Router bit size

[magicalwonders]

I think it goes in the spindle instead of the collet and is used to help you ensure that the spindle centre is on your drawn centreline.

G.

It has a bolt in one end that unscrews, along with a split ring washer. I've never seen anything like it in any of the videos on Routers. You may be right about its purpose, but it doesn't seem to be a popular accessory.

 

[magicalwonders]

Im not familier with the Trend T5 but I wonder why they say its not suitable for mounting in a table,,any ideas?
In fact Ive just looked at a T5 and it looks to be a copy of my old Elu Mof router presently hanging upside down in a cheap router table though Im happy to be corrected on this,,,
Perhaps there are subtle changes not immediately apparent to me?
And if you've looked on utube you will have seen that a very basic router table can be knocked up out of almost anything flat and sturdy.
Steve.

It's the T7.

It’s for centring the guide bush and/or aligning the router to a cut line.
No router is “made for” table use, they all have a number of design flaws that make them sub-optimal for that, but I can’t think of any that would not do it, certainly a Trend T-5 and T-11 are both fine for it

Cheers! The T7 seems to be a bit different. Here's what Trend have to say -

Unfortunately the T7 is the only Trend router which will not fit any of the Trend router tables directly. You can drill extra holes in the table's mounting plate to accept fixing holes in the T7's base, but the T7 also has a trigger switch, which will make it difficult to use with the no-volt release switch on the table. Regards, Darren (Trend Technical Adviser).

https://www.amazon.co.uk/ask/questions/asin/B005ASXBB2/ref=ask_atf_aqp_dp#

So I suppose you can do it, but not the best choice for using with table.

 

[clogs]

wouldn't be the first time anyone has taped the trigger in the on position and controlling the feed from the outside via another switch....

 

[TheTiddles]

It's the T7.



Cheers! The T7 seems to be a bit different. Here's what Trend have to say -

Amazon.co.uk: Customer Questions & Answers

So I suppose you can do it, but not the best choice for using with table.

Maybe not the best, but there’s nothing that that says you can’t

 

[Stevekane]

T7,,,oh balls,,,and looking at them they are nothing like a bloody old Elu Mof,,, but dont feel too bad about it because its quite normal for to have to drill holes in router table plates, my Bosch (I think it is) table had to be drilled to take the Elu router, and if you use a cable tie to hold on the trigger you will find that the NV switch on the table will still work as normal,,
Steve.

 

[Spectric]

Question why you need a no volts switch, they are treated as if a mandatory item but they are not, you are in a domestic setting and everything is under your control. Then when did you last have a power cut, not a protective device operating and you can see they are not essential in a home workshop. Ok it is another level of safety but my router table has no NVR switch, it is a simple easy access switch to allow operation, my pillar drill is foot operated with no NVR switch because it defaults to OFF. If it was a large piece of industrial equipment then you do want it to drop out on loss of just one phase and not restart, the same for many other industrial systems where a stop/start situation could be dangerous or damage equipment.

 

[The Bear]

The part you cannot identify is a trammel point, used to pivot around to cut a circle. Do not go sticking it in your collet or the spindle as has been suggested unless you want to get it jammed. A centering point can be very useful but that isn’t one.
Mark

 

[Nelly111s]

If you use a bearing guided cutter, you won’t need a table, just support for the length of MDF. A T7 will be fine for that.

 

[magicalwonders]

The part you cannot identify is a trammel point, used to pivot around to cut a circle. Do not go sticking it in your collet or the spindle as has been suggested unless you want to get it jammed. A centring point can be very useful but that isn’t one.
Mark

Cheers mark. I did wonder if it had anything to do with cutting circles, but couldn't get my head around how it would work. A quick online search shows Axminster Tools describing the product as being supplied with a Trammel Adaptor. The manual doesn't reference it like this but shows a tiny diagram, in which it describes the part as a centre pin. It's definitely the trammel adaptor!

 

[magicalwonders]

If you use a bearing guided cutter, you won’t need a table, just support for the length of MDF. A T7 will be fine for that.

Yes, I saw a YouTube video of a guy using a Roman Ogee bit by hand on a board, so I think I'll do the same for this job.

