Scroll saw box first attempt
- Thread starter Jim o1
- Start date
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Woodchips2
Established Member
Well done, looks good =D>
Regards Keith
Regards Keith
toesy
Established Member
Thats look lovely, very well cut
Just wait until you varnish/Danish oi/French polish it - or whatever you decide
Then you will smile even more
Just wait until you varnish/Danish oi/French polish it - or whatever you decide
Then you will smile even more
stevebuk
Established Member
Has anyone done a how to in pictures making these boxes, I haven't got a clue..
toesy
Established Member
Hey I've got a question. I made one of those once, very basic though only one drawer.
How do you get the insides nice and smooth too?
I don't have a spindle sander & my dremel sanding bit would take off too much.
After I glued it up the insides were slightly off (easier to sand on the outside to smooth flush sides)
How do you get the insides nice and smooth too?
I don't have a spindle sander & my dremel sanding bit would take off too much.
After I glued it up the insides were slightly off (easier to sand on the outside to smooth flush sides)
Samfire
Established Member
Very Nice, I like it.
George
George
Scrollerman
Established Member
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Hey Jim.
What a great job you've made of that and I note from the image you are using an entry level Clarke scroll saw.
I can only wonder what you are capable of on that saw if this is your 1st attempt !
This is a fantastic example of what can be achieved on a basic scroll saw and your post should be made a 'Sticky' for all beginners to see as inspiration !
How about it Admin ?
What a great job you've made of that and I note from the image you are using an entry level Clarke scroll saw.
I can only wonder what you are capable of on that saw if this is your 1st attempt !
This is a fantastic example of what can be achieved on a basic scroll saw and your post should be made a 'Sticky' for all beginners to see as inspiration !
How about it Admin ?
Thank you for the kind comments i have to admit im quite pleased with it a second different style is all ready on the workbench
The designs are taken from a book called box making projects for the scroll saw by Gary mackay
After my first raindeer the wife has gret plans for me and my scrolsaw she ordered 4 books from amazon
There's also a box with wood ern hinges i think he calls it a sewing box looking forward to that one
Toesy i tried some mahogany oil and pine oil but really didn't like it went far to dark i think my next approach will be a wax of somekind i need to research this
Steve toesys image is verry sim alar to my book the only difference is that there's all the information on one single pattern outside edge draw edges and draw cut outs depending how deep you would like your box is how many patterns to print the key is to glue everything together without anything moving allot less sanding
Keato i used a broom handle and some 80 grit paper to shape the insides of the draw i didnt glue the back or front on untill i was happy once the front and back were fixed i did my best to equalise the draw margines using the entry hole as the margines width
The Clarke has its issues but persistence and a few hot fixes allong the way is keeping me going unfortunately im avoiding fret type work blade threading is a reall nightmare the Scandinavian pattern book will have to wait
Ivejust got some fd blades and no drill bits small enough i want to bring the draw margines down
Best get in the workshop i manage to find some oak and ash looking forward to using it
The designs are taken from a book called box making projects for the scroll saw by Gary mackay
After my first raindeer the wife has gret plans for me and my scrolsaw she ordered 4 books from amazon
There's also a box with wood ern hinges i think he calls it a sewing box looking forward to that one
Toesy i tried some mahogany oil and pine oil but really didn't like it went far to dark i think my next approach will be a wax of somekind i need to research this
Steve toesys image is verry sim alar to my book the only difference is that there's all the information on one single pattern outside edge draw edges and draw cut outs depending how deep you would like your box is how many patterns to print the key is to glue everything together without anything moving allot less sanding
Keato i used a broom handle and some 80 grit paper to shape the insides of the draw i didnt glue the back or front on untill i was happy once the front and back were fixed i did my best to equalise the draw margines using the entry hole as the margines width
The Clarke has its issues but persistence and a few hot fixes allong the way is keeping me going unfortunately im avoiding fret type work blade threading is a reall nightmare the Scandinavian pattern book will have to wait
Ivejust got some fd blades and no drill bits small enough i want to bring the draw margines down
Best get in the workshop i manage to find some oak and ash looking forward to using it
Nice work Jim really nice. How is the Clarke performing, Not ordered mine yet but its between the
http://www.axminster.co.uk/jet-jss-16-b ... scroll-saw
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Clarke-CSS400B- ... U8C3QP4UJH
http://www.axminster.co.uk/jet-jss-16-b ... scroll-saw
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Clarke-CSS400B- ... U8C3QP4UJH
Hi rob i cant tell you what to buy but maybe add some information
I'm using the Clarke with the rotary tool attached
Its a chinese mass production as far as I can tell ie the draper one is identical exept the paint and stickers
At these prices we get what we pay for
Blades are the difference between a good and bad saw using the blades supplied will have you returning the machine for your money back
I have been cutting 38 mm mahogany with not to Mutch trouble
Vibration is an issue mined bolted to a heavy table on full pelt is still bit noisy
U see on the saw bed there's a plastic insert on my Clarke its thiner than the bed so snags work as your cutting
Can be worked arround used some 6 mm plywood drilled a 5 mm hole
For the blade and made a sled (new bed)
Blade tensioning is a knob at the back of the saw hand tight every time you need to thread the blade getting it the same every time takes some mastering
The jet you linked has a quick tension lever so once you set the tension a quick lever switch will release or put on tension you set
Blade clamps on the Clarke are 2 metal hooks with an alen key nut either side to grip the blade quite fiddley
I would consider motor bed tensioning system blade type pinless are a must IMO blade clamp stroke length
Cheapo seem to be £100-150 something not bad intermediate£ 500-700 top of the range£ 1500 +
I'm using the Clarke with the rotary tool attached
Its a chinese mass production as far as I can tell ie the draper one is identical exept the paint and stickers
At these prices we get what we pay for
Blades are the difference between a good and bad saw using the blades supplied will have you returning the machine for your money back
I have been cutting 38 mm mahogany with not to Mutch trouble
Vibration is an issue mined bolted to a heavy table on full pelt is still bit noisy
U see on the saw bed there's a plastic insert on my Clarke its thiner than the bed so snags work as your cutting
Can be worked arround used some 6 mm plywood drilled a 5 mm hole
For the blade and made a sled (new bed)
Blade tensioning is a knob at the back of the saw hand tight every time you need to thread the blade getting it the same every time takes some mastering
The jet you linked has a quick tension lever so once you set the tension a quick lever switch will release or put on tension you set
Blade clamps on the Clarke are 2 metal hooks with an alen key nut either side to grip the blade quite fiddley
I would consider motor bed tensioning system blade type pinless are a must IMO blade clamp stroke length
Cheapo seem to be £100-150 something not bad intermediate£ 500-700 top of the range£ 1500 +
