Saw Set

[Joe]

Does anyone know were I might get a saw set designed for saws with 20 plus tpi?

Thanks

Joel

 

[bugbear]

Does anyone know were I might get a saw set designed for saws with 20 plus tpi?

Thanks

Joel

I don't *think* such a thing exists. Most uses for a saw that fine don't need set anyway!

BugBear

 

[andy king]

Hi Joel,

you can try here
I can't do these shortened urls! But I can, DaveL with my MOD hat on :lol:
Anyway, Tools for working wood are an American company, and the owner Joel Moskowitz is a member here and a thoughroughly nice guy and exceptionally helpful and knowledgable.

hope this helps.

Andy

 

[dunbarhamlin]

Hi Joe
Joel does have the Eclipse clones from Somax (with the silly back to front handles.)

Though Joel's site suggests they're good up to 26tpi, I think 16tpi (as suggested on Dieter Schmidt's site) is more realistic without filing the plunger - unless of course, Joel doctors them beforehand? Could be worth a call.

Note also that the design of the grip (try to keep your fingers stationary whilst moving your hand forward) means there is a tendency (for me, anyway) for the tool to act like a wrest, distorting the plate.

Could try Mr Klausz' screwdriver twist to set the teeth, but agree probably don't need any set this fine - the burr is likely to be enough.
(I'm not good with teeth this fine - yet)

Cheers
Steve

 

[pedder]

Does anyone know were I might get a saw set designed for saws with 20 plus tpi?

Thanks

Joel

Hi Joel,

for these fine teeth the burr from filing should be enough set. If you alternate the filing direction.

Cheers Pedder

 

[Joe]

Thanks for the feedback. I spoke to someone helpful at Tools for Working Wood who said that the 26tpi capacity of the fine saw set advertised on their web-site was a bit optimistic, possibly even a typo, but that they use them to set 18 tpi saws without any problem. Anyhow, I ordered one so I'll let you know how I get on. I realise that I might not need any set at all for cutting dovetails, but as I'm new to handsaw sharpening I'd like to experiment a bit. It looks like a tricky skill to get the hang of, but remembering the epiphany I experienced the first time I sharpened a plane blade properly I think it could be worth it.

Joel

 

[Digit]

We old 'uns used to to use a hammer and nail punch. With the saw set in the jaws of a vice it's surprisingly quick and easy once you get the hang of it.

Roy.

 

[andy king]

I can't do these shortened urls! But I can, DaveL with my MOD hat on

Show off!!! :lol:

Cheers Dave!

Andy

 

[David C]

A method which I believe was used, was an anvil plate with a slope towards one long edge.

Teeth were set with a small punch, the set being limited by the sloped surface.

David

 

[Digit]

The way I was taught was thus. Two pieces of angle iron in an engineer's vice with the saw clamped between them and with the base of the teeth level with the angle iron.
With the punch held in the left hand and resting on the vice a constant angle can be held, and with the teeth so supported it is nearly impossible to get it wrong as long as you maintain a fairly even tap with a small hammer.
With practice it is certainly quicker than the conventional 'squeeze' type setting tool.
Mind you, I now use Japanese type saws with disposable blades, that's even quicker!

Roy. :lol:

 

[bugbear]

Thanks for the feedback. I spoke to someone helpful at Tools for Working Wood who said that the 26tpi capacity of the fine saw set advertised on their web-site was a bit optimistic, possibly even a typo, but that they use them to set 18 tpi saws without any problem. Anyhow, I ordered one so I'll let you know how I get on. I realise that I might not need any set at all for cutting dovetails, but as I'm new to handsaw sharpening

I'd practise on something easier than a superfine DT saw if I were you.

BugBear

 

[bugbear]

A method which I believe was used, was an anvil plate with a slope towards one long edge.

Teeth were set with a small punch, the set being limited by the sloped surface.

David

As in this pamphlet, although they used a hammer, not a punch.

http://www.toolemera.com/Manufacturers/ ... l%20Womack

BugBear

 

[Joe]

I'd practise on something easier than a superfine DT saw if I were you.

BugBear

I was planning to practice on an old Disston cross-cut saw (a D8 I think). Or maybe I'll visit Bristol Design and look for a rip saw with something in the order of 5 tpi. Thanks for the link to Toolemera - lots of interesting stuff here.

Joel

 

[Digit]

If the punch is held at an angle to the teeth and the saw is held in the vice with the base of the teeth level with the angle iron support, the whole process is not too difficult at all.
Obviously, as in most things, practise makes things easier.

Roy.

 

[Joe]

If the punch is held at an angle to the teeth and the saw is held in the vice with the base of the teeth level with the angle iron support, the whole process is not too difficult at all.
Obviously, as in most things, practise makes things easier.

Roy.

When you say "at an angle" Roy, do you mean in the vertical plane i.e. with the hammer end of the punch lower than the point in contact with the teeth?

Joel

 

[Digit]

In the vertical plane Joel with the hammer end higher, that tends to control the angle that the tooth is set over at.
The angle iron, or other support behind the tooth, needs a hard corner to it or there is a tendency for the tooth to try and bend below the base of the teeth.
I hope that makes sense.

Roy.

 

[Harbo]

I have been reading a lot on saw sharpening and pretty sure I read somewhere that filing the teeth, in the sharpening process, will generate "enough" set especially on a 26TPI?
So far I have worked on 16TPI but would dread to work on 26!!

Rod

 

[Joe]

In the vertical plane Joel with the hammer end higher, that tends to control the angle that the tooth is set over at.
The angle iron, or other support behind the tooth, needs a hard corner to it or there is a tendency for the tooth to try and bend below the base of the teeth.
I hope that makes sense.

Yes, thanks Roy, makes perfect sense. Sounds simple, but I bet there is quite an art to it!

I have been reading a lot on saw sharpening and pretty sure I read somewhere that filing the teeth, in the sharpening process, will generate "enough" set especially on a 26TPI?
So far I have worked on 16TPI but would dread to work on 26!!

Isn't the idea that the file burrs create adequate clearance on fine saws? How did you get on with the 16TPI, Rod? I have a set of those visor type magnifying lenses that give a clear view of fine teeth, but also give me a headache after about 30 seconds.

 

[Harbo]

I use the cheapo Anglepoise type Clarke with built in light from Machine Mart.

Practised first on a 12TPI Rip Dovetail (I know I should have done a 5 or 8 handsaw first but did not have one knackered enough).
Both not perfect but not that bad - they cut OK.
I am trying to perfect a Brent Beach Filing Jig (link through Bugbear I think?) to try some crosscuts.

Once you go finer than 16TPI finding saw files becomes very difficult - probably have to use needle, micro or Japanese files?

Rod

 

[Digit]

Diamond files cut quicker but seem to produce a wider gullet, so I used to use a 'Swiss File'.

Roy.