Rough and ready shed extension and rebuild

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pike

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I finally decided to sort out a space to do some woodwork when I get time to. Also managed to take some photos for once during a work in progress. To cut a long story short I have extended my 10x10 shed to 20x10 by clearing a space at the back. Apologies if it's a little light on details but there isn't much too it. Basically 3x1 CLS framing, bog standard 1x4 and 1x6 cladding. Plus a lot of battens.

This is a momentous occasion for me as I've been lurking around on here for years asking advice and not really actually having a space to put anything into action.

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This is the only photo I can find of the original interwebs bought shed.

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After about a month of clearing an old compost heap, water butts, trees, huge pine stumps and more I got the 2x6 foundations down. Just enough space to exactly double the length of my 10x10' shed in an space that wasn't really used much.

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Battens around edges so I can reuse some old polystyrene for a bit of insulation.

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On goes the 18mm external ply.

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Frame went up a lot faster than all the ground prep. Had some fun keeping the tarp down in heavy wind and rain.

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Finally started taking the back of the old shed 12mm cladding down to get an idea of what the new shed space would look like.

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This was exciting for me :)

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Started getting ideas of what I might do with the biggest space I've ever had for woodworking. Working with the original shed was nothing but hassle. I had to put a truss in to fix an existing sag in the roof before I got going.

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I decided to go against my usual system (ply, framing with insulation, breather membrane then cladding) and just externally sheath with ply. The plan being if I ever justify proper insulation inside for the few hours on weekends I get to spend in there, then I'll just add more insulation and internal ply then.

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Completely connected now and realising how much junk and wood I have to sort out. Also having my first doubts about building around the existing rubbish thin shed instead of just knocking it down and starting again.

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Just before I removed the old shed plexi windows for good.

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New full length window space. I was planning on twinwall polycarb but found 3 french doors on freecycle which fit the bill. Nothing lost if I have any issues and have to get rid.

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Breather membrane and battens on the outside. I was determined to use vertical boards for cladding so had to do vertical then horizontal battens so the cladding could breath and dry out easily.

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The horizontal battens.

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A big delivery of wood had the natives excited :)

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The cladding going on and the old shed about to be hidden for good.

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A shot of where it is. Next to our home made "tree fort" and "temporary" polytunnel.

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I stuck the gable end boards on over length and cut them in place. Not enjoyable but the end result was fine.

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First time I've ever used that chalk line I bought..

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A bucket of a thousand screws and the roof cladding goes on. I knew there were easier ways to build a shed but I had a particular look in mind. I went for using the existing felt roof and ply and breather membrane then regular 1x4 and 1x6 sawn treated boards. If it doesn't work I can always put some onduline on in a year or so (fingers crossed I don't have to).

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Cheapish scaffold boards to strengthen and heighten the old shed floor.

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Polystyrene I already had being used on the old part of the shed.

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I left the horizontal battens going over the french door windows. I had half a mind to remove them if I didn't like the look but I do. Also perhaps a little security. I think I might do some little shelves on them.

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New internal ply walls.

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Getting there.

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Timber storage on wheels for easy access.

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At last it looks like somewhere I could get things done. One of the french doors is a full length roof window. Really pleased I didn't give up on doing that as the light makes a huge difference.

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My MFT style top on sawhorses. Had it cut from a local CNC and it works great and is surprisingly stable. I sold my triton workcentre and replaced in most ways with a Festool TS55.

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External shot. I intend to stain it all black when the treated timber is dry enough.

Still need to get a roof ridge, although the shed is already waterproof. A bit more cladding to do around the back. The black stain will probably be in a couple of months time.

Now I just need to run power down and get myself the bandsaw I've wanted since I moved here about 6 years ago. I started this in April this year so it's gone reasonably well I think for just the odd evening and weekend. The hope is to have power down there and be using it properly before the end of summer.

I'm thinking of not even locking it. The bandsaw and planer thicknesser are too heavy to steal and my expensive tools will be wheeled or carried down there whenever I want to do anything.
 
Thanks for the interesting WIP, good pics too!
An excellent job there, leaving you with a good 20' workshop/man hide.
I thought it blended well, old and new.
I'd be inclined to lock the workshop well, there is always when you do leave stuff behind and even a a short space of time
can see you're treasured tools going awol.
Regards Rodders
 
I quite like that, good work. However on picture 10 you mention how much junk and wood there was, I would like to point out that's a pretty small pile of junk really (I suspect others will agree) and not to worry about it :D

I'll second the lock it up well approach, with dogs and gun towers if possible. If somebody thinks there's valuable tools to be stolen on the property they may come looking in the house.
 
Thanks both. I do have a security bar I could use. I just wonder if anyone who headed into your garden with the intention of maybe breaking into your shed is going to be put off by any kind of lock. Perhaps if the door was open they might make a quick decision to go elsewhere assuming there's nothing valuable? Unless I did forget and leave something expensive and practical to steal, then they would find nothing really worth taking. Take your points though. I guess the bar probably will go on. My attitude is to not ever be worrying about what is in there though, by not leaving the portable stuff. Everything being really heavy.

