Sash bar dimensions for historical windows

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I think steve355 is very nearly at the point where it’s definitely best to make the sash. it adds a little stress to not make a ****oo and allows you to run through the whole process learned upto now. I would suggest make spares for every bit( basically 3 bits) and make and mark as you go along(obviously only cut the 4 needed) this stage is important as it also removes the pressure a bit.

Yes, I have some free time today so I’m going to do one more attempt at a practice joint, then presuming that goes ok I will get on and make the sash.
 
Sorry Steve, I meant to include these images of the board found in the workshop
 

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.... In todays workshop it is easy, we can just use a coping saw, but coping saws don't seem to make an appearance in joiners kit until some time after about 1910. So what were they using to cut the scribe?
Good point, hadn't thought of that. Maybe sharp knife of some sort. Or mitres instead of scribes - just a few well aimed chops with a sharp chisel
.... I cant help but feel the scribing templates were mostly a tool merchants sales ploy, and experienced old time joiners just used the methods they had refined over a couple of hundred years.
Twas ever thus. Some new tools catch on, most don't, but they may hang around for a long time confusing the issue!
 
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Just some thoughts on sash templates and scribing that might help you Steve. I have studied this subject for many years, and carried out all sorts of experiments to work out how, or even if, these templates were used. It's my experience that possibly about 90 percent of the templates I have examined (probably running into hundreds) look to to have had very little, if any use. They do appear to have been around for a long period of time, probably from at least 1800, and possibly a bit earlier, so they were not rare. What is interesting to work out is if they were not using them, how did they form the scribes accurately? I'm sure they were firstly cutting a mitre, then using this as a guide line to cut the scribe. The problem area for them was how to cut the glazing bar scribe. In todays workshop it is easy, we can just use a coping saw, but coping saws don't seem to make an appearance in joiners kit until some time after about 1910. So what were they using to cut the scribe? I'm absolutely sure they used scribing gouges. This is easily done on the scribes between the rails and stiles, but when it comes to the bars it is not so straight forward. The cut must be supported to prevent breakout. There were special gouges produced with a built in wooden stop, but these are relatively rare. I made a discovery in an abandoned workshop one day that may shed light on at least one method used. Laying on the bench was a piece of 1" softwood which had a reverse profile of a sash bar worked into it. at one end, a screw had been used as a stop, and at the other end of the board was evidence of hundreds of marks where a bench knife had been driven into the other end of the glazing bar to hold it firm. I strongly suspect this board was used to support the bar while the ends were scribed with the appropriate gouge. I still have my grandfathers tool chest that was originally put together by a previous joiner in about 1870. it contains a set of scribing blocks complete with the number 1, and 2 sash ovolo planes, also a matching scribing gouge. It is interesting to note that the planes, and the scribing blocks appear to be virtually unused, while the scribing gouge has seen what looks to be many hundreds of hours use. I cant help but feel the scribing templates were mostly a tool merchants sales ploy, and experienced old time joiners just used the methods they had refined over a couple of hundred years.

Johnny , that’s really interesting, thanks for that. The mitering prior to the scribe is shown in the “door and window making” book. One of those little mitre blocks you show in the pic are used.

That “reverse profile of a sash bar” profile is almost impossible to execute without a specialised plane (i actually made one a while back), unless it’s done in 2 halves using a hollow plane. Can you remember if it was screwed together?




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Johnny , that’s really interesting, thanks for that. The mitering prior to the scribe is shown in the “door and window making” book. One of those little mitre blocks you show in the pic are used.

That “reverse profile of a sash bar” profile is almost impossible to execute without a specialised plane (i actually made one a while back), unless it’s done in 2 halves using a hollow plane. Can you remember if it was screwed together?




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Hi Steve. No, it was cut from the solid. If I had to make one I would possibly just use a plough plane and an appropriate sized round.
 
Sorry Steve, I meant to include these images of the board found in the workshop

Aha I see - yes I’ve seen a video somewhere on YouTube where a similar board is used. Basically a sticking board but gives full support to the bar once one side has been planed .
 
Yes, I have some free time today so I’m going to do one more attempt at a practice joint, then presuming that goes ok I will get on and make the sash.

