Sanding acrylic

[wabbitpoo]

Advice please on achieving a really polished surface. eg types of abrasives, grit numbers, etc.

Never tried using it but I have a blank now. Are super-sharp tools even more important than with wood?

 

[mikec]

Hi Wabbit,

I don't use acrylic a lot but have found sharp tools are essential, dull tools can cause the acrylic to melt.

I finish with very fine wet and dry paper (800 - 1000 grit).
A final polish can be done with silver or brass polish but the best I have found is burnishing cream from Chestnut (other burnishing creams may be as good!!).

At first it seems to be cloudy but continued burnishing brings up a deep shine.

When I used to finish the edges of acrylic sheet I used a heat gun to get a really clear finish after sanding. Don't know if this would work on turned acrylic. Lots of potential for a disaster! :shock:

Regards,

Mike C

 

[beejay]

Hi Mike,
I find it best to wet sand up to 1200 wet&dry and at that point you can apply brasso, chrome polish from car accessory places, or something similar and it will give you a gloss finish. You can buff as well if you wish.
Another way is to add an extra step after the 1200 and use micromesh from 3600 through to 12000, yes thousand, and then finish with the brasso or similar.
The gloss will then be very deep. Some also give a finish coat of Renaissance polish to retain the gloss and keep fingerprints at bay.
Regards, Bill

 

[wabbitpoo]

thanks for input. where does one buy such fine grades?!

 

[Terry Smart]

Another tip is to use a lubricant of some kind when sanding the acrylics. We've found our Lemon Oil to be very good at this (it can be used on timber too for a 'dry sanding' type effect) although I'm sure other products will do the job.

 

[Daven]

Have a look here I use the pads on wood pens and they are very good - not tried acrylic only dymondwood blanks!

Dave

 

[beejay]

thanks for input. where does one buy such fine grades?!

The wet and dry can usually be found at your local car accessory depot, that will take you to the 1200 stage.
Micromesh can be sourced on ebay and a good place is:
http://www.theturnersworkshop.co.uk/sto ... prod_id=35
Its available in sheet form as well
Micromesh is washable/re useable and does last a long time.
Dont apply a lot of pressure when using it as this can melt the pad surface.
It can also be used wet.
regards, Bill

 

[Oryxdesign]

Another vote for Brasso, use the old fashioned looking one at a fairly high speed.

 

[wabbitpoo]

thanks to all.

 

[jasonB]

I've used the micro mesh which goes down to 12000g and then their cream, on clear acrylic it will give a glass clear surface.

I bought the kit at the top of this page

Jason

 

[penman]

You can also get Micromesh fron Craft Supplies. You can also use Tcut for finishing acrylic pens.

Good luck
Malcolm

PS
Yes it is expensive but it lasts a long time, you just wash it in warm water let it dry and off you go again.
Malcolm

 

[greggy]

I've used the micro mesh which goes down to 12000g and then their cream, on clear acrylic it will give a glass clear surface.

I bought the kit at the top of this page

Jason

crickey, thats expensive, i dont pay that much for bigger sheets.

 

[Derek Willis.]

I bought the polishing sticks from Axminster, or try Rustins Burnishing Cream, this is especially designed for the job. Axminster, page 490.
Derek.