Routing for beginners (and routing tables)

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billw

The Tattooed One
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So I will at some point need to get a router, I’ll probably get a Trend one but I’m not sure I’ll need to get a 1/2” one unless there’s some chronic shortcomings of the 1/4” ones.

Whilst designing my workshop I figured I might as well incorporate a router table into one of the units, but the more I look at the internet the more confusing it gets.

The whole issue of inserts, tracks, fences, guides, etc appears very expensive - to the point where wondering how it’s cheaper than just buying a table. So what is essential to make a home table?
 
I made mine with a few extra tracks and slots....... and tbh I think I've only ever used the fence.
I made the insert myself from a 3/8" thick piece of Ali (about 12"x8"), thats about it, the rest is ply and mdf

The only real cost was the ali plate - and I use milling machines at work, so it wasn't a problem to make the inserts for the centre.


Just fyi, Triton maker 2 routers designed to be either hand held or mounted into a table (MOF001 & TRA001), so no need for a router lift. Might be worth looking at if you go for home made
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At a basic level, what's essential is a flat surface with a hole in it, a router mounted so that the cutter sticks up through that hole, and a straight fence that can be moved around and locked in place. That'll get you going, and in theory you can do 90% or more of router table work on that. The rest is convenience, but some of those conveniences make a big difference.

T tracks are generally the easiest and most reliable way to have a movable, lockable fence. I'm sure it's possible to build a functional table without them, but I'm not sure why you would. As for the insert, what you need depends on the type of work you're doing and what range of cutters you need - if you've just got a fixed hole, it obviously needs to be big enough to accommodate the biggest cutter you'll use. At the same time, you want to minimise the amount of unsupported work around the cutter. Hence if you're using a wide range of cutter diameters (the most obvious case being straight cutters and winged slotting cutters) then a proper insert plate with removable rings is a good idea.

Of course, even with those basics, what's essential depends on what you're going to do with it. Your fence probably wants to be straight, but if you're only ever going to use it with the workpiece face down on the table, then it doesn't strictly need to be square (i.e. vertical). Of course, having it not square will restrict you in the future because you won't have a vertical reference, but an un-square fence is better than no fence (as long as you know it's not square).

As for the 1/4" versus 1/2" question: larger or more elaborately shaped cutters will only be available in 1/2" shank. Even for smaller ones available in both sizes, a 1/2" shank is far more rigid and precise than 1/4". I initially bought a 1/4" router because my garage has no mains supply so I wanted it cordless, but when I got a table I immediately got a 1/2" router (the Triton MOF001 that Peri mentioned) to go in it - the increased capability of it is well worth having to run an extension cable to use it. Pretty much any 1/2" router will have a 1/4" collet available (if not included), so I'd say get one of those first, and add a 1/4" trim router later if you find yourself doing lots of handheld work for edge profiles and the like.
 
this is mine.....table was less than 100euros, has independant adjustable fences, have a 3hp Hitachi 1/2" router slung under it.....I have another one for hand work......more than 1/2 doz 1/4" routers but they seldom get used now.....easier to go for the big'uns.....the extra weight makes them more stable.....
this table will easily work on long architraves with a bit of extra support, infeed-outfeed....esp as I work alone......
must have cut miles of trim with it.....
depending how much work it needs to do I also take/use a mobile Kitty spindle moulder.....my needs are/were portability........
I do have prof machines in the workshop but the above was the kit that went in the van.....

Trend is a good make but don't buy cheap.....they always let u down and they just dont feel nice in ur hand.....
seem to remember that the Hitachi's were around £300 each but that was around 20 years ago and they are still working, perhaps not quite so hard now.....
IMG_5867.jpeg
 
For what it's worth, I have a Trend T5 and a CraftPro table. The T5 has a 1/4" collet and I have found it to be fine. Got them from FFX

Trend T7EK 230V 1/2in Variable Speed Router £139 inc VAT free delivey

The Router table @£232 inc Vat etc is cheaper than buying from Trend and you then have to add Vat.
 
this is mine.....table was less than 100euros, has independant adjustable fences, have a 3hp Hitachi 1/2" router slung under it.....I have another one for hand work......more than 1/2 doz 1/4" routers but they seldom get used now.....easier to go for the big'uns.....the extra weight makes them more stable.....
this table will easily work on long architraves with a bit of extra support, infeed-outfeed....esp as I work alone......
must have cut miles of trim with it.....
depending how much work it needs to do I also take/use a mobile Kitty spindle moulder.....my needs are/were portability........
I do have prof machines in the workshop but the above was the kit that went in the van.....

Trend is a good make but don't buy cheap.....they always let u down and they just dont feel nice in ur hand.....
seem to remember that the Hitachi's were around £300 each but that was around 20 years ago and they are still working, perhaps not quite so hard now.....
View attachment 96176
How heavy is it!
 
I was going to suggest the rutland one but it seems to have got very expensive.
 
I was about to say, don't mess about, get a 1/2" router. Then I remembered that for many years this was my only router table,

Elu-Table-01.jpg


The Elu 96 1/4" router in the little Elu table top router table.

