Screw holes in bottom of bowl

[jgrover39]

After turning my first bowl I need to find a way of hiding the four holes left by the screws in the faceplate. I was thinking about using epoxy putty to fill them and then treat the bowl with some vegetable oil to bring out the colour.

http://img395.imageshack.us/img395/3575/sdc10668.jpg

Thanks, Jon

 

[CHJ]

Please reduce the size of the image, it's far to big for normal forum viewing.
You can also delete your duplicate post if no one replies to it.

Now to your question:
Fill them with fine sanding dust of the same colour and seal with CA glue.

Have a read of the help sticky at the top of the forum where you will find a couple of examples of holding a bowl without a chuck to avoid the holes in the first place.

 

[jgrover39]

sorry about that, any ideas how to reduce the size?

thanks

 

[CHJ]

Either pick a smaller image option from Image Shack or reduce the picture size before you upload it.

If using XP operating system then you could get Windows Image Resizer from Microsoft power toys.

http://www.microsoft.com/windowsxp/Down ... rtoys.mspx.

 

[Ad de Crom]

The best thing to avoid screw holes is to take care of enough meat as I suppose that you used a faceplate. Or glue a block of wood at the bottom of the bowl which you can cut off lateron.
A resized picture would be better to show the screw holes.
Ad

 

[jgrover39]

All fixed now, sorry for that this was my first time posting a photo. I know that i needed to have used a proper chuck for this but i dont even own a lathe it is my friends (i'm hoping to aquire one when space permits). I have heard about using hot glue to mount the blank onto the waste wood that is screwed into the faceplate, i'm my experience of general woodwork hot glue isn't very strong, do any of you use it?

Thanks, Jon

 

[Blister]

All fixed now, sorry for that this was my first time posting a photo. I know that i needed to have used a proper chuck for this but i dont even own a lathe it is my friends (i'm hoping to aquire one when space permits). I have heard about using hot glue to mount the blank onto the waste wood that is screwed into the faceplate, i'm my experience of general woodwork hot glue isn't very strong, do any of you use it?

Thanks, Jon

Regarding the Glue , you need to use it when its dripping hot , not just soft

Hope you get a lathe sorted soon :wink:

 

[CHJ]

Jon, I have regularly held 250mm blanks on a 75mm scrap piece for turning with HOT melt glue.
You must as Blister says have it dripping runny to start with.

See This Thread for an example.

 

[OldWood]

Pick up this thread when looking for something else. By 'hot glue' I think we are all talking about wax stick glue, rather than the traditional brown glue - which could of course be used too but having a melt pot and all that is not really realistic.

I don't know if the more expensive guns (£20 from Screwfix) are any better than the cheap ones (~£5 from Lidls or Ebay), but I do find that there is quite a bit more wax melted than is required for the the few dots for the glue chuck.

I've taken recently to recycling these 'discs' of spilt wax, chopping them into smaller pieces and using the hot air gun to melt them sitting on top of the glue block; this has the advantage of having some back heat to keep the wax molten while the workpiece is being positioned onto the block - it is also quicker than waiting for the glue dispenser to heat up !!

Rob

 

[CHJ]

don't know if the more expensive guns (£20 from Screwfix) are any better than the cheap ones (~£5 from Lidls or Ebay), but I do find that there is quite a bit more wax melted than is required for the the few dots for the glue chuck...

In my experience for swinging something like a 200-250 mm Bowl Blank you need considerably more than "A few Dots" of adhesive.

I have both a cheap gun and a Bosh, The bosh provides a more consistent and greater flow rate than the cheapy.

I have never had a bond fail since I learnt that the glue needed to be very fluid before application, and to Clarify Method being referred to above SEE THIS LINK

 

[Bodrighy]

I have seen a 4' burr turned like this using wedges and hot glue. Scary but in fact it was as solid as a rock. I had loads of problems when I first tried it as I was impatient and didn't get it hot enough but as Chas says, leave it until it is literally dripping out of the nozzle.

My gun is a £20 one from Wickes and serves me well. The glue I get from eBay in packs of 50 and so far the only problem is that they tend to be short (6" so I need to keep them available to pop another one in.

Pete

 

[OldWood]

Chas - if the glueing is done the way I do it with the heat gun, then "a few dots" seems to be quite adequate.

I suppose some objective testing could be carried out but I suspect that there are perhaps just too many variables to make any rules, but certainly the pre-heating of the base block does seem to be effective.

And as I said, it actually is quicker (Blister please note re. your impatience stated in an old thread!!) than waiting for the glue gun to heat up.

Rob


Edit
Oops I've since spotted that it was Pete that was the impatient one - not Blister; my apologies Mr Blister, sir.
Rob

 

[Sportique]

Jon, I have regularly held 250mm blanks on a 75mm scrap piece for turning with HOT melt glue.
You must as Blister says have it dripping runny to start with.

See This Thread for an example.

CHJ - what a great link, many thanks for giving the time to such an article.

Perfect for the beginner to follow step-by-step =D> =D> =D>

Dave

 

[CHJ]

Thank you Dave, glad some of my simple how to's are of interest.
There are always a dozen different ways of tackling most tasks but I try to take the route of least resistance where possible.