Router table build. Help please?

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thejhw

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Milverton, Somerset.
I am getting around to building my Router table.
I have an insert and a stand, and have been looking for the right top.
I have now inherited a length of Kitchen worktop. Chipboard, 39mm thick, 600mm wide and and long as I want it. (Actually 2460mm.)
This worktop has a black marble effect lamination on one side and the front edge which is rounded off.
My questions are: is that colour going to be any good? I would have thought that a lighter, perhaps white colour would be better for working?
Is the top going to be flat enough? I think it should be, and have read on previous threads that this worktop is being used.
Lastly, (for the present!), should I worry about laminating the underside?
I think that the sides and back can be protected by some solid wood edging, but I'm confused by the warping issue. If these tops stay flat in a kitchen, will it stay flat enough in a workshop?

Thanks for any and all comments.

Jim
 
short version yes, yes, no, yes :D

slightly longer version

the colour ought to be fine- my, admittedly rubbish, screwfix special is black and that hasnt troubled me.

yes it ought to be flat enough - thats why people use worktop rather than random bits of conti board

no I cant see any reason to laminate the underneath - except maybe aesthetics

and

yes it ought to be fine, unless your workshop is unusually damp - you might want to seal the cut ends with PU varnish or something to be on the safe side.
 
Thanks, BSM, I wasn't sure about the colour, all the tables I've seen are white or high-speed brushed ally. I didn't know if I was going to have to cover it with the fire-back or something. I'll give it a go and if I don't like it I guess I can alwys cover it later. (I think my insert has the adjustable corners.)

The lamination thing had me puzzled: for some reason I can only view half a dozen posts at a time on the search, but I keep on recalling comments about the need to laminate both sides, but again that might have been for MDF?

Well, I suppose the next thing will be to actually start :shock: on the project? And then I suppose I'll have to start using it. :?

Jim
 
People say you need to laminate both sides to stop the top warping. I don't buy that, I have mine only laminated on one side and no warping since I did it 6 months ago. A quick lick of PVA glue on the bottom to seal it would do the job if you were really worried.
 
isnt the whole point of using worktop rather than a lump of mdf that it is already laminated/coated with plastic/formica

i think the laminating issue only appplies if you are using unadulterated mdf
 
big soft moose":1ezsz2o2 said:
isnt the whole point of using worktop rather than a lump of mdf that it is already laminated/coated with plastic/formica

i think the laminating issue only appplies if you are using unadulterated mdf
I have used mdf and had no problem, mind you it is screwed down wherever it can be
 
Are you intending to use a router mounting plate? If not you will lose an unacceptable amount from your depth of cut. The dark colour shouldn't be a problem. If you need to draw lines on the table top, as you often do for making stopped chamfers, grooves etc, you can simply stick some masking tape to the table top and draw on that.
 
George_N":2yiobwuo said:
Are you intending to use a router mounting plate? If not you will lose an unacceptable amount from your depth of cut. The dark colour shouldn't be a problem. If you need to draw lines on the table top, as you often do for making stopped chamfers, grooves etc, you can simply stick some masking tape to the table top and draw on that.

Yes, when I said "insert" I actually meant mounting plate.
Good tip about the masking tape, thanks.

I was actually concerned about being able to distinguish where the work began and the table ended, but I guess I'm worrying unnecessarily.
Jim
 

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