Scary Sharp Revelation

[Chems]

On all those (6?) waterstones/oil stones and dry grinders I know you have you must also have some extra bits for doing your gouges plus veritas blade holders and the like. Go an have a really good look an see what was spent on sharpening. Thats what I did to justify the Tormek cause £230 is a lot of money in my book, tallied up what I'd need for the various methods.

 

[Doug B]

I can't get a certain ringing out of my ears recently. My doctor says it's tinnitus but it sounds more like bonimo or gorido or something or other :-k :duno:

Is that ringing getting any louder since the bash Tom :wink: :lol:

 

[wizer]

Chems, I don't own the 7 diamond stones any more. Hence my outlay for scary sharp is £45

If you want to include the grinder and the turning jig then we're up to about £150 all in.

To get the Tormek with all the relevant jigs is much more than £230 unless you manage to pick one up dirt cheap on eBay which is true of any woodworking object.

 

[Mr Ed]

Although its the basis on which I bought mine about 6 years ago, I now don't think the Tormek is the solution to the whole spectrum of sharpening requirements. I could do what I use mine for with a £50 grinder and a Norton 3X stone.

I have never achieved an edge as good as with hand honing, regardless of the sharpening abrasive being used.

Ed

 

[Dave S]

Although its the basis on which I bought mine about 6 years ago, I now don't think the Tormek is the solution to the whole spectrum of sharpening requirements. I could do what I use mine for with a £50 grinder and a Norton 3X stone.

I have never achieved an edge as good as with hand honing, regardless of the sharpening abrasive being used.

Ed

Although I have the much cheaper Scheppach 'copy', my experience is the same. I use it as a glorified grinder - all honing done using waterstones.

Dave

 

[Chems]

Chems, I don't own the 7 diamond stones any more. Hence my outlay for scary sharp is £45

If you want to include the grinder and the turning jig then we're up to about £150 all in.

To get the Tormek with all the relevant jigs is much more than £230 unless you manage to pick one up dirt cheap on eBay which is true of any woodworking object.

You still have to count the money on the diamond stones as the path to get to your chosen sharpening choice.

I bought my Tormek from Northampton Woodworking centre for £230 its a T3 model and came with the jig needed for plane irons and chisels the only type of edges tools I have.

 

[wizer]

You still have to count the money on the diamond stones as the path to get to your chosen sharpening choice.

Why?? My point is that my initial outlay for scary sharp is £45. I have sold the diamonds and didn't loose a penny on them. So it's quite irrelevant.

I bought my Tormek from Northampton Woodworking centre for £230 its a T3 model and came with the jig needed for plane irons and chisels the only type of edges tools I have.

My initial point on this still stands. You've spent £230 on something that cost me less than £100.

I'm sure you're happy with the Tormek. But my point is that it's vastly more expensive than my current preferred method.

Everyone has their preferences. This is mine.


Also, judging by yesterday's demo, I'd suggest Philly would take up your 'challenge'.

 

[Philly]

Tom
I think I might make a little Youtube video on this - I'm off to borrow a camcorder!
Cheers
Philly

 

[Oryxdesign]

Is it going to be a scary video.

 

[Aled Dafis]

Tom
I think I might make a little Youtube video on this - I'm off to borrow a camcorder!
Cheers
Philly

Great news, I was going to ask whether you could post a few pics of your low tech approach to sharpening as mentioned in Waka's bash. A video would be even better.

Thanks in advance.

Aled

 

[Philly]

Is it going to be a scary video.

If you can see my face it will be scary...... :wink: :lol:

Will do, Aled!

Cheers
Philly

 

[wizer]

Is it going to be a scary video.

If you can see my face it will be scary...... :wink: :lol:

Agreed

 

[matthewwh]

The thing I don't understand is why the tormek breed of grinders are both slow and wet. Surely this employs two solutions to the same problem.

An industrial wet grinding wheel spins at about 90mph but beacuse it's water cooled, won't alter the heat treatment of a blade. A slow grinding wheel cuts fast because it is dry but also won't adversely effect the blade.

As Philly says, the most sensible grinding option available for the home workshop at the moment is the Norton 3X wheel which is a curious blend of fine enough to work with yet aggressive enough not to cause heat build up even if used on a standard bench grinder.

Secondary bevels are not just about better results they also save a massive amount of steel. Doing all your sharpening on a grinder is fine as long as you don't mind going through plane irons and chisels at ten times the rate that everyone else does.

 

[Chems]

An industrial wet grinding wheel spins at about 90mph but beacuse it's water cooled, won't alter the heat treatment of a blade. A slow grinding wheel cuts fast because it is dry but also won't adversely effect the blade.

I imagine with the spray it would be like sharpening in a monsoon tornado. I'm just imagining a Tormek with the wheel spinning at 90mph.

 

[dedee]

If I want a flat blade I like to use scary sharp but when a camber is required there is too much likelihood of the corners digging in and ripping the paper so I use oil and diamond stones.
Does the sticky backed paper reduce the tendency to tear?


Andy

 

[wizer]

It does tear. But I'd say if you only use the pull stroke the it wouldn't tear as much. I'll try it and let you know.

 

[woodbloke]

Does the sticky backed paper reduce the tendency to tear?

Andy

The papers will tear even on the pull stroke. A minute burr or a little bit of swarf on the bevel being honed (ie trapped 'twixt the paper and the bevel) will cause it to tear. All I do now is to make sure that there's no dust or crud on the paper before hand and I have a quick feel of the bevel to make sure it's clean - Rob

 

[jimi43]

Interesting topic and one that has no definitive answer...simply because, as previously stated...we all have our favourite method.

That being said, I use and almost exact amateur equivalent and I have to say ALL of my planes and chisels are blinkin' lethal.

My kit is a piece of marble (the fabricated stuff) from a kitchen top...which is really flat...Onto this I use 3M Micro Mesh with a touch of Camelia oil...which I got to protect the metal of my tools, both of these from eBay cheap.

The 3M Micro Mesh sheets are not cheap but they are superb value.

I used very thin double-sided tape to affix the sheets to the marble.

These methods do require elbow grease but the results are so good and at the end of the day...I find the whole process very therapeutic...

I don't know if it is my imagination but I think you really notice the difference between good steel and rubbish! If not simply by the time it takes to get good steel to a perfect edge!

I look forward to the comments of other members...here is where we learn and try other things!

Jim

 

[devonwoody]

Jim, dont drop a chisel in the direction of your foot then. :wink:

 

[jimi43]

Jim, dont drop a chisel in the direction of your foot then. :wink:

ALWAYS wear steel toecaps mate....ALWAYS....and the times I have needed to!

Jim