do for inferior gear
