Scheppach ts2010 table saw

[david simper]

Has anyone got experience of using this saw? If so, what do you think of it? I want to use it for box making and, despite assurances from the promo blurb and one testimonial, I’m concerned that what is basically a site saw will not be sufficiently accurate. Any advice welcome.

 

[Mark.R]

I went for the best I could afford at the time, and I have had extensive use out of it. It has been a joy to use, and I love its accuracy.

I would seriously consider purchasing one second hand on E-Bay in order to get this model.

I know its all down to personal choice, and some may disagree, but as I have said, I made a good choice when it was decision time to purchase my saw.

So be careful.

All the best with the decision you decide to make.

Mark.r

 

[wizer]

From what I've seen of the 2010 it's just a smaller version of their bigger saws. It's certainly not 'just a site saw'. It has the same fence arrangement and sliding table (option) as the bigger saws and they are all well made and well spoke of. Indeed, I've seriously considered this saw myself. But a sliding table is not high on my list and I think I'd prefer an old\US style top with 'standard' slots. But that's just me, I'm sure these saws are very good.

 

[stevel]

I've had one for several years and generally it is a good accurate saw. However, mine takes alot of resetting to keep its accuracy. sometimes just raising or lowering the blade is enough to have to reset the saw, and I never make cuts with the blade tilted as it doesn't remain parallel to the fence. Setting the sliding table is tedious and removing and replascing seems to affect the setting.

These sound like a lot of problems but I do not regret buying it, it was definitely the best saw at the time but now I would buy a SIP, but i don't make boxes!

Steve

 

[devonwoody]

I had similar sort of problems with the larger version mentioned above, I myself didnt like the method that was used to raise and lower the blade.

 

[DeepBlue]

I've got this saw, and overall, in this price range I'm very pleased with it.

As others have said, you need to take care when you set it up, but once done, it's very accurate. The induction motor is pretty quiet and very smooth. It's managed to cope with everything I've thrown at it, the most taxing was probably 2" maple.

Negatives? Well the mitre gauge that comes with it is a joke, so don't even bother. I know in this price range manufacturers don't consider it a precision instrument, but this verges on taking the p**s. I guess they assume people will buy the sliding table, which to be fair is pretty accurate once you've got it set up. Removal of the sliding table is a bit of an issue though due to the fact that there are nobbly bits sticking out in all axes, so finding a way to store it requires some ingenuity so you don't knock any of the carefully dialed in settings.

The maximum ripping capacity is fairly pathetic without the fold down table too - this is something I don't have.

Dust extraction is passable - it comes with an adaptor which splits a 100mm fitting into two - one for the crown guard and one for the chute at the back. This copes with *some* dust, but it's not perfect - dust spurts out the bottoms and sides whenever you cut anything. Perhaps my expectations are too high, but surely it can't be beyond the realms of human ingenuity to improve this?

It might sound like I'm being really critical, but this is probably because when I think of a tablesaw it's a big, cast iron, 'merrican jobbie. I'll summarize by saying that for all of my small, box making type projects, its a joy to use, but once I need to make something more substantial I'm left wanting

 

[Mike.C]

The first saw I ever had was the older model than this one the TS 2000, and the only reason that I got rid of it was because I upgraded to the TS2500.
Charley used to have one to and did a review here https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/Tools/Schep ... e-Saw.html

I agree with Tom, it certainly is not what I class as a site saw, far from it. In an ideal world the Scheppach 2500CI or 4010CI would be better but only because they have bigger tables. For a small show the 2010 is ideal. It will certainly be accurate enough for box making.

Cheers

Mike

 

[david simper]

Thanks for the advice everyone. I think after weighing it all up, I will go for this saw.

 

[jimi43]

Hi David

I have one of these...

Overall I would say that it did the job I wanted it to do...but it took a **** of a lot of changes and setup to get it that way. You should not expect to use it straight out of the box.

I think that Scheppach and Kity are both now resting on their reputation whilst selling saws clearly made in China...lots of plastic inside and tolerances that leave a LOT to be desired...this shot of the right extension table just about says it all really...

:shock: :?

The extension table didn't fit at all at first until I contacted the importers (NMA) to get some new hinges....they were brilliant! You will also need the "handbook extension" as I like to call it...the one that comes with it is in GERMGLISH.....and rubbish.

As Deepblue says the mitre gauge is absolute rubbish! You almost certainly need an OEM one or the sliding table which I use all the time but as you can see....it has a huge footprint which has the tendency to get you right in the thigh....I have hurt myself on numerous occasions just walking by the end of that bit!

I got a rolling rest for the front extension....I have the real front extension but I need some room in my workshop so for now...it sits where I put it on the first day...on hooks on the wall!

I think in hindsight (20/20) that I would not have chosen this saw...

I'm not sure WHAT I would have chosen at the time but probably an old Startrite would have been better...cast iron top and all....

This thing is just too fiddly to keep in setup correctly...ok if you are doing a constant production run where you can leave it but not easily replicated if you take bits (slider, extensions) off....and I don't think I will be tilting the blade...

Oh the blade...the one with it is rubbish...Freuds work well...and are cheap on fleaBay....

You MUST keep the inside clean....the dust goes bleedin' EVERYWHERE....but up the vacuum hose! It gets in the intake of the induction motor...into the wind-up mechanism....all over the floor....into the "sight glass" for the "micro-adjuster"....into the switch unit....all over the bearing faces of the slide table....(have I missed a bit?)

All this sounds really bad but if you are still interested...well you know what you are getting....

I can give you all the info you need on setup if you want to PM me...

