Scheppach Spare Motor £374 and two months to deliver!

[weekend_woodworker]

The motor in my Scheppach planer thicknesses has given up. Having been pointed by Scheppach at their UK importer NMA Agencies Ltd, I have just been quoted £374 for a replacement motor to arrive in February!

I only paid £500 for the whole thing when I bought it second hand. Can anyone recommend where I might get an alternative motor, or even get the current one repaired? It's a 2.4kW induction motor operating at 2820 rpm.

thanks,

Mark

 

[beech1948]

Mark,
2.4Kw is roughly 3.3333 HP. So start telephoning. 2820 is a bit of an odd speed but any motor running at say 2750 revs should be OK. The most problematic thing will probably be the diameter of the shaft coming out of the motor. If you can't find an exact match then start considering the use of shims (all round the shaft). Meaning you buy the next smallest size shaft. If all this seems to be too complex then find either an electrician or a repair centre.

NMA's price is quite ridiculous.

 

[beech1948]

Try a search on key "replacement electric motors" on Google.

 

[Trevanion]

Depends whether the motor was specially made to fit the machine (Which might be likely as you never come across motors rated for 2.4KW) or whether it's a standard mounting motor. Got any pictures?

If it's a standard B3 mount, realistically the cheapest new motor (Of a decent quality) you will find will run around £150 for the cheaper Chinese ones from Clarke, Machinemart, ETC.

 

[weekend_woodworker]

Thanks for the replies. I’ll see if I can post some photos of the motor tonight. It is mounted on its base. Having googled for replacement motors it looks lower profile than many. The junction box is on the side of the motor rather than the top. The pulley is fitted to the shaft with a key way and then a bolt in the end.

 

[Rorschach]

I highly doubt a static machine like that is using a custom made motor, these days even most portable tools are based around commercial standard motors.

 

[Lazurus]

I needed a new switch for my Scheppach HS4010 NMA £60, direct from German manufacturer 5 Euros plus postage

 

[Duncan A]

In what way has the motor "given up"?
Bearings can be replaced and motors rewound. Depending on the size, mounting and shaft dia, it may be easier and just as cheap to get it rewound (which would normally include new bearings)
If buying new, a decent quality 2.2kW 2-pole single phase motor would probably be about £150 inc Vat. Lots of info re sizes and fitting here: https://tecmotors.co.uk/products/
Duncan

 

[Duncan A]

Forgot to say, capacitors are cheap as chips.
For a rewind, just search on "Bath area electric motor rewind", although you'll probably find most rewind shops are Bristol based.
Duncan

 

[deema]

I suspect that’s is a braked motor which accounts for the high cost. These have a clutch type brake at the back of the motor. Usually you can’t repair or service the brake if it’s gone wrong. However there is normally a bridge rectifier that converts the AC to DC to power the elctromagnet that decouples the brake. This can fail and are cheap to replace. It’s normally found inside the terminal box connected across the mains input.

What actually happened to the motor to suggest that it needed replacing?

 

[weekend_woodworker]

I had been running the planer thicknesses since I bought it second hand for the last two years on a 13amp plug. I had had no problems with it even when it got cold. It then blew a fuse on start up recently. I found the motor would run fine when the drive belt was removed, but it blew. Fuse when the belt was attached. All of the parts rotated freely, so I don’t think anything had jammed. I tried replacing the capacitor on the motor and it made no difference. The motor is fairly simple and has no break on it.

I have tried contacting a few companies about getting it rewound, I’ll see what I hear back. Looking at other new motors online, I have yet to find one that doesn’t look a lot taller, as it fits in quite a small space in the machine.

 

[Trevanion]

I had been running the planer thicknesses since I bought it second hand for the last two years on a 13amp plug.

I remember your last thread now, did you try running it on a 16amp plug? 2.4KW is a bit much for a 13amp, even if it's rated for 10.

 

[weekend_woodworker]

Hi Trevanion,

Unfortunately I don’t have a 16amp outlet in my garage to try that with. I did debate about whether it was worth putting one in. I decided against it as I assumed something has changed with the machine to cause it to blow a fuse in the first place and feared this would just mask the situation till it got worse still and negates the new power outlet.

 

[MikeJhn]

Just one thought, have you added anything electrical in your house that may have loaded the circuit that supplies that motor?

Mike

 

[weekend_woodworker]

Just one thought, have you added anything electrical in your house that may have loaded the circuit that supplies that motor?

Mike

I hadn’t thought of that. But having thought about it now I don’t think anything else has changed. I wasn’t running anything else significant in the garage.

 

[MikeJhn]

Just following that on a bit further, is the garage a separate supply or taken off the house ring main?

Mike

 

[chaoticbob]

I'd agree with Trevanion that running a 2.4kW induction motor from 13A mains is a bit near the edge. Induction motors pull many times the rated continuous current on startup. It could be that motor is perfectly OK, but something else has changed which tips the circuit breaker over the edge - that could be some extra load on the circuit as suggested earlier, or even some crud in the planer which makes the motor take longer to spin up to speed. The 'trip point' of MCBs is a function of both the magnitude of the over-current and its duration.
Before assuming that the motor is at fault and going to the expense of a rewind or replacement it might be worth looking at the circuit again. For example, if you have a type B MCB (as is common in 'general purpose' domestic installations) it might be as simple as replacing with a type C which is more tolerant of start-up surges. I'm not an electrician , that's just what the sparks who wired up my workshop told me - he put in type C and I've not had any trouble.
Robin.

 

[Raymond UK]

NMA quoted me £128.00 for an on/off switch on my Scheppach table saw.

I think that might well have been my last purchase of the Scheppach brand.

 

[weekend_woodworker]

Its been the 13amp fuse in the plug that has been blowing not the trip on the fuse box. The circuit I. The garage is part of the house mains, but because the fuse in the plug was blowing I don't think that is the problem.

Still heard nothing back from all the companies I emailed about getting the motor rewound. Doesn't look like I am going to be able to get it going again any time soon!

 

[Trevanion]

If the motor runs fine without the belt on but breaks a fuse in the plug when it is in, it is definitely a starting current issue where it's not getting enough amperage. Its probably been fine for years but as bearings wear out get stiffer it requires a little more juice to get it going, we're talking literal 0.1s of amps which could cause it to blow a 13a fuse. It won't get any worse either so it's not a problem that will keep getting worse and requiring more energy. Of the Scheppach Hms2600's I've seen, they've all had a 16amp plug on. (They've usually got a 16amp male end on the actual machine) At some point, somebody's put a 13amp plug on your machine.

I personally think you'd be still in the same predicament even if you bought a new motor (Or rewound yours) as it still would not be getting enough power and you'd be atleast £200 out for a rewind and £400 out for a new motor. A 16amp plug and socket will set you back about £15 and wouldn't take long to wire in if you're handy with electrics, even if you aren't it's not an expensive job to get someone who knows what they're doing to do it.

If you really wanted to be a dangerous cheapskate you could always put a nail or a plug of copper in place of a fuse to see if it works. Although I would never do it myself. Won't cause any damage to the machine as the fusebox would trip first before anything like that happens.