Rust Protection - Corrosion inhibiting paper and/or wax

[aesmith]

Hi,
I need to up my rust precautions. I have all sorts of stuff that can be used when things are in storage and will be cleaned off before use. Not so much for protecting tools that are in use.

What do people think about the "VCI" paper that you see offered, would that help for tools normally boxed?

Also thought any thoughts on "Renaissance Wax" etc, any benefit over common or garden wax. Thinking in terms of something that wouldn't have to be cleaned off before use.

Thanks,

 

[pgrbff]

It is quite common to use camelia oil. I have used ballistol gun oil in the past and also metall-protect from Felder.

 

[johnnyb]

Any wax is OK. I have used the vci pads successfully. Camellia oil whilst OK isn't great at rust protection and is a bit sticky after a while. Quality thin oil is as good as owt.(oil for sharpening is great hydraulic oil as well)

 

[aesmith]

For those using oil, say on a chisel or the outside of a plane, do you wipe it off before use? To pick random products I wouldn't want 3-in-1 or WD40 getting onto the work. But maybe traces some of the vegetable oils are OK.

What's kicked this off was finding a recent bloom of rust on a plane that had been resting on a cardboard box in the cupboard. The plane inside the box also affected where it touched cardboard. Luckily I caught it early so easily cleaned off.

 

[pgrbff]

My workshop is an old cowshed, half buried in the hill, stone walls with no mortar so damp. I find metall-protect from Felder works and should be ok on timber as it is designed to protect iron surfaces on woodworking machines. I have a rag next to the spray and just wipe tools after use.

 

[Sideways]

Camelia oil is cute, traditional and nice and thin. It's good for tools that are in frequent use. Wipe it on in daily use and don't expect it to protect tools for much more than a week or two if you put them away.
There is a clear, hydrogenated mineral oil alternative - sewing machine type oil - that is cheap in bulk and sticks stubbornly to the surface of metal even when you are handling it. Hydrogenation means it resists curing and rubbing off. Instead this thin wet film is stubborn.
Used like camelia it's cheaper and probably better.

I don't rate VPI paper too much. It relies on emitting a vapour that protects the tools. If you are constantly opening and closing a toolbox, the vapour can't build up and the paper will soon exhaust itself. Lose-lose.

Silica gel in a more or less airtight toolbox is great. Not too costly to buy, absorbs loads of moisture from the air reducing humidity and countering condensation. 50 or 100g bags and throw them in the microwave to regenerate it every few months. They should last for years.

(Microwave full power 30-60 sec, then 15 to 20 minutes on defrost setting should dry out 100-200g) watch the steam

 

[paulrbarnard]

I use renaissance wax on most of my in use tools. It works reasonably well. I use camelia oil on blades after I sharpen them. For things being stored away I use AFC50.

 

[Paultheroamer]

Does ACF50 leave a sticky residue on the tools?

 

[paulrbarnard]

Does ACF50 leave a sticky residue on the tools?

Yes if you leave it on. You can spray then wipe and it seems to still do the job. If you want to store the tools in a bucket of salt water then spray it on thick and leave it. It comes off easy enough with some thinners.

 

[Filament]

I’ve heard some say that silica gel can make wooden handles crack due to making the atmosphere ‘too dry’ but wonder how much of that has osmotically made its way from marketing guff from manufacturers of the ‘our sachets create a dry and oily environment hence cost £1m each’ sector.
Anyone found this happens at all?

 

[Sideways]

I’ve heard some say that silica gel can make wooden handles crack due to making the atmosphere ‘too dry’ but wonder how much of that has osmotically made its way from marketing guff from manufacturers of the ‘our sachets create a dry and oily environment hence cost £1m each’ sector.
Anyone found this happens at all?

It may have some truth.
I just took some planes out of storage in an airtight case with ample silica gel. One was a new-to-me secondhand plane and I noticed the rear handle was slighly loose. Just the thought of "I must nip that up". I can't remember if it was slack when I put it away, so it might have dried and shrunk a touch in the box.