Router choices, opinions required for a new woodworker!

[JJ1]

Is the router on Toolstation mentioned above the TRA001 model or MOF001 as it doest say?

Edit: It is also listed as 2000w whereas Tritons website advertises it at 2400w

The one I bought a couple of weeks ago is the TRA001. There's some confusion as to the exact wattage apparently, but whether it's listed as 2000w or 2400w, it is in fact exactly the same model I'm led to believe.
It's states 2400w on the outside of the box of the one I bought.

As far as I know, or so I was told, Toolstation are clearing their remaining stock of the Triton routers, which explains the decent price I guess.

 

[DMF]

Two models, the Triton MOF001 is 1400W i believe and the big boy at 2400W according to the label on mine.

Dean

 

[iNewbie]

There's a mention on the Triton site which states -in red- that the UK version is not 2400W, but 2000W

Triton


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[Tim_H]

I would avoid an Erbauer for a router table, I originally fitted one on my Dakota router table (special offer again from Rutlands). I had to take a handle off, cable tie the switch as it is a hold down rather than more helpful flip switch. The Erbauer is fine as a hand held router but I am much happier with the Draper under the table.

However I would agree with the motto buy cheap buy twice, so if you can afford it buy the best you can afford.

I suspect I will live to regret all the cheap tools I have collected over the years, however as a very amateur DIYer I still can not justify spending loads of money on tools I only use occasionally.

 

[JJ1]

Something else that is swaying me to Triton is the table they make which I can use the router lift handle on, also the compatibility between the 2 should mean I don't have to mess around drilling holes and making a mess of the whole thing.

I wouldn't let that sway your decision in the slightest. It's only a single hole you need to drill. It couldn't be easier and the Triton router base has a reference mark (notch) on the base that lets you mark precisely where the hole needs to be.

 

[DMF]

There's a mention on the Triton site which states -in red- that the UK version is not 2400W, but 2000W

Well that's just mean, taken 400w away from us! Looks like there's 3 models now and with the new range a change of motor for that one? But why UK only?I'd be tempted to find an older model and buy the height winder separately, before i got mine i read loads of positive comments going back a fair while and i like the idea of tried and tested.

 

[iNewbie]

i've heard its because we have a stiff-upper-lip and don't need the extra 400watts. :mrgreen:

 

[Eric The Viking]

US WW forums indicate the Triton power 'discrepancy' is because of different testing methodologies required in the EU and the USA. They also point out that the later ("B"?) model has 1/2" and 1/4" collets as opposed to the "A" model with a reducer sleeve (bad news) and that, at least in the USA, the later one comes complete with the winding handle for the table. That last bit is emphasized by the UK site too (that their stock has the winding handle).

I vaguely remember some people having trouble with the handle mech. that alters from plunge to table adjustment. I don't want to disparage Triton - I have no experience and no agenda either - but you might want to do a bit of Googling about reliability before committing.

There's what seems to be a common problem with the T10/T11/DEWalt/CMT ones in that the pulse-counter magnet slips off the shaft when left upside-down for long periods. It happened to mine, and to several other people on the forum, but the fix is simple - Loctite!

Nothing's perfect, I fear, and I also remember Steve Maskery commenting unfavourably about the concentricity of some 'industrial' models - the spindle should be dead centre to the baseplate. If it isn't, it limits how you can use it freehand, as the cut (when running it along a straightedge) won't be straight if you twist it. To an extent you can work around the problem with auxiliary bases and guide bushes, but you really shouldn't have to.

In that context, it's worth saying that the Trend T11 (and probably the others) came with a chunky 1/2" shank T-profile centring/setup pin. The fat part fits the inside of a standard 30mm bush snugly, but you could also use it to measure any lack of concentricity with a view to 'adjustment' if you wanted to (with a file on the perimeter of the baseplate).

I'd also mention that, whilst you can theoretically swap just the 1/2" and 1/4" collets over with the Elu/Trend/DW design, it's _much_ easier to buy a second collet nut and keep the collet fitted to the nut (swap both over together).

I suspect you've made a choice already, but the above might still be helpful.

E.

 

[DMF]

i've heard its because we have a stiff-upper-lip and don't need the extra 400watts. :mrgreen:

Ha! Still, makes we want to find out why for some reason, have our old motors be declared good for american safety standards but not ours, from other examples this may not be a good thing! Some googling later me thinks.

Eric, is it just the dust thing mainly on the power switch? Sounds like the new one may be able to be retrofitted? I just got mine second hand, table base, CS and table, router and table plus dust thing and a whole load of other stuff like bevel cutting guide for not a lot, its all as new apart from the saw table top so won't be too upset if it's worth spending a few quid.

Dean. (ps sorry OP if i'm now guilty of thread highjacking!)

 

[Virana]

No worries, I'm keeping up to date with this topic. I haven't actually purchased the router yet but came across a steal on Ebay which was for the Triton router table top, the workstand that it sits into and an Elu MOF96 router which I got for £130 so pleased with that.

I was tempted to sell the Elu router and stick a new Triton in there.

 

[yetloh]

I think that's a good plan. While the Elu is a good router (I have one myself) it is relatively low powered and has only a 1/4" collet.

Jim