Roughing gouge help

[Santos]

Hi everyone,

I like to apologise for not posting at all within the last few weeks, as I’ve been very busy with work as well as going on holiday. But recently to my delight I’ve managed to get my workshop and lathe up and running without too many problems. Now, I’m not going to pretend I know everything about woodturning because in fact I know nothing. But one thing I have realized though reading books and looking at posts is that the roughing gouge is something I should get familiar with and know how to use well. So in other words I was wondering if anyone would like to give me a few pointers or even direct me in the way of a few online articles on how to use the gouge well, seeing as today I had far too many catches.

 

[Tony Spear]

Here you go...

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Woodturning-Fou ... 1861081146

The first stop for any new turner.

 

[Jenx]

.................. And, Golden Rule ..... NEVER near bowl work with it... Spindle Turning only ! :wink: 8)

 

[Argee]

Roughing gouges are - like all other tools - best used razor sharp. Turning a square-sectioned piece of wood into a cylinder will mean that the first cuts you make need to be very light and - at low speeds - this can and will cause catches.

Although appearing counter-intuitive for someone starting out, the higher the speed, the easier the cutting will be. Think of the overall cylindrical "footprint" that the square stock makes as it revolves. The slower it revolves, the more chance of the gouge going into the "dip" between the corners, the higher the speed, the more often the corners will contact the gouge, therefore the experience will be smoother, with less chance of "dipping" into the voids and a greatly-reduced chance of catches or dig-ins.

You could always knock the corners off on a tablesaw or bandsaw if available, but I've never found the need to do that, even on large stock. Set the piece between centres, then adjust the tool rest so that it barely misses the workpiece - check this with one or two complete revolutions. Start on a slow speed to ensure no contact is made with the rest due to imbalance or run-out. Once you're happy that the piece can revolve, run it at the highest speed you're comfortable with.

Place the shaft of the gouge on the toolrest in the middle of the workpiece and move it very slowly inwards, with the bevel as the first point of contact. Once you hear the humming noise of the bevel making contact, do not advance the tool at all, but slowly begin to lift the handle until the cutting edge comes into play. Once this happens, hold that position and move the gouge to the right and off the tailstock end of the piece. Return and repeat, then switch direction and cut towards the headstock.

As you work, you will find a sweeter cut by angling the gouge into the direction of travel, so that the cutting edge makes more of a shear cut. When you first stop the lathe to check progress, you will be surprised at how little you've taken off compared to what you'd imagine and how square the piece still is, in spite of appearing cylindrical when spinning. Keep moving the tool rest forward so that it just clears, ALWAYS switch off the lathe before adjusting the rest to its new position.

I hope some of that makes sense? I turn pens with my large roughing gouge, as I find the size and weight gives a great deal of control, but it needs to be sharp enough to give a finish that requires little - if any - sanding - that way you'll get the best cuts with it.

Ray

 

[johnny.t.]

Hey santos ,THIS is the only thing I ever read when starting turning.
youtube also has lots of videos that will help 8)

HTH

JT

 

[Roy_H]

Thanks for that link Johnny. Although I've trawled as many turning sites as I could find, Brian Clifford's somehow escaped me.
Looks to be a really informative site.

Santos: I can't add much to the excellent information already relayed about the roughing gouge except to say that when I started I managed to do everything with a 3/4" for many years. I recently got a chunky 1.5" and find it useful, although I'm not sure of the benefits of using it over the smaller gouge?

Perhaps others can chime in on whether 'size matters'?

 

[BMac]

I've only got a little 3/4 incher ...but it's very effective . In fact, I have 2 gouges that size and a 1/2" but I find myself using the 3/4" size most of the time. I would use a roughing gouge more than any other tool and find them super for initial shaping of long coves and wide beads. I have watched people use the large roughing gouges and each time convince myself that I need one but haven't actually got around to buying one yet because the 3/4" does all I need.

