Screws VS nut inserts

[Jonm]

Disassemble = to take apart with a view to being able to reassemble.

Dismantle = take apart often by brute force without a requirement to put back together.

Interesting, I have always used them interchangeably. I looked up the origin of dismantle as follows
dismantle (v.)
1570s, "deprive or strip of fortifications or equipment, raze, destroy, tear down," from French desmanteler "to tear down the walls of a fortress," literally "strip of a cloak," from des- "off, away" (see dis-) + manteler "to cloak," from mantel "cloak" (see mantle (n.)). The literal sense, "deprive of dress, strip" (c. 1600) is archaic or obsolete in English. Related: Dismantled; dismantling.

So the origin of the word is to take apart and destroy. However with use it’s meaning has changed somewhat but the implication is that the item will not be put back together ie dismantled railway, car dismantler etc.

So full marks to Droogs for his careful choice of words.

 

[Jos7000]

I would be more concerned with the likes of bicycle to bike, friend to m8 (worse still m9). Then there is the replacement of English with Americanisms, my dad used to get really angry about it, I never understood why, until I reached a similar age. You may hate me for this one day, but, American films (not movies) or TV shows, the use of the word stat, it's in everything and double negatives, grrr.
Rant over

 

[Ollie78]

You could try something like buttonfix type fittings. Instead of welded tabs bolt the button part to the metal frame with tapped holes and countersunk machine screws. Then router the top to accept the female part if the connection. Then the top is fitted by placing on and sliding to the side.

Ollie

 

[recipio]

Threaded inserts are tricky to use. I find that a 10 mm hole is optimal for hardwood and 9mm for softwood. I made a pair of sidetables once that required a 12.5 degree splay in the legs and simply set some threaded rod in the legs with epoxy resin.Worked fine.

 

[Woodypk]

Jos,

The tabs aren't fastened to the underside. They're welded to the frame.

I had thought about drilling a clearance hole for the screw/bolt head and a smaller hold to keep the screw/bolt head captive inside the box section but thought it might look a bit weird having the holes through the frame on show. And also perhaps slightly more awkward to properly slot these holes to allow for movement across the table top.

It might not though... I do make most of my decisions on the job, half way through a project so who knows what I'll end up with!

 

[Woodypk]

You could try something like buttonfix type fittings. Instead of welded tabs bolt the button part to the metal frame with tapped holes and countersunk machine screws. Then router the top to accept the female part if the connection. Then the top is fitted by placing on and sliding to the side.

Ollie

Ollie, I'll check these out...

Threaded inserts are tricky to use. I find that a 10 mm hole is optimal for hardwood and 9mm for softwood. I made a pair of sidetables once that required a 12.5 degree splay in the legs and simply set some threaded rod in the legs with epoxy resin.Worked fine.

Recipio,

I think for this particular application, it should be much harder than drilling pilot holes. I'm just going one step further than fitting a nut insert into the hole with this method...
If I end up using it.

For something that I don't want to take apart, I'd definitely reach for the domino.

 

[MARK.B.]

One easy and very very cheap way of doing it would be to cut suitable sized slots on the inside edge of the frame , then using a couple of off cuts and a screw make swiveling tab;s that fasten to the top and swivel into the cut out slots , that should hold it firmly in place / is easy to remove if needed and wont be seen

 

[TheTiddles]

30mm of oak is absolutely loads of material to take a wood screw, a handful will be plenty to pick up the table and swing it around by the top. Threaded inserts are for things where a narrow tapped thread is weak, you’re not in that situation
Aidan

 

[Sgian Dubh]

My question is, could anyone offer any information with regards to using the drill and screw in threaded nut inserts with bolts rather than using regular wood screws?

Has anyone used these for this type of application and had any good/bad results that they can report?

What you are proposing is overthinking and overengineering on a grand scale. Create your holes or slots in the metal 0.5 mm wider than the widest shank diameter of a woodscrew, e.g., 4.5 mm slot for a no 8 (4 mm dia) screw, or 5 mm slot for a no 10 or ~4.5 mm dia screw. Use a roundhead wood screw (for its flat underside) and fix directly into the wood. Incorporating threaded inserts into your solution is just so much unnecessary faff for no appreciable gain. Slainte.

 

[Woodypk]

Thanks for the replies guys.

I had thought going the way of the woodscrew would be absolutely fine. It seems like for this project, it's probably more than suitable.

Cheers guys