Sure, there were restrictions, but taken overall it worked superbly, in particular the very tall fence is brilliant at tackling routing on an edge, where the hand held router and fence are often inclined to wobble and throw out the accuracy.

I've seen this sell for not much over £100 including the router!
 
I was going to suggest the rutland one but it seems to have got very expensive.

Yeah that and Axminster are crazy prices, even for the components. This was why I was wondering where to get cheaper tracks and fences from!
 
Depends what you want to use the Router for. I only use mine occasionally, so made my table using an old formica top kitchen table. Took the legs off, hinged the side to hang under the top om my wall bench and fitted a couple of swing down legs to support when in use. For the fence, I built this with a dust extraction tube and set it up using a couple of clamps. Works well, cost virtually nothing and got the idea from looking at this and other sites on woodworking. You-tube is good, just ask for making router table. If it wasn't for the Covid, I would suggest you pop over and take a look, but not at present. Using a Triton 1/2" router that has its own 'lift'
IMG_4502.JPG
 
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I was in your position about 6 months ago... though probably with less knowledge.

On the Trend website there is a list of authorised trainers who run one-to-one and group training sessions (Covid restrictions allowing).

Trend courses

I spent a day with Tony Chalk near Southampton in his workshop.

The cost was £180 for a one-to-one day of hands-on experience using the most basic router through to the very top of the line units, with routing bits that I never knew existed and created a lot of different things on the day, ranging from basic round-overs, various joints using the Trend Jigs through to panel doors and stencilled name plates.

Using the router tables and other add-ons opened my eyes to what might work for me.

No, I'm not part of the Trend marketing team (!), but as a (total) beginner I found the day to be invaluable and well worth the investment.
 
Coming from someone who only recently got into using the router properly on a table, I can guarantee that unless you spend upwards of £350 or £400, you aren't going to get a satisfactory router table (even then it is difficult)

Hence, if you are after a non-frustrating experience of using a router in a table, either go for a good quality table or build it yourself.

I know there are tons of tutorials online, but many are confusing.

I found this one quite helpful, combine this with a good Ali router insert plates (incra, kreg, ujk, trend) and you will be good to go.

https://www.wealdentool.com/kb/rons-tips/
 
Hello to all,
Does anyone know about the Excel 11051 table router, sold by Tools for Trade? I can’t find reviews anywhere, so I wondered whether anyone could advise me? Is the brand a reliable one? As a company, how do you find Tools for Trade? Any advice would be very welcome.
Stay safe.
 
Good old Banggood is the place to get your tracks and other items. Dirt cheap and they actually work. I've been (slowly) setting my workplace - garage - up and once I've sorted out my cyclone set-up, the next thing is my router table. Already got the worktop waiting to be cut up, the insert plate and all the tracks etc. My 1/2" Triton router will be sat in there. All it needs is time!
Have a look at Banggood and pay with Paypal, then wait for it all to arrive.
 
I'm building one of these as a temporary table until I build my new workshop as I need to rebate timbers for a new greenhouse I'm currently building:



I wanted to be able to transfer everything I buy (except the frame) to the new workshop, so I've chosen a quality birch ply (cut to size on eBay) and built my own top and fence, bought an Incra insert for my Triton TRA001, Incra tracks and knobs, and Rutland double featherboards. Great advice on this forum if you search around and some really good ideas on Youtube. You can save money if you use MDF and buy the metalwork etc on Banggood as Jester129 suggests. If you don't have a strong bench to clamp the above to then I was going to build this one:

 
Well @mikej460 I have to say that was an incredibly valuable 20 minutes watching! I love the whole flip top lid in the bench thing, might have to consider trying to build that in. Also shows that using some good quality kit can be incorporated into a much cheaper set up. Top marks!
 
As a person that is in only year three of their wood working journey (hence newbie Raf) I asked myself the same questions a couple of years ago. I ended up going for a Dewalt router and trend table, and had only you tube knowledge but never done it myself. I personally find routing really useful especially when needed grooves and round overs. The trend table was a couple of hundred quid - glad I did it. Personally I say don’t go cheap, future proof yourself as you will end up spending the same again for something better quality.
 
I looked at buying the axminster benchtop table and also the professional table. The cost of the table and all the ancillary bits was £500 min. Therefore I decided to build my own, I bought Bill Hylton "Woodworking with the Router" and used this for reference.
Phenolonic laminated birch ply (610mm x 610mm x 18mm) cost £12 from timber merchant and Trend insert cost £50. I used 2 x 1 for frame and put together using pocket screws. Fence is 18mm MDF and I got a piece of T track from Aximister (£10). Clarke NVR plug £25
I have made my own feather boards and currently making cross sled & other jigs etc.
Total build time including plans approx 2 days plus 1d practice for insert cutting. Total cost £100 and I have achieved functionality of the Axminster benchtop router. Plus great satisfaction and better understanding
 

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Total build time including plans approx 2 days plus 1d practice for insert cutting. Total cost £100 and I have achieved functionality of the Axminster benchtop router. Plus great satisfaction and better understanding

Nice job that Paul! Seeing that makes me realise that whilst the pro stuff looks really nice, the basic functionality is simple to achieve.
 

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