Maybe, if I have something huge to turn down, I will buy a 1+3/4" or 2" but at the moment I am happy.

 

[Scrums]

I'd say go for one about 1 1/4" .....that's about 30mm from tip to tip. As has been pointed out, I can't think of any circumstances where you'd use it in bowl work. But when it comes to spindle work - the tool of choice for both the initial roughing down to round and the forming of tapers, concaves etc. If you're going a bit more intricate and tighter then a spindle gouge or skew comes into play.

I always feel it's best to use the biggest tool that you can get away with, maximum material removal and therefore a faster job, but then I'm doing production work when I do spindle turning.

Chris.

 

[Bodrighy]

I'd echo Chris, for spindle work the roughing gouge can take the wood down fast and, if it's kept sharp, clean as well. Keeping the bevel rubbing you can get away with sanding from 240 upwards except on wood like pine. The weight helps as well. Mine is 1 1/2" and for all but the sharpest coves and beads works fine.

Pete

 

[Paul.J]

I like using my roughing gouge for getting my logs round.
Trouble is i need to get a bigger one for the size of logs i am now doing. :roll:
As as been said just find the right speed for the piece you are doing,that is without the lathe vibrating too bad,if it is an out of balance piece,and just watch out for those points,try not to catch those by keeping the gouge tilted back.

 

[Bodrighy]

For rough work get the rest as close as you can and make sure you spin the log by hand to make sure it isn't catching. Turn off some of the protruberances and then stop, move the rest back in and start again. Look for the ghost and you cans ee where they are when it is going . leave as little space as possible between the rest and the wood.

Pete

 

[Santos]

Thanks a lot guys, I’ve learnt a great deal from what has been posted here. Currently I’m using a Perform 3/4" roughing gouge, which to be fair is very blunt as I haven’t managed to acquire a grinder yet, although this should change very soon. Today I experimented with some logs, which left me somewhat holding my trousers. But I must say the whole idea of lifting the tool handle to someone as new as me has really helped me find cutting edge. Although, something I haven’t been doing is keeping the tool rest close to the work, which might be why I’m experiencing a lack of pressure control. Just a quick question here, but would anyone here say that its good once the work has been roughed down to a cylindrical form to turn the gouge in the direction of the cut? Seeing as this is what I’ve been doing so far.

Dan

 

[stevebuk]

As mark hancock explained to us the the other night, it should be called a spindle roughing gouge, as you cant use it on end grain, so its normal name is misleading..

 

[Bodrighy]

Once the spindle is roughly round, hold the gouge so that it is bevel on wood (not cutting) an with the end of the handle against your leg or hip (dependiong on how tall you are). Move the handle up until the cutting edge starts to bite. How deep depends on the wood, your experience etc so take it easy at firsts. if you have it rolled over at about 45 degrees and pointing in the direction that you want to travel, from middle to end usually, keep the gouge still aginst your body and move your body along the direction you are going. This way you can keep a firm control on the gouge without the 'white knuckle syndrome' that comes in trying to grip it as tight as you can.

This is how I use it and also how one of the pros at the club said to use it. I found it by accident and was relieved to be told it was the right way but I am sure that there are others on here that do it differently.

Pete

 

[Argee]

Just a quick question here, but would anyone here say that its good once the work has been roughed down to a cylindrical form to turn the gouge in the direction of the cut?

Yes, that's why I said "As you work, you will find a sweeter cut by angling the gouge into the direction of travel, so that the cutting edge makes more of a shear cut"?

Ray.

 

[Santos]

Sorry Ray didn’t quite understand what you meant but I do know. Anyway thanks again guys, spent a few hours in the workshop today and put some of the advice mentioned here into practice, and I must say I’m able to make a much cleaner cut than before.

Dan

 

[Argee]

You'll also find that the finish from even a razor-sharp tool will differ, depending upon the wood you're turning, Santos. Sapele, for example, will be much easier to get a good finish straight from the tool than will pine.

Ray