scheppach planer thicknesser

[morrispark]

hi fellas
I know this won`t be nothing new on the forum, but just bought myselfe a scheppach pt
hms2600ci second hand and the tables are slightly out and cannot find any information
on how to put this right.I did not get the manual with it but also read this is waste the time.

would really appreciate any tips or advice on how to do this
as this is my first post I would like to say hello to everybody
thanks
Morris

 

[Orcamesh]

Hi Morris

Welcome to UKWorkshop!

In answer to your question you need to contact NMA Agencies, see http://www.nmatools.co.uk/...

Give them a call and they are excellent at sending you what you need (advice) on phone and/or on paper for free.

cheers
Steve

 

[Wouldchuk]

Morris,

I'd be really grateful if you can let me know how you get on with the process - i'm still in the market for a PT myself and see a lot of the Scheppach's coming up for sale, but have read that they are b*ggers to get set up.

At the moment I've been quite wary about the 260 CI model because of this, but on the flip side i've heard good things about their performance. Be grateful for any advice you have or observations on the process.

Cheers WC

 

[morrispark]

thanks Steve for your help, already been in touch with nma toolsand Alan send me 5 pictures with a bit or writing which I could hardly read and did not help much
I was hoping to find some one on the site with the same ps.how to ajust the table
and I am looking for a wheel kit for it.
cheers
Morris

 

[morrispark]

hi WC will keep you posted with progress when set up right these machines do give agood finish and easy to use just getting them right is the hard part?

 

[promhandicam]

hi fellas
I know this won`t be nothing new on the forum, but just bought myselfe a scheppach pt
hms2600ci second hand and the tables are slightly out and cannot find any information
on how to put this right.I did not get the manual with it but also read this is waste the time.

would really appreciate any tips or advice on how to do this
as this is my first post I would like to say hello to everybody
thanks
Morris

Mine were slightly out and I got them level by loosening all the bolts off on the outfeed table and then with a straight edge gradually doing the bolts back up while checking that everything was level to the infeed table. I did it on my own in about 20 minutes but it might be easier with a second pair of hands to support the outfeed table while the fixings are being tightened.

Steve

 

[Orcamesh]

Yep, I second the other Steve's comments. I am right in the middle of setting up my HMT260 (which is about 20 yrs old) as it has been knocked out of kilter during house move. So am currently setting the outfeed table relative to the shaft of the planer blade block. A straight edge across the outfeed table and only overhanging the blade shaft by 1mm across its width is the target (the infeed table is set beneath this so it doesn't get in way). Then you need to adjust the infeed table (loosen all bolts which attach this to main body) relative to the outfeed table whilst set to the zero cut setting. Again much patience needed until you get it right. You can for both tables hand tighten nuts/bolts and set them high initially and then gently tap with rubber mallet. Once the two tables are aligned then you need to set the blades in place relative to the outfeed table. One suggestion is to place a sheet of paper on the outfeed table with a straight edge on top of this and overhanging the loosely tightened blade, then align the blade height to just touch the underside of the straight edge. Do this across the width of the blade (i.e. at one location on each end). Repeat for next blade. When blade is rotated in shaft block with straight edge overhanging, it should move the straight edge forward by a few millimetres (~3mm). This should occur on each end of the blade and for both blades. It sounds painful, and when you do it for first time it takes ages unless you are very lucky!! But persevere because the machine does work extremely well once set. Setting the tables should only need to be done after a house move or machine move/accidental knock etc. Setting the blade can be speeded up by buying one of these magnetic jigs, you can get one from Axminster for about £20.

Hope this helps?
Steve

 

[morrispark]

thank you very much to both Steves
I will have a go at the weekend and let you know how I got on
thanks again
Morris

 

[shipbadger]

To come back to your search for wheels; I bought the 'official' Scheppach wheels, but they are identical to those sold by most of the big suppliers. I'd wait for a Rutlands 10% off weekend, bought my last three wheel kits from them. Makes the p/t very easy to move, very handy if you want to put long pieces of wood through once in a while.

Tony Comber

 

[Orcamesh]

thank you very much to both Steves
I will have a go at the weekend and let you know how I got on
thanks again
Morris

Hi Morris

Well, I have just finished resetting my P/T tables and blades today so I quickly added it to my blog which you can access from the link below...

I hope it helps you in some small way or even someone else out there? I've got the old (20 yrs old) HMT260 so I suspect your newer one will be quite different, but you never know it may help in some way, let me know if you have any questions or feedback.

http://www.orcamesh.com/Orcamesh/Mu.../2011/4/3_Planer_Thicknesser_Maintenance.html

cheers
Steve

 

[CroppyBoy1798]

Good stuff!! I got a Scheppach HM2-Kombi last week (its essentially the same to the HMS 260) the only difference being that you can pop optional extras onto the rear of it; spindle molder, table saw, milling table etc.

