Riving knife woes (Sedgwick TA315)

[Tim Esplan]

Hello all,
I recently (IE yesterday) acquired a used and very (really, very) cheap Sedgwick TA315 table saw. Generally speaking it is in excellent condition and complete - except for the riving knife and crown guard. A crown guard is easy enough to find but the riving knife, although available would set me back almost as much as the saw did. Does anyone have any thoughts on making a riving knife (possibly from an old blade, as I have a couple kicking around), or buying a “generic” knife at a third of the cost to use in lieu of the Sedgwick branded version? Anyone prepared to pull their knife off and trace around it and send it to me to use as a pattern? TIA, Tim.

 

[Fitzroy]

Hello all,
I recently (IE yesterday) acquired a used and very (really, very) cheap Sedgwick TA315 table saw. Generally speaking it is in excellent condition and complete - except for the riving knife and crown guard. A crown guard is easy enough to find but the riving knife, although available would set me back almost as much as the saw did. Does anyone have any thoughts on making a riving knife (possibly from an old blade, as I have a couple kicking around), or buying a “generic” knife at a third of the cost to use in lieu of the Sedgwick branded version? Anyone prepared to pull their knife off and trace around it and send it to me to use as a pattern? TIA, Tim.

May be worth changing the title to include the saw type, people with the saw are more than likely to look at it. I think making one from a pattern is your way forward.

 

[MorrisWoodman12]

I made a riving knife and guard support for my Elektra Beckum flip saw without too many problems. I bought 2mm stainless steel sheet from the bay and cut it shape with a slitting disc on an angle grinder. The shape I worked out myself from looking at the fittings. The radius of the inner curve is easy - 5 or 6mm bigger than your blade. I suggest you design your knife and make a cardboard template of it to check fit prior to cutting steel.
BTW the 2mm SS sheet was ideal as it was slightly thicker than the blade's plate and less than the kerf. The only modification has been to 'round' the leading edge, the one the wood encounters as it leaves the blade.
It can be done!
Have fun
Martin

 

[Spectric]

The important dimension is the thickness of the riving knife.

 

[SLM]

I have the same saw. Though I’m not at home, I could make you one, when I am.

 

[Tim Esplan]

Thanks all,
Yes please to that SLM, I'll also update the thread title, I was half asleep when I posted last night. My idea to make it from an old saw blade may well work then MorrisWM, the plate will be the same thickness (although presumably this will vary slightly from brand to brand) as the blade but still be narrower than the kerf.

 

[SLM]

Thanks all,
Yes please to that SLM, I'll also update the thread title, I was half asleep when I posted last night. My idea to make it from an old saw blade may well work then MorrisWM, the plate will be the same thickness (although presumably this will vary slightly from brand to brand) as the blade but still be narrower than the kerf.

I’ll be away for about a month, but by all means message me and I can see what can be done.

 

[Tim Esplan]

I’ll be away for about a month, but by all means message me and I can see what can be done.

Hopefully I'll have it sorted before then - I'm in the trade and need this machine up and running and earning PDQ but I appreciate the sentiment none the less.

 

[deema]

Here is a source for the plate steel
EBay item no 304685886141

 

[dizjasta]

The riving knife thickness needs to be matched to the kerf of the fitted saw blade . It should be slightly less than the kerf. It is essential that the riving knife prevents the saw blade plate from binding on the timber being passed through the saw.

 

[David Lloyd]

I've just made one for my old Metabo saw and I used an old blade with a tooth missing, the blade steel is good quality and springy, it won't bend easily. It was easy enough to cut to shape with a 5" grinder and a slitting disc, then shaped and formed with with a flap wheel. It drills OK as well. And it's exactly the right thickness.
I had to make a template for the shape, this saw has never had the riving knife since I bought it, but my guesswork seems to work just fine.