Running cables behind dot and dab plasterboard?

[Sideways]

I hate the thought of a cable following some random path inside a wall. The electrical regs don't apply to this but the intuitive place for cables to run is still straight up, down or sideways from each outlet and in a (fairly) straight line.
I'd want to go up or down to ceiling or skirting, then along.

Look at the "flat rat" by super rod. It's a plastic fish tape that may suit the job better than their rods and will be cheaper to buy.

Me, I just bought a soundbar and a wireless active sub. Trying to run cables for a 5.1 or 7.1 home theatre setup would have been a nightmare.

 

[flying haggis]

What sort of cables are you trying to hide, signal ie shielded or speaker? I have run cables under carpet by removing a half inch strip of underlay round the edge of the room just inside the gripper rods then stuck the cables down with duct tape and replaced the carpet. You can't see any bulge where the cables run.

 

[sploo]

Me, I just bought a soundbar and a wireless active sub. Trying to run cables for a 5.1 or 7.1 home theatre setup would have been a nightmare.

Did it at a previous place, but I completely remodelled the living room, so it was relatively easy to ensure there were channels for all the required cabling. At our currently place everything's "done" and I'd rather avoid ripping it apart.

What sort of cables are you trying to hide, signal ie shielded or speaker? I have run cables under carpet by removing a half inch strip of underlay round the edge of the room just inside the gripper rods then stuck the cables down with duct tape and replaced the carpet. You can't see any bulge where the cables run.

Speaker - just cables for carrying signals to a pair of subwoofers. Each sub is 8Ohm, and they're being run from an amp that claims a max of 440W into 8Ohm (for each channel).

No carpet/underlay here though; it's a wood floor.

 

[Matt_0222]

Not sure if you have a router, but how about a narrow 5mm router bit (or less if you it has a thin edge), run along a straight edge (floor, track, skirting) to a depth of 7-9mm (so not even through the plasterboard depth). Slot the cable in and easifill over the top. Should be easy to fill and no risk of catching other cables. You could use superglue to keep the wire in place before fill if used strategically. Bit unorthodox but might work.

Edit: Also wondering if the narrow edge of the cable is less than 2mm (ish) whether a circular or track saw would work for making the groove? You could use a multi tool carefully for the corners.

You’d have to be careful of any other cable drops but since you wouldn’t be going deeper than the plasterboard, you’re probably fine on that front too.

 

[MikeJhn]

Further to the above, perhaps a dovetail router bit would be better would hold the cable in place and the plaster infill.

 

[Stevekane]

We changed a lightswitch from one side of a door to the other last week, had to fiddle it down behind a dot an dab wall, I tapped the wall with my knuckle to pick out the dabs then drilled down the line to pick out the edges of the dabs, these I just chopped out then it was a hole up at ceiling level and I then shoved up a length of oval trunking from the switch hole right up into the ceiling, I was left with just a few dabs to fill in plus some small drill holes, so not a bad job and easy to fill when its just a slot around an inch wide.
Steve.

 

[point5clue]

A bit left field, but I bought a thermal camera for a little over £200 a few months ago - I've always wanted one, but a bit of subtle influence from Mateus Wandel on youtube pushed me over the line.

But, as well as tracing cables and pipes by magic, on a cold day I noticed you can clearly see the dabs on the exterior facing walls in our house - doesn't tell you the size of the gap, but might be enough to plan a route.

Anyway - just sharing out of interest - for anyone who has a tool buying addiction (no-one on this forum I'm sure!!!)

 

[sploo]

The "boss" has decreed that she'd rather me run the cable behind the little bit of skirting board and under a moulding in front of the patio doors; rather than try to cut holes in the wall and fish a cable through. I think the in-wall option would be better if it went well, but the skirting board/moulding option has fewer unknowns, so is probably the pragmatic solution.

If I had an endoscope already I'd be tempted to make a small hole in the plasterboard and take a look, but as I'd have to buy one I think I'll pass.

 

[Pedronicus]

A bit left field, but I bought a thermal camera for a little over £200 a few months ago - I've always wanted one, but a bit of subtle influence from Mateus Wandel on youtube pushed me over the line.

But, as well as tracing cables and pipes by magic, on a cold day I noticed you can clearly see the dabs on the exterior facing walls in our house - doesn't tell you the size of the gap, but might be enough to plan a route.

Anyway - just sharing out of interest - for anyone who has a tool buying addiction (no-one on this forum I'm sure!!!)

Out of interest which thermal camera did you purchase?

 

[trvlr]

Perhaps remember that if you go the notching the studs route (and equally any joists in the ceiling) to lay cable in those notches... wise to encapsulate them within that notch in some form of conduit; oval (plastic) may be suffice. Even better if on a wall situation, a metal plate over the notch to at least give some protection; and that metal plate will allow stud finders etc. a chance to know where there are cables passing through - lest per chance someone decides to drill there whatever reason.

 

[Matt_0222]

You can also get wall radars like the Bosch D-tech 200. Makita does one as well. This would alllow you to actually see through the plasterboard and find the dabs I suspect. Not cheap mind you! you could buy on eBay and then resell on eBay for less though.

 

[DRC]

The "boss" has decreed that she'd rather me run the cable behind the little bit of skirting board and under a moulding in front of the patio doors; rather than try to cut holes in the wall and fish a cable through. I think the in-wall option would be better if it went well, but the skirting board/moulding option has fewer unknowns, so is probably the pragmatic solution.

If I had an endoscope already I'd be tempted to make a small hole in the plasterboard and take a look, but as I'd have to buy one I think I'll pass.

Endoscopes with a light that do actually work, are quite relatively cheap now,, once I got one I've used it on numerous occasions which I had never thought of previously to owning one.

 

[sploo]

Endoscopes with a light that do actually work, are quite relatively cheap now,, once I got one I've used it on numerous occasions which I had never thought of previously to owning one.

I bought (a cheap) one a while back but it was DOA. Never got round to bothering to try another (and can't justify the money for a decent one).

 

[Dibs-h]

Out of interest which thermal camera did you purchase?

I bought one of these a year ago -

https://www.topdon.com/products/ITC629
Cracking bit of kit. Available on the Bay & Amazon.

 

[Pedronicus]

I bought one of these a year ago -

https://www.topdon.com/products/ITC629
Cracking bit of kit. Available on the Bay & Amazon.