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I hope they are better than the ones I bought off him, they all snapped within a few minutes of use, I haven't dared to buy any more from him and stick with the ones from Hobbies. Hopefully I was unlucky to have a bad production run. :)
 
I hope they are better than the ones I bought off him, they all snapped within a few minutes of use, I haven't dared to buy any more from him and stick with the ones from Hobbies. Hopefully I was unlucky to have a bad production run. :)
working ok so far, cut thiis 22 mm white oak yesterday.
John
 

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Look like excellent cuts to me. No sanding after cuts? Presumably the darker bits of cuts (just beginning to burn?) are where you paused a bit during the cut?
dark bits are where it started to burn, no sanding used reverse tooth blades but there will be the corners to round off and dress it up in general, now got to look for a small caburle - this is a geuutimate how this spelt - table leg design.

john
 
Ok buddy from
Really looking for an reply from scrimper
Should have worded it better
Hope the blades you got from mike work good for you
 
Ok buddy from
Really looking for an reply from scrimper
I have purchased blades from many sources over the years, never had a problem with any of them except as I mentioned the Flying dutchman ones which for me were useless, they were probably a bad batch but it put me off buying them again and I ended up with lots of useless blades and hence wasted my money. (As they came from the US I did not think it was worth returning them, I did not get any reply to my email about their quality either).

I have found the Niqua ones work fine for me, I use standard blades and the reverse tooth ones but to avoid cut out I usually place a sacrificial piece of ply under the work which actually gives a smoother cut surface than any reverse tooth blade.
As I mentioned in one of my videos I have some blades in stock that my late grandfather bought from the original Hobbies company over 100 years ago and they are still rust free and work very well. (My grandfather sold Hobbies stuff in his shop in the 1920's which is why I still have the old blades.)
 
Just been ordering spare parts from Hegner UK and can confirm they have Niqua reverse blades in stock, no 5 and no 12, I briefly enquired purely as it was thought Hegner weren't stocking them anymore.
Also of note their website is finally being updated which is still very much work in progress but some functions are working, many other features still being developed
 
Flying Dutchman do not make scrollsaw blades. They import them from Niqua and sell them under the Flying Dutchman name, the same goes for Hobbies just rebranded.
 
Flying Dutchman do not make scrollsaw blades. They import them from Niqua and sell them under the Flying Dutchman name, the same goes for Hobbies just rebranded.
niqua and flying dutchman blades are made in the same factory, and are not the same blade, I know this because I have been down this rabbit hole beore, so got intouch with the factory.
 
working ok so far, cut thiis 22 mm white oak yesterday.
John

John, one small trick that you may not know. It helps me anyway.

One (of the many) reasons for a bit of burning appearing on cut edges is an uneven rate of feeding the job into the blade - for example, needing to stop the cut "for a rest" for some reason.

If I need to make such a stop I don't just stop feeding the job into the blade but actually pull the job towards me back a bit from the blade - say about a half inch or so. I find that helps to stop burn marks appearing and it may help you too. Apart from anything else that allows the cutting dust to fully clear from the kerf, especially on thicker workpieces.

Hope that's not teaching granny to suck eggs.
 
Hobbies blades are labelled Niqua. They also sell Pegas and Olson blades.
A few years ago I did try some Olson blades, they cost quite a bit more but I did not find much difference using them than the cheaper Niqua blades, they also went rusty quite quickly, (maybe I just had a poor batch?) :)
 
John, one small trick that you may not know. It helps me anyway.

One (of the many) reasons for a bit of burning appearing on cut edges is an uneven rate of feeding the job into the blade - for example, needing to stop the cut "for a rest" for some reason.

If I need to make such a stop I don't just stop feeding the job into the blade but actually pull the job towards me back a bit from the blade - say about a half inch or so. I find that helps to stop burn marks appearing and it may help you too. Apart from anything else that allows the cutting dust to fully clear from the kerf, especially on thicker workpieces.

Hope that's not teaching granny to suck eggs.
hi, it was the ***** blades I was using that caused that, not reversed tooth, thats all changed now, always need to listen other peoples views even if I know the answer, BUT I might not know the answer, I go by one mouth two ears, and, there are more knowlegable people out there than me.

cheers
John
 

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