I'll stick some more pics up when its properly finished.
 
Great job, looking really nice. Once stained black I think it will look very nice, quite architectural!

Terry.
 
Looks a nice workshop, well done. I noticed you have set the roof trusses inside the wall' not on top of them as usual, Some of the pictures look like the wall's are pushing out already. I for one would add extra bracing to tie the walls together..
 
IHc1vtr+":uh91bmdy said:
Looks a nice workshop, well done. I noticed you have set the roof trusses inside the wall' not on top of them as usual, Some of the pictures look like the wall's are pushing out already. I for one would add extra bracing to tie the walls together..

You're right. I will add more bracing. However my phone cam distorts, it's not as bad as it looks thankfully.
 
blackrodd":1jfd496r said:
Thanks for the interesting WIP, good pics too!
An excellent job there, leaving you with a good 20' workshop/man hide.
I thought it blended well, old and new.
I'd be inclined to lock the workshop well, there is always when you do leave stuff behind and even a a short space of time
can see you're treasured tools going awol.
Regards Rodders

Cheers Rodders. Forgot to say thanks for the advice on the extra truss in the original shed :) Got rid of the sag nicely.
 
Wizard9999":3vtshuc7 said:
Great job, looking really nice. Once stained black I think it will look very nice, quite architectural!

Terry.

Thank you Terry! I might leave the gable end natural at first to see how that looks but yeah the black I am hoping will make it look a bit garden officey.
 
John15":8ktwk6za said:
Congratulations - a really good sized shed. I wish mine was as big as that.

John

Thanks John. It's taken me 5 years+ to figure out how and where and in the end this was the quickest solution. Nearly had a attached garage built but there were difficulties there (not to mention expense) and it would have been only 2.4m wide which I think really would be pushing it. Even with this space I will be keeping it to mostly portable tools, a bandsaw and a p/t. Need to get the bandsaw in before the kids and wifey repurpose..
 
A great build and a good sized area - I'm jealous, but I have a suggestion - don't stain it black - char it with a blowtorch. I would have suggested doing this before fitting the outside cladding but oh well.

The japanese have been using this method of charring wood as a preservative measure for centuries and it lasts significantly longer than you might think.

Google "yakisugi" - or "shou-sugi-ban"; it's very effective and gives a great look as well.

You mentioned the wood battens across the french windows adding a "bit of security"... personally if the gaps are big enough to climb into and pass a tool case through, then they are pointless. Maybe some wire grill (not chckenwire) firmly fixed (not stapled) to the inside frames of all of them including the rooflight?
 
Thanks. Just posted a reply but it didn't appear probably due to phone bad reception. Coincidentally I just read up on that technique today for a different project! Is it best to use just a mini torch with attached small canister? Not sure I will attempt to char all this cladding but I agree it could work well.
 
pike":3l8jo9m0 said:
Thanks. Just posted a reply but it didn't appear probably due to phone bad reception. Coincidentally I just read up on that technique today for a different project! Is it best to use just a mini torch with attached small canister? Not sure I will attempt to char all this cladding but I agree it could work well.

Most time I have seen it done with a torch, it's been with one that's like a roofers torch, as it gives a larger flame so less time for coverage. It doesn't need to be heavily done - some go quite heavy sure, but as long as it's even and a mm or so deep it'll give good results - you can always go back over any bits later.

They occasionally sell those size torch lances at lidls and aldi's for £20 or so.

Incidentally the reason it works is insects don't eat the burnt wood and the charring has an oddly water repelling effect. I saw this the other day when I used some tongs to hold metal in a fire, then I dropped in them water for a few minutes, however when I removed them from the water, the soot on the end of the tongs was still bone dry but further up the handle it was wet. I could still remove it with a finger - most peculiar!
 
Thanks. Lidl is a bit out of my way. Aldi is near. I ended up buying a torch from amazon. I've tested on one section and so far so good. Really would've been a lot easier and safer before I put the cladding up though!
 
Quick update. I did give the charring sho sugi ban a try but as my cladding was already on it was a bit dangerous to get the blackness I wanted. So I ended up treating it black. I'm really pleased with it especially as the nearby toolshed has that finish too.

Exterior. Ridge is waiting to go on but even without it's been waterproof.

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And inside my man cave. Half painted white (I now hate painting but glad I did it..) Got the tools in quick before daughter and wifey added bunting and pillows.

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I'll probably do decking or slabs around the outside after I sort out the power.
 
Looks a very nice space. May be lodging a trades description complaint regarding the title of the thread thoug, "rough and ready", hmmm.

Terry.
 
+1 for a nice space - and good looking too. Really like the look of the vertical boarding - might give it a try on my next project in fact :D
 

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