Require help on measurement please

[devonwoody]

Can someone please supply the missing measurement?

Got a new box in mind.

timber thickness 12mm and width is to be 115mm unless this measurement produces an unpleasant missing measure and then it can be changed.

 

[Anonymous]

Can someone please supply the missing measurement?


Got a new box in mind.

timber thickness 12mm and width is to be 115mm unless this measurement produces an unpleasant missing measure and then it can be changed.

The answer is as usual - draw a rod. Presumably you will need one when you get around to making it. What is it by the way?

cheers
Jacob

 

[woodbloke]

DW - each triangle looks equilateral so all sides are the same length, if I've done the sums right the missing measurement as per your drawing is 115-12-6=97mm. Hope of some help - Rob

 

[devonwoody]

Thanks for help both replies, a rod would be difficult because it would need two rods?
97mm should be right so a couple of rods at 97mm should prove when the need arises.

Going to make 6 boxes glued up as one piece.

Bit adventuresome seeing my SCMS only goes to 45% so will most probably have to make a false fence?

Hopefully the wind will die down later this week,(too drafty in the workshop down here at the moment)

 

[Nick W]

You can probably see this one coming but...

Get SketchUp, draw it and measure it.

 

[lemonjeff]

DW,
Rob your right their equilateral however the subtraction of the thickness should be taken @30 degrees to the 12mm thickness =13.86
The centre measurement will be half 13.86/2 = 6.93
115-13.86-6.93= 94.21mm

Jeff.

 

[devonwoody]

Thanks for help and I will print out the latest top plan.

Cutting of parts will be the next problem because bevel cuts are out for me at 60%.
The SCMS saw as a scale upto 50% and I,m thinking of a false fence to create the additional 15%.
Anyone tried that?

 

[Joe90]

Hi

Can you not do the 60 deg cuts by cutting a 30 deg cut from the opposite side?

Cheers
Joe

 

[devonwoody]

Hi

Can you not do the 60 deg cuts by cutting a 30 deg cut from the opposite side?

Cheers
Joe

Joe Many thanks for that advice, I had forgotten all about that route.

So here goes, what has been achieved so far.
Got a piece of scrap 70x35mm softwood and did a dummy run.
Softwood resawn on Bandsaw.

pieces cut at 30% as advisedd byu joe, and are satisfactory.

So got out some Br. Mahagany which had been put into storeage 5 years ago after a mistake having bein made on length.
Ripped off a 80mm board with the Triton workcentre.

Cleaned up on the P/T to 12 mm thickness x75mm

Setup at 30% on the SCMS using laser line and stop blocks with lots of cramps to stop creep

After cuttin 6 pieces, set up as per pic. below.

So looking forward to tomorrow!

 

[devonwoody]

I'm thinking of rebating the top and bottom edges for base and lid today, and also the gluing up is giving me something to think about.

So do you think its a good idea to use PVA and superglue and hand hold each section until it holds?
The problem is clamping all sections up at one session and not wanting any movement after initial grab which could happen when inserting the last piece.

 

[wizer]

This is looking good DW, I like the shape very much.

PS Your going to miss that Workcentre aren't you?

 

[devonwoody]

This is looking good DW, I like the shape very much.

PS Your going to miss that Workcentre aren't you?

No interest was shewn, so I have withdrawn the sale.

The reason as mentioned in the thread I just wanted a change but quite happy to carry on my hobby with the Workcentre.

I've suddenly realised after typing up the list of parts that its got a dado cutting setup that is most probably the equal of the old tablesaws, so thats something new to try in the future.

 

[devonwoody]

Had a good morning, cut the base dado with a 3.2mm trend router bit and the lid rebate using a perform rebate cutter that has lasted over two years.

Then found some oak face ply (ex skip chuck out again) and marked up the inside cutting line and then extended by 3mm to fit into dado.
Cut off using my workcentre and bandsaw.

Did another dummy run to make sure the base would fit into box sides.

Finally glued up three sides using pva on one face and superglue on the other and held for a few minutes until glued had grabbed.

Going back in a couple of hours and hopefully finish off the remaining parts to be glued.

 

[devonwoody]

I've got a problem.

Apart from that the rest is reasonable.

In the morning I will try some filler, if that is unsatisfactory I shall have to cover it over with a decorative piece around the base and upwards :wink:

 

[Chris Knight]

John,
To disguise the poor fit, I would run a 3mm saw kerf up the joints and inlay some ebony stringing.

 

[wizer]

how would you go about doing that Chris? Out of Interest

 

[devonwoody]

how would you go about doing that Chris? Out of Interest

I've thought of two ways. :wink:

 

[DomValente]

If you go the filler route make sure you colour to the colour you will eventually use, most fillers don't take stain well after they have hardened.
That said, the ebony strings are a far superior idea.

Dom

 

[devonwoody]

I think I am going to go straight to the stringer route because the box has so many corners and the mahogany is very tender, the extra beadings might be worthwhile.

So it might be?

1. Craft knife out and score the timber and then remove with chisel.

2. Score the timber and rub on to the bandsaw blade.

3. Make a jig plate to lay on the workcentre and run across the blade.

 

[Chris Knight]

how would you go about doing that Chris? Out of Interest

I'd make a simple cradle jig to hold the box so that the joint was touching the surface of the table saw, then run it over the slightly elevated blade, using the fence as a guide. It would only take a few minutes to make the jig I envisage.

If you want to do this, I'll try to make a sketch of it.