Rust Removal Using Electrolysis

[Dangermouse]

Hi all
Just finished setting up my equipment and tried it out on a rusty no6 iron cap. didn't think it would be sooooooo good. Cap came out of the electrolytic bath like new. Was so in a hurry to see what it could do that I forgot to take photo's. Will post before and after for the next item and see what you guys think. Its amazingly simple and only uses washing soda, a stainless steel tub ( I used an old deep fat fryer pan ) and a battery charger. Photo's to follow.

 

[theartfulbodger]

Interested in seeing the before and after pictures

I used to sell these
http://www.qwicksilver.co.uk/

a long time ago, used for safely removing tarnish (sulphur) from metals.

 

[CroppyBoy1798]

It is amazingly simple isnt it, and sort of addictive too, suddenly you'll be searching out all manner of rusty items just to stick them in the solution and clean them up, even if theyre not exactly important, just the idea of seeing what they'll look like after is part of the pleasure!

Why using a stainless steel bucket though? Are you using that as the sacreficial element? I use a plastic bucket with a number of scrap metal strips clamped around it .

 

[Dangermouse]

Why using a stainless steel bucket though? Are you using that as the sacreficial element? I use a plastic bucket with a number of scrap metal strips clamped around it .

Having read a fair bit about it on the 'net it seems to get the best results you need as much of the item as possible to be surrounded with the anode metal, some say stainless is best others say mild steel is best. but the only thing i have at the moment is this SS fryer bucket. so saves me making a wrap-around anode. Nothing unsafe about it as the voltage is only 6 volts. when it wears out will replace it, maybe with a mild steel can or drum, see if that works better or worse.

 

[jimi43]

I was thinking about this last post today and remembered something about NOT using stainless steel and then I found it...

DO NOT USE STAINLESS STEEL!

Electrolysis with a stainless steel anode will put extremely toxic chromates into the solution. Disposing of this solution is dangerous and very illegal. Just be safe and use a non-plated carbon steel. If you need to buy some, get rebar. It is cheap and works well.

I am not sure of the accuracy of this statement but I would't risk it.

Jim

 

[matthewwh]

An alternative is this stuff: Restore

Safe, disposable, ph neutral, highly effective, dilutes 19-1 in ordinary tap water, non-acidic, harmless to plastics, rubber and non ferrous metals, works like a charm and leaves surfaces protected from futher corrosion.

 

[Dangermouse]

Will get a nice thick ordinary steel drum , I think. Better safe than sorry.

 

[Pvt_Ryan]

I used a plastic bucket and table salt. Though you need to do that outside as it produces CL2 (Chlorine Gas) which isn't exactly good for you and H2 (Hydrogen Gas) which if the mix with oxygen is right will go boom.

If you are up for a laugh you can trap the Hydrogen in a paper cone with a small hole in it, then use a burning bit of paper and push it into the hole and you have a hydrogen rocket. Good for impressing the kids..

 

[Sean Hellman]

It is, as you say, easy and additive, with brilliant results. I have cleaned saws, chisels and axes, with very little effort

Do not use stainless steel, it is not legal to dispose of the liquid, if you do it is very environmentally dangerous/poisonous, as has been said before in this post.