Well, I got my head around the franked joint at last. It’s not very good but it seems structurally correct. Now to lay out my sash bits and cut 4 of them.

 
Johnny , that’s really interesting, thanks for that. The mitering prior to the scribe is shown in the “door and window making” book. One of those little mitre blocks you show in the pic are used.

That “reverse profile of a sash bar” profile is almost impossible to execute without a specialised plane
That's why I thought my sample would have been spindle moulded. I didn't know these planes existed.
(i actually made one a while back), unless it’s done in 2 halves using a hollow plane. ....
Ahah! I wondered where you had obtained one of these mysterious, very rare and hardly ever used planes! That explains it.
I guess they were dropped early on as they didn't live up to their promise - the story of many tool innovations and still about 95% of the catalogue items of most new tool dealers even today.
 
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That's why I thought my sample would have been spindle moulded. I didn't know these planes existed.

Ahah! I wondered where you had obtained one of these mysterious, very rare and hardly ever used planes! That explains it.
I guess they were dropped early on as they didn't live up to their promise - the story of many tool innovations and still about 95% of the catalogue items of most new tool dealers even today.
That particular plane was based on one in the plane making booklet be W J Armour (pretty much the only historical text on plane making) where it shows a plane used for making sash templates. I copied it - kind of - I actually made a rabbet plane and profiled it to the shape of a template-making plane.

Luckily I do all this as a hobby and for interest.
 
Hi Steve. I knew I had a picture somewhere. It's not quite the same set up as yours as I was using a cove and astragal mould as apposed to an ovolo, and this was mitred instead of scribed, but the franking procedure is just the same
Forgot to ask - have you a photo of the rail end? It looks potentially difficult what with having to cut out the little extra mortice and that thin wall to the mortice on the stile. Or just cut the wall away? Why not full width mortice & tenon to match the flat?
 
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Looking for "frank" again and it seems in many books only to refer to the crossover of glazing bars.
I'm beginning to think that the so-called "franked" stile/rail joint is just a vestige of the fully scribed joint which was briefly in fashion thanks to the plane makers of that era, and is not a very good idea.
Odd coincidence that the sample from my box is the fully scribed version but I saved it (I think) because of the "coved quirked astragal" moulding which I replicated in a set of windows, but with normal haunched tenons.
Easy to replicate the moulding with home made spindle cutters, very difficult to replicate by hand without the matching plane from Mathieson et al.

https://chestofbooks.com/architecture/Builder-Joints/Joiners-Joints-Part-3.html
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Looking for "story stick" / "rod etc.
The rod (full size drawing on a board) is described in the same way in most of the old books and is well established and a normal process, even in later books such as WB McKay
The "story stick" is not in any of the old books except as the familiar floor height "story rod" for staircase makers primarily. PS except American books.
But it flourishes on the interweb - endless youtubes etc.
I've concluded that story "sticks" are an attempt to re-invent the largely forgotten "rod".
You'd need a rod anyway to get your information together for a story stick.
Bring back the rod!
 
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Forgot to ask - have you a photo of the rail end? It looks potentially difficult what with having to cut out the little extra mortice and that thin wall to the mortice on the stile. Or just cut the wall away? Why not full width mortice & tenon to match the flat?
 

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Right. Your first photo earlier looked like motice narrower than the "flat" but it seems not. I was interested because the M&T on my sample is narrower, but for a reason.
 
Just checking out Charles Hayward. in "Cabinet Making for Beginners"
He describes the rod much as all the others do, whether cabinet or door/window making. He talks about sale drawings as part of the design process then moves on to:
“Full-size drawing"
This may be undertaken to see exactly what the piece of furniture will look like, to enable proportions to be adjusted and to fix finally the various widths and thicknesses.
Such a drawing is generally prepared on detail or cartridge paper and when completed is stood up against the wall so that it can be properly seen.”


then talks about drawing board T and set squares, then comes to the point of full size, for the maker.

