Rout'R'Lift

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
A

Anonymous

Guest
Anybody got experience of the Jessum router table system marketed by Rutlands?

I'm on the verge of ordering the Rout'R'Lift to fit into a new table set-up I'm working on, but thought I'd ask around first.
 
Big Dunk":305p5e4a said:
Anybody got experience of the Jessum router table system marketed by Rutlands?

I'm on the verge of ordering the Rout'R'Lift to fit into a new table set-up I'm working on, but thought I'd ask around first.
Cant help you with the Rout'R'lift but if it's made anything like the Jessem Mitre fence you wont grumble, it is a superbly built piece of kit. :)
 
The rout r lift works well but dust can get on the screw threads which trys to bind them up it helps if you wind back then up again or arrange easy access and brush it off .Its quite large so any rails in the table end up a distance from the bit and you need to extend the collets so a good router with good bearings is required once this is all arranged the height adjustment and speed/accuracy is great.
 
I use a "Router Raizer" with my DW625 which works fine for me and a much cheaper alternative - about £70 from Wood Workers Workshop. It modifies the router and can be used on and off the table. I also bought an extension chuck but have never had to use it so far as the Raizer gives lots of controlled movement.

I also use a Woodpecker's "LeRoute" table top on a home made base unit which I based approx. on Norm's Table. Woodpecker do a lovely fence system too but mine is a Rousseau which I "won" on Ebay for £18.
 
ShopNotes No87 pages 38 to 41 reviewed router lifts - if you cannot get a copy send me a PM with an e mail address
Barry
 
Hi Dunk
I have the Rout-R-Lift, I got it from Axminster about 2-3years ago(Axminster brand it as the Rout-A-Lift) although it is made by Jessem.
I have fitted it in my own hand built router table, a good piece of kit I have never regretted paying the money for it. I have the Hitachi M12 fitted to it

If you would like to see it in action, you are welcome to call over, I live a mile from Junction 6 on the M57.

Send me PM and and we can arrange a time

EDIT I had to get a special cranked spanner from Somerfield in USA, to allow above table bit changing
 
I use a Jessem Rout'R'Lift in one of their own tables and have found it very reliable a great bit of kit... :wink:
 
Hi Dunk,
The router lift is a superb bit of kit. I cant believe I spent years messing around the way I did. As has already been mentioned the screw threads and the raising plate can become clogged. Bugger all really. I did buy an arbour extender from Wealdon's, and I sometimes have bit of trouble getting the spanner under some of my larger Raised panelling bits.
Other than that I can't recommend it highly enough. The fence and attached sliding mitre-fence are also in the 'buy if you can afford ' category.
Decklan
 
Well, I still don't know what router Dunk is proposing to use, but there's no way I'd spend £169.95 when I could get a new router for less that has the above-table adjustment feature built in.

If I spent really wisely, I could even get one that had above-the-table bit changing built in too (without the need for a collet extension), but that depends upon the required power. If 2.25HP is enough, job done.

If up to 3.25HP is required, I'd still prefer above-the-table changing and an easy-to-use fine adjuster and a built-in rack and pinion raising system.

Mind you, I'm biased! :)

Ray.
 
As Ray says the Triton Router(baby) comes with its own crank handle for above the table use but both Triton's allow for easy above the table bit change without the need for a expensive router lift. Another option is to use the Router Raizer at less than half the cost.
Barry
 
Thanks for the help guys!

I will more than likely be using a DW625 - simply because I've got a few of them.

I currently run 4 router tables which I leave set up with my most used cutters - profile, scribe, panel raise, and round-over. This enables me to knock out a R&F panelled door in around 10 minutes without any set-up time.

What I need the lift for is a new table - for all the little jobs requiring fine adjustment but which I don't want to use the spindle moulder for. I've had a Triton and in principle it's great - however the plastic construction and poor build quality make it inadequate in a busy production workshop. Mine lasted about 3 months!

I'm currently torn between the Jessum, the Axminster version, and the Unilift.

Any more contributions welcome!

Dunk
 
I'm still going to argue the case for the Unilift.

I think that there is not just the issue of the lift to consider, the mounting plate is important too. As several people have said machines from Trend and Triton have a good adjustment system but you do also need to source an accurate and rigid mounting for the router too. It is no good having a big powerful router in a flexible support, it will degrade the quality and accuracy of the cut.

I can only speak about my experience with the Unilift, but it has a very substantial alloy plate with eight grub screws around its perimeter which allows very accurate levelling to the table so I get an absolutely smoothe transition of the leading edge of the work from table to plate to table with no catching.

It also comes with three very well fitting insert rings of various diameters and a further range is available as an add-on. These rings are accurately machined, absolutely flush when engaged, yet quick and easy to fit.

The whole structure of the unit is substantial in complete contrast to my earlier plastic mounting plate where I could take hold of the router and wobble it with very little effort.

The Unilift comes with a substantial brass starting pin which screws into the plate, a very complete range of screws to suit a range of different routers, a well designed crank handle which fits into two different locations and a ball ended allen key which fits the brake on the height adjustment. Another useful feature.

The only possible negative feature to be aware of is that it is is calibrated in imperial units not metric. 1 turn of the handle = 1/32 inch. Also the plate surface carries two scales allowing fairly accurate location of the fence relative to the router axis which are imperial too. I'm fluent in both so it's not an issue for me but could confuse the metric only people.

Yes it is expensive, and you can save money if you wish, but I have never regretted buying mine. To be honest, when I took it and the fittings out of its box I was amazed at what you get for the money and I'm a bit of a tight-wad!

If you are fitting this to a shop made top and time is money then a ready-made template is available to assist with machining the cut out. I made my own which took a little time to get perfect but it worked fine and saved some money. I have saved it in case it's of use to anyone else close by.

Mine came from Roger at Woodworkers Workshop whose level of service has always seemed exemplary - he did make a bit of a packing error with this order but then passed what I think is the critical test of a supplier - how they deal with a problem, in this case put right within 24hrs.

Anyway, thats just the opinion of one man with no experience of your stated alternatives, but I hope useful nontheless.

regards,

Colin
 
I don't think the Triton would be a suitable choice for use in the Unilift.

From what I can gather, you set your router onto full plunge and then all adjustments (including bit changing) are accomplished with the Unilift.

With the Triton you would have to reach under to turn off the router and then plunge the router to it's full depth to lock it to enable bit changing, which kind of defeats the object of using the Unilift in the first place.

Just my thoughts on a suitable router for the Unilift.

Chris.
 
Made up your mind yet??? :?

After having been on the router (rout-r-lift)all day today, a couple more points have come to mind.
When I am using tall bits, I have found mysef checking the vertical of the bit. Never had any major problems, but have noticed that if I manually push the bit (not excessively hard, but hard enough to imitate a very heavy cut, ) there is a small, but evident amount of play.Perhaps 1mm, and slightly more if I push harder.
I have dealt with this by putting a block between the body of the router and the rise and fall pillars, as the movement appears to be at the junction of the mounting plate and the rise and fall pillars.The Router is a DW 625.This has eliminated virtually all movement. On the plus side , the crank handle has very accurate measuring increments, and is labelled in both metric and imperial.

Having said all that, I am sure that which ever you choose you will give you excellent service. Any machine which is supported on only one side is always going to be prone to such movement, especially considering the weight and function of a router.

Decklan
 
Poor build quality, Dunk?
I have found the build quality of my Tritons to be excellent.
Interesting. What routers don't have plastic in their make-up?

Standing back and waiting for the flak!

SF
 

Latest posts

Back
Top