Screws for oak cladding

[JonCamo]

Hi

I am cladding a gazebo project with 20mm T n G oak cladding. Would these screws be appropriate? If not any suggestions?

Regards

Jon

 

[MARK.B.]

You could use either screws or nails ,depending on how much cladding there is to do using screws could work out rather expensive because for fixing into oak you will need to use stainless steel fixings, if you use steel fixings after a short time you will start to see black staining as the oak tannin's reacts with the steel. Also it would be advisable imo to pre drill holes first to minimize the risk of splitting the oak

 

[Ollie78]

I used those screws for my tongue and grooved cedar cladding and they worked great I have used them for flooring as well on many occasions.
A quick note that I pre drill them even though it says you don`t have to especially in Oak or harder woods like Maple, when used for flooring I normally set up one drill with the driver bit and one with drill bit this saves a lot of time. It is worth the effort and eliminated the tendancy for the tongue to split off if you just drive them straight in.
Spax do a very similar screw as well if you cant find these ones.

Ollie

 

[JonCamo]

You could use either screws or nails ,depending on how much cladding there is to do using screws could work out rather expensive because for fixing into oak you will need to use stainless steel fixings, if you use steel fixings after a short time you will start to see black staining as the oak tannin's reacts with the steel. Also it would be advisable imo to pre drill holes first to minimize the risk of splitting the oak

Thank you

The ones in the attached photo look to fit the bill then

 

[Vann]

I believe oak reacts with steel/iron, as Mark said. I have no idea if stainless steel also reacts, or not.

Pre-drilling sounds very advisable.

Cheers, Vann.

 

[JonCamo]

I used those screws for my tongue and grooved cedar cladding and they worked great I have used them for flooring as well on many occasions.
A quick note that I pre drill them even though it says you don`t have to especially in Oak or harder woods like Maple, when used for flooring I normally set up one drill with the driver bit and one with drill bit this saves a lot of time. It is worth the effort and eliminated the tendancy for the tongue to split off if you just drive them straight in.
Spax do a very similar screw as well if you cant find these ones.

Ollie

Thanks Ollie

Definitely plan to pre drill

Jon

 

[squib]

You may find the tongue tite too skinny, they are excellent for invisible floorboard fastening and don't need pre drilling. I would used something like this Spax Wirox TX Countersunk Flooring Screw 4.5 x 60mm 300 Pack - Screwfix
Stainless versions are available also different makes, I think axi do some also.

 

[JonCamo]

Will take a look

Thanks

 

[Jameshow]

Stainless is softer than steel so deffo pre drill.

 

[J-G]

Stainless is softer than steel...

That is not my understanding! The addition of Chromium makes all versions of 'Stainless' much harder than 'mild' steels which vary in hardness dependent upon the %age of Carbon included.

That does not detract from the point that it would be wise to pre-drill.

 

[niall Y]

The heads can also break off if you are not careful, so drilling definitely needed.

 

[squib]

Sorry i posted the wrong link, these are the best ones with the double thread and small head and are stainless, for mush less money you can get spax wirox in the same pattern. They are truly excellent, in seasoned oak and close to the board end you can pre frill but in green timber cladding there is absolutely no need. J