“One important reason for full sizing is that it will enable you to make the piece without possibility of error, and and to work out any problem of construction or detail or section. In this case
(he’s talking about a chest of drawers)
you need only show certain parts.
What is known as a rod or skid is prepared…”


So "skid" is a new word but otherwise they all sing from the same sheet: this is what you do.
He's a bit vague about how you take dimensions from the rod, but in fact if you want to remove possibility of error you drop components on to the drawing and take them off directly, without any intermediate measuring.
Non of the British writers say anything about story sticks, poles etc unless they talk of staircases and "story rods".
Oddly, if you google there is very little about the rod at all, you get nonsense like this but then the interweb came along well after trad techniques like the rod had started to be forgotten.
Even modern writers like Paul (Mr Sensible) Sellers don't seem to be aware of this basic and essential technique.
Lost Art Press are working on Hayward, does this mean they may rediscover the rod (or skid)? I wouldn't count on it!
 
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Oddly, if you google there is very little about the rod at all, but then the interweb came along well after trad techniques like the rod had started to be forgotten.
Possibly because once CAD came along, there wasn't so much need for someone to draw up a same size rod drawing on detail paper, so the job got quickly forgotten and not interesting enough to remember.
You had to be very precise in your technical drawing skills and the writing of instructions, because a blunder could prove expensive. You would put on the critical dimensions and leave the maker to measure or scale the rest off the drawing.
I can quite imagine a joinery or furniture manufacturer of a period having rolls of their detail paper rods, beautifully drawn and annotated in ink, stored in the attic. They would probably (definitely) all have got thrown out once they became obsolete because that's what happened to ours.
I still have my 3ft beam compass. But I have never heard the word "skid" before.
 
Possibly because once CAD came along, there wasn't so much need for someone to draw up a same size rod drawing on detail paper, so the job got quickly forgotten and not interesting enough to remember.
Yes but they go on at length about story "sticks". We are talking of trad techniques pre CAD, as still used by many small operators, believe it or not!
Often wondered - how do you get from CAD to marking up and cutting woodwork, as unless you have a full size printer you can't do a rod
You had to be very precise in your technical drawing skills
No more precise than the woodwork?
 
Yes, sorry - might be cross purposes here. All I'm saying is that rods were common practice in my job. What I meant about precise drawing skills is that you could not hand over a sloppy drawing to a maker. You would get murdered.
 
...
I can quite imagine a joinery or furniture manufacturer of a period having rolls of their detail paper rods, beautifully drawn and annotated in ink, stored in the attic. They would probably (definitely) all have got thrown out once they became obsolete because that's what happened to ours.
.....
Lots of variations on the theme but in general your beautifully full size drawings would be the final stage in the design process, whereas "the rod" would be the functional workshop drawing derived from it, on stiff paper or a board so that it can survive the workshop environment, particularly the laying on of components so that marks can be taken off without an intermediate process of measuring. The measuring is all done and dusted, all details sorted out, everything fitting together, and you are on autopilot, without a tape measure even!
Maybe it's lack of basic drafting skills which leads to people trying to work without it? I admit I had a bit of training on the drawing board - still got the first one - but it isn't difficult.
 
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Often wondered - how do you get from CAD to marking up and cutting woodwork, as unless you have a full size printer you can't do a rod
Oh, that's simple, Jacob: CAD to CNC machine, said a bit tongue in cheek.

Funnily enough I just last week disposed of my A1+ paper size parallel motion drawing board which I'd owned for about thirty years, it being a replacement for an older one. I took it to the charity shop. Somebody might buy it and use it, I suppose. I got rid of it because I hadn't used that drawing board for perhaps twenty years although I still have a small A3 drawing board plus all the drafting tools - squares, pens, compasses, scale rules etc. The truth is that I do 97%+ of my drawing digitally nowadays, mostly on Fusion 360, but there's still often a need to create from those digital drawings or orthographic projections full sized rods for the reasons you've given.

An irritant I experience with some designers/drafters who present you with digitally drafted working drawings is their unfamiliarity with the layout of orthographic projections. They're sometimes unaware of things like first angle or third angle projection and elevations and/or sections appear in odd illogical places along with occasionally presenting drawings that somehow randomly switch between first and third angle projection on the same sheet, which can lead to misunderstandings at the workbench... and even to errors in construction Slainte.
 
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