Jim

 

[david simper]

Hmm! After that I'm back to considering the Jet JTS600 mail order. That photo is particularly telling.

 

[jimi43]

Hmm! After that I'm back to considering the Jet JTS600 mail order. That photo is particularly telling.

Hi Dave....

Yes...that "measure" does not exactly look accurate does it and where the countersunk head screw comes from...mmm some shed in Shanghai probably! The fence slider did not go over it! I have taken it out...

However...I will say that I don't use the gauge anyway....I always measure fence to blade....etc...

The table squaring exercise was just that...a LOT of exercise..I had to lie under the table to get to one bolt when setting the top square with the blade and you can't see if it is out again if you are lying on your back on the floor!

I believe the predecessors of this model are FAR better made..that is why there is so much contradiction in opinion for those having older models...I think they were at least assembled if not made in Germany.

I would only recommend this...take your time deciding and then take your time deciding again....and then.....

Oh....and just to add something I forgot...the dual action raise/lower/tilt mechanism is bonkers....

Hey...Dave...I am now depressed!!

It ain't bad at cutting though....and QUIET! Really quiet! :wink:

Jim

 

[wizer]

eugh. You must go and see these saws before you buy them. I love Jet, but I'd not buy that jts600.

 

[jimi43]

I went and saw this one but it was without the extension and the slider table and to be fair...the outside of the main base unit is fairly attractive...certainly better looking than the Kity...of around the same price.

I wrongly assumed that the three optional extras which came in a "discount" pack would accurately interface with the main unit and they do once you fiddle around for about three weeks....I still have to tweak the sliding table still!

BUT...it was in use that the other issues came to light...and I was just expecting things to be a little more repeatable. I think once I get this fully tuned in it will perform ok for the price but would I buy one again...no...probably not.

But then I didn't realise Axminster was right on my doorstep at the time...

Don't get me wrong...when it is set up and with the new Freud blade it really does cut some nice work......I probably need to get over the initial disappointment of the issues listed above...

Jim

 

[RogerM]

Another TS2010 user here. I bought this complete with side and outfeed extension tables, plus sliding table, on an "Ally Pally Special" about 4 years ago when the £/€ exchange rate was much better. I paid £599 and I think the same offer is now £799. That's 33% in 4 years, and they say there is no inflation! It replaced a very old t/s that was virtually unadjustable, and anything was going to be an improvement.

I pretty much concur with everything said already.

Pros.

1. Once set up, it is very accurate.

2. Superb vernier guage microadjustable fence on both the table and sliding table extension allows set up to a fraction of a millimetre, and repeatable operations.

3. Small footprint, and easily movable with an Axminster wheel set.

4. very smooth and quiet.

5. With a decent blade, will cut 2" English Oak with ease.

Cons

1. The mitre guage is useless for anything other than rough non precision crosscutting.

2. The blade that came with it was poor. Get a replacement from Freud or Atkinson Walker. See this thread for difference to stock blade results on this saw.

3. Setting up for accuracy is tedious, but once set, has been fine.

4. Some of the plastic parts are a bit flimsy.


The dust collection is a bit "so so". However, when changing the blade recently I found the dust collection chute beneath the blade was blocked with debris so that it was all just falling beneath the table rather than being sucked out. Clearing this out improved the dust collection immeasurably. Not really a problem - you just need to know that this can happen and keep it clear.

Would I buy it again? Probably, because the "pros" outweigh the "cons" for the type of use I give it. I certainly wouldn't describe it as a site saw! I would regard the side, outfeed and sliding tables as essential. For small precision work, once set up, I think it is fine. If I had limitless space but similar money I think I would probably go for the SIP 10". Also great saws come up regularly on Ebay, so unless you are in a hurry, be patient and save some serious dosh, or get a higher spec saw for the same outlay.

 

[david simper]

Thanks again for all the advice. I think on balance I'm off buying the Scheppach. What is the exact issue with the Jet jts600? I think that a trip over to Speedwell Tools might be in order to look at some tools. Axminster is a long way from here.

 

[jimi43]

I'd be putting my money on this one if it were me...

Meanwhile over on another thread!

:wink:

Jim

 

[Oryxdesign]

There's a nice looking cabinet saw being sold on here by a forum member, perhaps you could consider that?

Simon

 

[jimi43]

I have used my TS2010 for six months now...or rather..I have had my TS2010 for six months...

One month was spent talking to NMA (who are excellent btw) and trying to get the extension table working...that is fixed now...and then another month tinkering with shims and crawling underneath...cutting myself on the sharp base plate....adjusting the square of the top...(nightmare).

I built my workbench out of oak on it...it cut fine and square and consistently...but even WITH the required extraction...as I say...it retained fine dust everywhere inside.

Now..just today I decided to see how much dust is in the (many) inaccessible areas. The hand drawn but REALLY useful drawings from NMA were consulted (again) and particularly the "cleaning out the dust from the rise/fall mechanism" section. This had been getting stiffer and stiffer at each end of travel after my one project and so I realised that this was the problem.

The first line in their guide shocks me...."first turn the table UPSIDE DOWN!!!!!"

:roll:

I have everything finally tuned in and now I have to take everything off to turn the main unit UPSIDE BLEEDIN' DOWN to get to the R/F mechanism!

This is insane!

DON'T try and shove an airhose and hoover between the saw blade lift and the base from the top...I just cut the top off of my finger knuckle doing that...on the aforementioned lethal unfinished steel base cover!

And it doesn't work anyway. I now need to work out what to do next...

Who designed this saw?

Jim

 

[devonwoody]

I remember that one about turning the saw upside down. :x

I had more troubles with mine than you mention, and it stayed around 4 weeks in my workshop.