Router bit for planing/surfacing

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MikeJhn":c2u41cpb said:
European oak straight out of the planer thicknesser.



Am I missing something here Guys?

Mike


What you are missing is the word "wide" from the original posting, presumably when he says 'wide' it means too wide for the PT.

Andy
 
MikeJhn":3v6ojzkw said:
In which case he will have to pass over it multiple times, but you are all guessing, I just asked a basic question of the OP i.e. can't you use a planer thicknesser?

Mike


I can't see that working you would have a step unless you where very careful, and it wouldn't fit the thicknesser without ripping it down.

Pete
 
Wow, I didn't realise this was such an unusual thing?

I have a thicknesser that takes a max of 317mm. My boards are 400mm+.

The established way of doing this is building a router sled and going at the plank with a straight/bowl/surfacing router cutter to plane/thickness the plank as required. Lots of information on the net about doing it.

Thanks to all of those who have posted advice :).
 
Its obviously not an unusual thing except to me, I would rip the plank in half and edge joint them back together after planing, but that's my take on it.

Mike
 
id take it to a joinery shop with a bigger planer thicknesser and get them to do it for a drink :wink:
 
Hello,

It is one of the ways to get things such as massive live edged boards flat.

Imagine trying to haul a 3 inch thick by 8 ft long by 36 inch wide slab across a surface planer, even if you had one that wide! It is tedious, but reduces the amount of handplaning.

Mike.
 
I surface plane all my live edge slabs by hand. One day, if I get (more!) decrepit, I might think about a router jig, but for the present it's no more than an hour or so of brisk exercise, and it's more pleasant standing knee deep in shavings than spluttering in clouds of dust.

Here's a slab I did by hand, I probably do eight or ten of these a year. With a sharp plane it's really no big deal even on hard tropical timbers, with a slab of Oak or Elm it's a breeze.

Bubinga-Desk.jpg
 

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3 inches thick by 8ft long by 36 inch wide, "hernia" look out now, here I come, I'm gona get chew. :shock:

Mike
 
custard":2uk3ryd3 said:
I surface plane all my live edge slabs by hand. One day, if I get (more!) decrepit, I might think about a router jig, but for the present it's no more than an hour or so of brisk exercise, and it's more pleasant standing knee deep in shavings than spluttering in clouds of dust.

Here's a slab I did by hand, I probably do eight or ten of these a year. With a sharp plane it's really no big deal even on hard tropical timbers, with a slab of Oak or Elm it's a breeze.


With arthritis in my hands elbows and shoulders I wouldn't last two pass's, Oh to be young again.

Even if I could stand up that long that is.

Mike
 
custard":2mth8ofg said:
I surface plane all my live edge slabs by hand. One day, if I get (more!) decrepit, I might think about a router jig, but for the present it's no more than an hour or so of brisk exercise, and it's more pleasant standing knee deep in shavings than spluttering in clouds of dust.

Here's a slab I did by hand, I probably do eight or ten of these a year. With a sharp plane it's really no big deal even on hard tropical timbers, with a slab of Oak or Elm it's a breeze.


Hello,

Aw, you could have lifted that little slab onto the surface planer, you are just being lazy!

Mike.
 
custard":3ihluy7s said:
I surface plane all my live edge slabs by hand. One day, if I get (more!) decrepit, I might think about a router jig, but for the present it's no more than an hour or so of brisk exercise, and it's more pleasant standing knee deep in shavings than spluttering in clouds of dust.

Here's a slab I did by hand, I probably do eight or ten of these a year. With a sharp plane it's really no big deal even on hard tropical timbers, with a slab of Oak or Elm it's a breeze.



What's your process for something like this Custard, I mean what planes would you use in what order?
 
MikeJhn":1006ppw9 said:

With arthritis in my hands elbows and shoulders I wouldn't last two pass's, Oh to be young again.

Even if I could stand up that long that is.

Mike


Exactly, Mike. Me too, plus trigger finger in two fingers. I have to back off on things such as hand planing, sawing, chiselling for an hour ... actually 10 min is more like it. Power tools allow us to pursue our hobby despite decrepitude!

And unfortunately my son, who is only 43, has early onset arthritis too and finds hand tools too painful to use for long. He likes woodwork too, and I intend to leave a well set up power workshop for him!

It would be nice if the fit youngsters here were less scornful of people who can't do what they can do and do need to turn to power tools.
 
Woodmonkey":bju50t4n said:
What's your process for something like this Custard, I mean what planes would you use in what order?

It depends on the state of the slab, by and large the choice of plane (or planes) isn't as critical as the tool retailers and woodworking magazines would have us believe! Within reason I'll use whatever's to hand, but the optimum is probably to start with a wooden bodied jack with a fairly pronounced camber, working diagonally across the grain. You'll almost certainly have the slab low down on a pair of saw horses, so the extra height of a wooden plane is no disadvantage where as the slick wooden sole is a delight.

With the sawmill marks all removed along with any gross areas of wind, crook, or cupping, I'd then check the topography of the slab carefully with straight edge and winding sticks. On a smaller workpiece you can sometimes trust that by following a prescribed sequence of plane strokes something approximately flat will result, but on a bigger workpiece you have to identify high spots and knock them down. Ideally I'd do this with a number 6 or 7 with a moderate camber working along the grain (but if I only had a 5 or 5 1/2 I wouldn't worry too much). Finally, I'd either swap the moderate camber iron for something closer to a finishing iron, or I'd pick up a short finishing plane and take out as many of the planing ridges as I could.

After that if the piece was to have a thin film finish I'd use a random orbital sander, working down through the grits to 180 or 240. But if the piece was to be oiled I might call a halt right there.

The way i look at it is that to build a router planing jig big enough and true enough to accurately surface a waney edged slab, well it would be a pretty massive item in its own right. And one that would be a pig to store and set up. If I had a 1000mm or 1500mm wide thicknesser I'd use it, but for the moment anything wider than 410mm gets done by hand and that's okay.
 
MusicMan":299cdg7u said:
It would be nice if the fit youngsters here were less scornful of people who can't do what they can do and do need to turn to power tools.

I hope that wasn't aimed at me Music Man. If it was then you're wrong on several counts, not least that I haven't been described as a fit youngster for many, many years!
 
Oh Custard, I was fitter during my 50's and 60's than I ever was, I do think that MusicMan was generically making the comment not aimed at anyone in particular, as an aside I rode the London Brighton in 2hr 43mins when I was 56, my wife was in our car and I had to wait for her in Brighton, nice to have memories, but have to concentrate to remember them now days. :lol:

Mike
 
custard":3gl1vih2 said:
MusicMan":3gl1vih2 said:
It would be nice if the fit youngsters here were less scornful of people who can't do what they can do and do need to turn to power tools.

I hope that wasn't aimed at me Music Man. If it was then you're wrong on several counts, not least that I haven't been described as a fit youngster for many, many years!


Absolutely not aimed at you, Custard, you are one of the most helpful, understanding and courteous folk around. Sorry if my post gave the wrong impression.

in fact it was not "aimed" at anyone in particular, just a plea to understand that an aspect in the use of power tools is that they can greatly help to cope with medical/physical problems.
 
What sort of speeds do people run these 6 wings at? American oak is my starting material. I'm going to keep the depth of cut less than the bevel height on the cutter, aiming to take full diameter cuts.
 
Well I had a play with the new cutter today - it's fantastic! Merrily chomped through over a mm of oak at a time giving an excellent finish. I really do need to sort out an extraction solution for using a sled though, really does produce a few shavings!
 
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