I'm going to be removing a relatively small amount of waste as I'll be making a bevel cut before routing.

I have a table I made for my track saw which should work well for supporting the boards.

 

[accipiter]

I'm a bit late to the party on this thread. Read all the replies and advice given.

If you're wanting to go with MDF I was going to suggest getting some Ogee architrave or skirting (available in MDF) and make up to the required height that way - you've already put that forward with your sketch anyway but with wood topping. Your photo of the existing skirting looks like ordinary Ogee anyway.

You'll save in buying cutters and then your time in setting up the router and doing the 100m (+) length, possibly messing some of the routing up and needing more material to replace... Seems like a lot of work on your part - although you'd probably not agree and would find the router work enjoyable

I did a quick Google search for "MDF Ogee skirting" and got quite a few possibles... So I'm most likely a party pooper in suggesting could also you look into going to a company like this one to get it made up as you want:
https://skirtingonline.co.uk/

 

[J-G]

@accipiter :
It seems you've missed some of the posts (or mis-interpreted the detail) - the skirting in question is 290-319mm high !! - non-standard in anyone's eyes - and the 'topping' is pre-painted MDF Architrave from Travis Perkins, already purchased.

 

[magicalwonders]

@accipiter :
It seems you've missed some of the posts (or mis-interpreted the detail) - the skirting in question is 290-319mm high !! - non-standard in anyone's eyes - and the 'topping' is pre-painted MDF Architrave from Travis Perkins, already purchased.

Yes, that's right. I did look around to check out the cost of pre-made, but the height I need makes it very expensive. This place does the height - Heritage Skirting Boards | Victorian MDF Skirting | Skirting 4 U - but it comes out at £1769 for 25mm. As there are three other rooms planned for next year it would put the cost over £2000.

As this is a complete renovation job (including loft conversion) I need to make savings where I can. Time is on my side, so I'm happy to put in the extra effort.

 

[accipiter]

@accipiter :
It seems you've missed some of the posts (or mis-interpreted the detail) - the skirting in question is 290-319mm high !! - non-standard in anyone's eyes - and the 'topping' is pre-painted MDF Architrave from Travis Perkins, already purchased.

Wouldn't surprise me today Been one of "those" so far. I would have stayed in bed if allowed to...

 

[J-G]

Wouldn't surprise me today Been one of "those" so far. I would have stayed in bed if allowed to...

Ah - that's where I have the advantage, I had an extra 3 hours sleep last night -- I got close to 8 hours - didn't know it was another day until 10:15

 

[accipiter]

Yes, that's right. I did look around to check out the cost of pre-made, but the height I need makes it very expensive. This place does the height - Heritage Skirting Boards | Victorian MDF Skirting | Skirting 4 U - but it comes out at £1769 for 25mm. As there are three other rooms planned for next year it would put the cost over £2000.

As this is a complete renovation job (including loft conversion) I need to make savings where I can. Time is on my side, so I'm happy to put in the extra effort.

As per reply to J-G... ... having a bad morning here

When I looked at the link I posted up (just as a suggested possible "route") the prices seemed "reasonable" BUT obviously wouldn't have been the same for your size - as I had noted the height AND the pre-purchased material for the tops... although I missed it being MDF and thought you'd said timber .

I was thinking of the part your are looking at routing yourself... and maybe these guys (or some other) would give you a pricefor that part so saving (?) you some time - and headache - in searching for appropriate cutters etc. Didn't put that bit though.

(I'm presently deep in thought - headache time - regarding a rocking chair project for my daughter in regards to design and sizes etc., and watching YouTube videos has added to the *headache* time - so Mayne I shouldn't have allowed myself to be distracted here )

Good luck in achieving your goal for the renovations

 

[accipiter]

Ah - that's where I have the advantage, I had an extra 3 hours sleep last night -- I got close to 8 hours - didn't know it was another day until 10:15

Can't remember the last time I got 8 hours kip... something I was looking forward to when I retired 4 years ago. Mind, time wise, one day seems to roll in to another now and time just vanishes when I don't need it to