She was made in 1988 and looks like it still has the original and very blunt blades in it, so I'm gonna have to tackle it! I think I got the table leveling sorted out fairly quick. Just loosened up the outfeed table (all the bolts securing it, including the nuts holding the cam locking lever) clamped two lenghts of t-slot to the infeed and then clamped the (now loose) outfeed table up to the t slot bars and moved the nuts up to meet it and tightened up all the nuts/bolts. Looks pretty flat and feels solid, so I'm happy.....for now. Gonna have to do it again though I reckon! (hammer)

 

[Orcamesh]

Good stuff!! I got a Scheppach HM2-Kombi last week (its essentially the same to the HMS 260) the only difference being that you can pop optional extras onto the rear of it; spindle molder, table saw, milling table etc.

She was made in 1988 and looks like it still has the original and very blunt blades in it, so I'm gonna have to tackle it! I think I got the table leveling sorted out fairly quick. Just loosened up the outfeed table (all the bolts securing it, including the nuts holding the cam locking lever) clamped two lenghts of t-slot to the infeed and then clamped the (now loose) outfeed table up to the t slot bars and moved the nuts up to meet it and tightened up all the nuts/bolts. Looks pretty flat and feels solid, so I'm happy.....for now. Gonna have to do it again though I reckon! (hammer)

Hi CroppyBoy

OK cool, your T-slot idea sounds another good way of doing this. Sounds like you'll have it all sorted pretty fast!

cheers
Steve

 

[Recky33]

Steve, welding magnets http://www.google.co.uk/products/catalo ... DcQ8wIwAQ# will hold your straight edge down better, just use 2 of them

Allan

 

[Orcamesh]

Steve, welding magnets http://www.google.co.uk/products/catalo ... DcQ8wIwAQ# will hold your straight edge down better, just use 2 of them

Allan

Yep, that's also a great idea Allan, thanks for that. I will be off to buy some of those they look really useful.

cheers
Steve

 

[scholar]

thanks Steve for your help, already been in touch with nma toolsand Alan send me 5 pictures with a bit or writing which I could hardly read and did not help much
I was hoping to find some one on the site with the same ps.how to ajust the table

There is some good advice from a few people already (will come back and read Hawk Moths notes later - thanks)

I have the larger Scheppach p/t and found the adjustment instructions from NMA pretty useful, but you need to spend some time with them, figuring out the various adjustment bolts yourself and then the instructions with the handwritten notes do make sense.

There is one shortcoming in the NMA notes, however, and this is that they assume that the main spindle that holds the planer blades is correctly lined up with the thicknessing table - mine was not which meant that no matter how well I got the infeed and outfeed table lined up to the blade/shaft, the thicknessing table would always be out.

The only part of the whole p/t that cannot be adjusted is the thicknessing table (except rather drastic step changes by slipping one tooth on one or more of the 4 cogs on the chain, but forget that, unless the machine was wrongly assembled).

Therefore, the correct method to get the whole machine properly lined up is to reference off the thicknesser table; so step one is to find two reliable blocks and a feeler gauge etc to first measure the gap between thicknesser table and spindle body and if necessary adjust the position on one side of the spindle body fixing (I am doing this note from memory as I am not at home, so I cannot recall precisely which bolts I adjusted etc) - I used two blocks of 25mm mdf that I checked all round for consistency with a micrometer. Once you have done this step, then follow the NMA instructions to adjust the infeed/outfeed tables if necessary.

I did mean to drop Richard (one of the really helpful guys at NMA) a note on this, but have never got round to it - hopefully they might add this bit to their instructions.

Your time will be rewarded with a really reliable square set up.


Hope that helps

Cheers

 

[promhandicam]

Steve, welding magnets http://www.google.co.uk/products/catalo ... DcQ8wIwAQ# will hold your straight edge down better, just use 2 of them

Allan

Yep, that's also a great idea Allan, thanks for that. I will be off to buy some of those they look really useful.

cheers
Steve

Just check before you spend your money that the tables are made from a ferrous metal - some of the older scheppach tables were aluminium I think.

 

[morrispark]

Hi guys finially got the tables set & blades after along drawn out process,outfeed first then infeed like you said Steve.The bades wernt the best could anybody tell me where to buy some desent blades from,looked round the net and they varie quite abit in price. Had afew hair pulling moments but hopefully done now, havent had time to play yet and wheal kit is sorted thanks to the forum for all the advise cheers guys.

 

[promhandicam]

I buy mine from appleby woodturnings.

 

[Orcamesh]

Scholar - I also have the NMA notes which have undoubtedly helped me, although they are photocopies and most of the photos/pics are impossible to see. But without NMA I would be lost for sure. I have never had a problem with the thicknessing table so haven't ventured into performing it's re-alignment. But your advice on checking this is certainly valid and worthwhile before adjusting the planing tables.

Promhandicam - yep, good point. Although if there is enough weight in the device then it may just sit on top of a non-ferrous metallic surface, and the magnet attaching the straight edge (as an alternative to how I did it with v-blocks and clamps) to the welding block may be enough to hold it all in position? My HMT260 has a ferrous body so these will work for me at least.

Morris - sounds like you've made good progress, so well done. I know how tedious and frustrating this job can be. Not sure where best place is to buy blades as I am still using the ones which came with the machine. Maybe someone else can help. Best of luck!

Thanks all
Steve

 

[morrispark]

Looked at Appelby woodturnings they had slotted blades for Sheppach machines, but the blades in mine are not slotted dont know if originals are or not? cheers