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Well, I used the demo saw a fair amount over the weekend. I was making four bookcases from mdf (to be painted) and cut most of the parts on saturday. I have to say that I regretted having to hand it back today so I shall most probably buy one.

It was very light yet powerful, it has a max cut of 40mm (probably 42 mm in practice) . Initially I thought I would buy its bigger brother but it was very light and controllable. 40mm is probably a good size of cut and is adequate for me. Also the flextrack just sits there with no hint of slip without clamping so it is very quick to set up.

I cut a lot of 18mm mdf using a used blade which it handled with ease. The flexiguide was easy to use and accurate, just limited in length but I didn't need to cut anything beyond its limits. The quality of the cut was good and at 90 degrees.

A big plus was dust extraction, I had to make up a 'special' (with duct tape) connector to join it to my shop vac (a cheap Earlex) but very little got away thereafter.

That's it really, it just did the job I want it for. and then all folded up into its little box - neat. I could spend time looking at Festool and spending more money but this seems a good value for money product suited to my needs.

Colin
 
colin, glad you liked the saw, and would remind you that most
work tops are no thicker than 40 mm, and much panel work
is only 18 or 25 mm then the 40 becomes a very serious alternative.

paul :wink:
 
engineer one":1nxdusek said:
colin, glad you liked the saw, and would remind you that most
work tops are no thicker than 40 mm, and much panel work
is only 18 or 25 mm then the 40 becomes a very serious alternative.

paul :wink:

Yes I liked the light weight of the 40mm saw, and I think that I don't need a greater depth than that. The odd piece of worktop is the thickest I should ever need to cut (famous last words).

The dealer has advised me that Mafell have brought out a new rigid track system which suits the 40 but am waiting for more info on it just to see the costs.

colin
 
Just to conclude the thread....

I decided that the flexsystem was so light, easy and felt so safe to use that I could live with the limitations of length of the track and depth of cut so I bought one today.

Interestingly, I just read another thread discussing sawboards and had already decided that for the long cuts I'd do just that, so I probably won't be buying the aluminium track. Compared to my old Black & Decker this saw is so powerful yet so smooth that I expect it will do a fantastic job on an accurate 8ft sawboard - the old one had such wobbly bearings that I think I misunderstood what a portable saw could do.

I have to say that the opportunity to use one before buying was invaluable - if you return it and miss it then that's good in my book. I was equally impressed (if not surprised) to be offered one at a price that compared favourably with those I have seen from the mail-order people. Just another reason to use your friendly local tool shop - in this case Jaymac in Derby.

Thanks to everyone for your input - as I get older I get more miserly and get stressed when spending money, so the advice is appreciated!!!

colin
 
Colin, if you're cutting veneered mdf or similar, to eliminate all chipping, set the saw to cut just 3mm deep, and begin a cut at the far side cutting towards yourself. The riving knife will push up to allow this. The saw is climb cutting but won't run on at this depth. Then plunge to full depth and cut the board right through by pushing it away from yourself back to the start. this way both top and bottom of the cut are made by teeth entering the board, you have a portable scoring saw!

I don't use the clamps for shorter cuts, but I do for awkward jobs, say like cutting an 8x4 into two 4x4s, and always when double cutting as above.
 
Ivan, thanks for that suggestion, I'll try it out on some scrap pieces. I have always used masking tape on the cuts as I find that helps too.

regards

Colin
 
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