Scheppach planer knife setup problems

pidgeonpost · 16 Feb 2006

Hello folks....I have just spent an unhappy hour or so trying to set up the planer knives on my HMS260 planer after having them reground.
The manual describes the process well enough, and provides a small metal gauge with which to do the job. The gauge sits on the infeed table, and you line up a scribed mark on the gauge with the edge of the table. The idea is that you raise or lower the knife so that the knife picks up the gauge, and moves it no further than the second scribed mark on the gauge.
Trouble is, either the knives protrude too far, and move the gauge beyond the recommended limit, or when I retract the blades (even about 1/8th of a turn or less) the knives retract so that the gauge is lifted, but not moved to the second (recommended) point.
The cutter block slots are perfectly clean, as are all the other gubbins, and I'm wondering if theres a better way of doing this. I understand that adjustment is critical to ensure accuracy, avoid vibration, terminal injury etc. Anyone have any clues or recommendations please?

ike · 16 Feb 2006

It's is tricky to get just right. The trouble is the adjusting screws could do with a finer pitch. My technique after fiddling in a similar fashion to start with is to lightly nip the clamping screws, before bringing the blade upwards.

It is unfortunately just a fiddly task.

Ike

Big Jim · 17 Feb 2006

I sympathize with you as I found exactly the same problems in setting up my jointer(different brand).
There was only one thing to do and that was clear the workshop so that the swearing could not be heard and get into it again and again until the settings were correct.
It took me a day and a half to get it right and I'm sure that was by luck. Murphy then had a hand in this and a week later I found the safety guard had dropped onto the cutter head! Start Again!
I eventually bought a magnetic setting jig but to be honest the blades contacting the gauge was just as accurate.
Good luck.
Big Jim

ike · 17 Feb 2006

the knives retract so that the gauge is lifted, but not moved to the second (recommended) point.

Re-reading your post made me think. I don't think it is essential that the blade setting has to move the gauge exactly 3mm. Anything between just 'kissing' it and moving it the full 3mm. The difference in height between these 'limits' is very slight and in my experience of setting this machine quite a few times over the years, is that it won't noticably affect the planing performance.

When you mention 'the gauge is lifted' but not moved'. Do you keep the gauge pressed onto the table as you rotate the knife? If not, you should so that you can get better 'feedback' of the blade contact, and the adjusting process will become more consistent.

You'll get the 'feel' of it after a while. I can change and set my blades on average in less than 45 minutes. TBH, I wouldn't mind betting, blade setting is painstaking on most (non-industrial) machines.

cheers,

Ike

pidgeonpost · 17 Feb 2006

...thanks for the info folks. At least I know that the frustration is of a shared nature, maybe even the law of Sod, and not just me! I shall have another go at it this evening hopefully.
As regards keeping the gauge pressed reasonably firmly to the table, I've not done this as the gauge is made of steel, and I didn't want to risk damaging the newly sharpened edge. Talking to someone else today they suggested that I use an accurately planed piece of timber, and adjust so that the knife just kisses the timber, so maybe that too is an alternative.
If I really really really still have problems I'll be back!

Thanks again....

Waka · 17 Feb 2006

Having had the same frustrations in the past with setting planer blades I invested in the two magnetic gadgets from Rutlands, not cheap but well worth the money, these fit over the drum at each end and the setting of the blades is done very quickly and I have to say accurately.

Hope this helps