Router Bit Question

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billw

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OK so I need to put some accurate 45 degree mitres on my work surface edges, and found this.....

45 Degree Chamfer (wealdentool.com)

Now I'm still a bit unsure about the whole "can all router bits be used both handheld and in a table" thing and this one is pretty large, so could I use this by putting the worksurface on top of a ply board, then running the bearing against the ply? I presume this way I wouldn't need any other guide, as long as I firmly clamped both boards together.
 
You can, but you'll have less than half of your router base supported so you'll need to be very careful to avoid tipping. If you make an extended base for your router it will help, so you can apply more pressure on the supported side.

Edit: like this
 
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I did this with one of the same cutters. You will need a very rigid setup, with consistent pressure at all times. I was disappointed with the result and I used the power feed on my woodrat.

It is a horrible joint in that it shows any slight imperfection. Now I have more tools than I did then and I would either make a shooting board or use my tracksaw if there was no avoiding the joint. Even when cut you have a joint that is a nuisance to clamp and any slight error in clamping shows. When you have finally cut it perfectly, then clamped it perfectly it is a weak joint and needs reinforcing!
 
It is a horrible joint in that it shows any slight imperfection. Now I have more tools than I did then and I would either make a shooting board or use my tracksaw if there was no avoiding the joint.

My other option is the tracksaw. I might try that first, if it doesn't work I have some slack in the piece for multiple attempts at getting it right using a different method.

Luckily the mitre is well supported underneath.
 
My other option is the tracksaw. I might try that first, if it doesn't work I have some slack in the piece for multiple attempts at getting it right using a different method.

Luckily the mitre is well supported underneath.

can you get some scrap and try it first? This will help Compound Miter Saw Calculator

sheet material would be ideal as a practice so that it removes the potential variable of thickness.
 
I would use a track saw also or if smaller widths then a site table saw I have. I'd only use the router for bevels myself.
 
I’ve used my tracksaw for a bunch of 45 degree full mitres. It does work but I really recommend practicing with some thick scrap and making sure it really is 45 degrees. My TS55 was very slightly out at the 45 mark and needed a bit of a nudge to get it to the correct angle (I was cutting 10” long mitre edges for a pillar foot). The saw is also slightly off balance at a 45 degree tilt so if your saw isn’t tight to the rail guide, you’ll spot it. It’s doable for an accurate cut but it takes some initial practice - my first few attempts were “interesting”. 😀

Whatever you do, you’ll want the rail clamped down tight. The balance of the saw means you really want the track held by something other than the friction strips.

The nice thing about the Festool is that the blade doesn’t move contact point wrt the rail when it swings over so, once it’s set up and you’re good, it’s bloody accurate.
 
OK so I need to put some accurate 45 degree mitres on my work surface edges, and found this.....

45 Degree Chamfer (wealdentool.com)

Now I'm still a bit unsure about the whole "can all router bits be used both handheld and in a table" thing and this one is pretty large, so could I use this by putting the worksurface on top of a ply board, then running the bearing against the ply? I presume this way I wouldn't need any other guide, as long as I firmly clamped both boards together.
Hi mate, if you use a portable router the baseplate has one straight on it. If you work with the full rounded edge on your workpiece keeping pressure on then you will never tip over and the beauty is the bearing cutter will follow accurately the shape of the edges you are working on. Best wishes.....Joe
 
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