Scroll saw - frustrations

[mac1012]

I have had 2 opportunities to buy the larger record scroll saw but I was concerned that there was no real way to connect to dust extraction have you guys that own one rigged something up ? or do you just blow instead of suck :lol:

mark

 

[Jaypee]

Hi Mark, I just use the blower (works wells) then clean up when I've finished. There is quite a large flat platform under the table that forms the motor housing/stand where the dust collects so there is room to custom fit a collection box I suppose. Perhaps the only 2 negatives of this saw are the lack of a dust extraction point and that it is free standing, if you only have bench space. Never regretted buying mine though.

John

 

[ChrisR]

Mark.

I use an Axmister dust extraction unit with an induction motor connected to a home made manifold **(4” soil pipe from builders merchant), this services extraction for scroll saw, router, sander and band saw. If scroll sawing I block off the other ports, and so on.

I also have a JET general filtration unit suspended from ceiling.

**Soil pipe and a roll of duct tape, is a far less expensive than dedicated dust extraction ducting. :wink:

Take care.

Chris R.

 

[mac1012]

jaypee your right it is a quality machine and I almost got it I am a bit fussy over the dust these days especially as I am kicking 50 in a few weeks time :lol:

when I was thinking of getting it I was thinking of ways I could attach the hegner dust extraction plastic port on to the front as there does look room then I would have connected the white air pipe and dust vac to it

it a lot better set up with its intergrated stand though I like it

 

[Lee J]

Thanks folks, I think a change of blade is the first step, then the tensioning. Maybe I'm tightening up too much.

I'll report back

 

[mac1012]

jaypee whats your experience of using it then ? blade changing vibration etc ? the variable speed looks as if on side can you reach ok when at machine ? also could you put a pc up of underneath of machine table near blade clamp I want to see what room the is to fit hegner dust port

thanks mark

 

[mac1012]

if the blade keeps braking just under clamp then yes you maybe tightening the blade clamp to much as too much squeeze fatigues the blade if you got a nice ping when you flick blade the tension will be ok I think you are tightening clamp too hard but it the chatter and grabbing that's a bit puzzling when turning to say its only 6mm mdf

mark

 

[Jaypee]

Hi Mark, sorry just had chance to sit down......work, supermarket, cooking all get in the way! Switch/control on side is not a problem for me but I am tall... left handed, vertically challanged peeps might find awkward. Under the table is approx 320mm across the stand,170mm from the table angle adjuster to the cam/arm connector with 56mm under the lower arm at its lowest point. Hope the pics show more than I can describe. VIbration is negligible even at high speed and blades have quick release top and bottom and slot in to a groove with a stop, nip up the knob, flip the front tensioner and away you go. The table also tilts both left and right to 45deg, hope this helps. Photos and this reply are from my phone because pc is tied up by you know who so apologies for quality/typos!

 

[Jaypee]

Sorry Mark its telling me the file is too big? Will work it out and get them on here somehow, bear with me.

 

[Jaypee]

Hi Mark, here goes again hope this works!
John

 

[Jaypee]

Aaaaarghh I give up.....upside down!!!! Sorry beer and chill time now, hope you can make something of them.


John

 

[cowboy682]

Mark
you should have got it when you had the chance dust collection is from a Henry vac suction pipe fits into a hole underneath the blade on the frame with a little pan shape of plastic on top of that sucks all dust away then there is just a little dust on table top that gets blown away, no problems a truly great saw.

 

[Jaypee]

Hi Mark...this is worth a look, if it won't open as a link, copy and paste onto your browser.

► 19:45► 19:45
www.youtube.com/watch?v=HRZ-0N7TIyU
20 Feb 2013 - Uploaded by Scott Smith
The Hawk 220/226 VS ULTRA, and 216VS Scroll Saw Instructional Video The Hawk 220 and ...
Cheers
John

 

[Lee J]

OK so I got me a job that requires a simple shape cutting out of 12mm MDF using the scroll saw. I fitted a new blade and tensioned it up after watching a few youtube clips on how to do this properly. Started off and got around the first turn and onto a straight run and ... BANG ! First blade gone.

Problem with this is when the blade goes bang it frightens the life out of me, it really unnerves me.

I fit a new blade and carried on... after a few more turns and twists another blade bit the dust.
By now my nerves are pretty shot and if it hadn't of been for the fact someone had ordered this item I would've stopped.

Now on my 3rd blade I nervously finished the item. I was so relieved to get it done.

Scrollsaw is now going on Ebay this morning, my scrollsaw days are over as this machine has put me off for good. I'll order my shapes from a fella I know that has a CNC cutter.

(hammer)

 

[Bryan Bennett]

What shame that with buying a RECORD scrollsaw which at one time would have been something to be proud of owning.Now being produced NOT OF THE QUALITY one would EXPECT of RECORD.Has put you off this GREAT hobby of ours.This has made me feel very sad and angry :evil:

Bryan

 

[Lee J]

I know Bryan, don't get me wrong though I'm not anywhere near an experienced scroll saw user and I admit my lack of knowledge probably contributed to the saws downfall, combined with the fact it japan/china junk.

I bought it to fulfill a job I'd got and thought it would be handy to keep in the workshop for cutting more intricate pieces but to be fair I hardly used it.

It'll make room (and a few quid) for my bobbin sander.

 

[john70]

If you haven,t changed the blade from the uploaded photo, it is in upside down. The teeth face down not up. john70.

 

[martinka]

Lee, I missed your post about breaking blades. I know it's no consolation, but I broke hardly any blades in my Jet (same as the record) saw, yet I've broken loads while using my Hegner, and yeah, I'm a bag of nerves too when it happens.
I needed to use the Jet saw day before yesterday and it worked a treat with Flying Dutchman Ultra Reverse #5 blades. The only thing that bothered me was the dust as I didn't have it connected to the vac.

 

[OldWood]

I do have to say that Lee's story is a sorry one, and as I am a complete novice user of the scroll saw I'm not able to offer advise.

Rather I'm in danger of rubbing salt into his wounds in that I bought the same machine about a year ago (same = same source, not the same badge), used it a couple of times to do some simple cut-outs, and then started using it seriously 4 weeks ago. I did buy a packet of 72 blades from a Swiss manufacturer from Axminster for this. I'm building a Noah's Ark for my grandchildren's Christmas - the boat (500mm long by 250 wide) is built predominantly of 19mm timber, in my case beech, and the 40 animals of 12 and 6mm. The boat is built and I'm part way through the animals. So far I've broken just one blade and that was just after I'd taken it out out see if it looked blunt so was probably due to re-applying stress to it.

Is it possible that hardwood is actually easier and more reliable to cut than MDF; I really can't believe that using the same machine and coming in at the same novice level that I can be so more successful than another wood worker ?

Rob

 

[cowboy682]

1 simple rule is let the blade do the cutting do not force the blade too hard l think this may be the problem, don't give up try and try again as with all cutting it is just getting used to your blades and feeling the resistance try cutting thinner wood get used to your saw, don't rush we all break blades at some point in starting out keep trying you will get there.
hope that helps you out