Reprofiling T&G tongue

[lsx]

Hi

Sorry in advance for being one of those people who only post when they need help

I've got a late victorian terrace with original pine T&G flooring that was damaged in places when the property was rewired a few years ago.

So I've managed to source some replacement boards that are a really good match to the existing (same depth, same shoulder width), even the tongue is within a mm of being in the same position, just the tongue profile is totally different. The photo shows how they current match up - the existing tongue is a V-shaped profile, the replacement have a 'U'/square one.

My question is am I being realistic in hoping I can change the profile using hand tools or a 'simple' process? I don't need the match to be perfect, but would prefer to keep the tongue so as to keep the drafts out. I am a fairly competent DIYer, just don't have much wood working experience, other than buying a DWE615 router from Screwfix live years ago and dreaming that I will get it out of the box one day. But I'm prepared to have a go!

Thanks

 

[profchris]

Can't see why not. I'd work out how much the tongue needs to be narrowed at its furthest point and use a marking gauge on each side to scribe a line. Then a shoulder plane to shave down to that line, angled back to the current shoulder. Chamfer the new edges of the tongue as needed, by eye. Finish off by trial fit/ an extra shaving or two from whichever side is not quite right.

And as I don't own a shoulder plane big enough (mine is a tiny Veritas one, used for ukulele bindings) it would be an excuse to get a decent-sized one at last!

 

[lsx]

Do you have this one? https://www.axminster.co.uk/veritas-min ... ane-952802

The tongue is 8mm wide, so I guess I'd need something about 1/2" wide rather than 6mm or so of the one in the link?

 

[Jacob]

It's not a shoulder it's two rebates. Much cheaper, better, easier to use, than a shoulder plane would be a Stanley 78 rebate plane.
I'd plane the tongue fairly freehand and have a short sample of the old board to offer up to check for fit i.e. a very loose fit best. Can't be too loose , can be too tight.

 

[TFrench]

If you don't have a vast amount of it to do, something like a used record 075 or stanley 78 would be cheap and cheerful and get the job done. No point spending on anything fancy if you're not going to use it again.
Edit
Jacob beat me to it

 

[thetyreman]

any reason why on flooring they don't use shiplap? would it not work just as well as tongue and groove?

 

[deema]

If your able to remove the board that it will join into (you may already have by the sample your showing) the easiest solution would be to reprofile the groove with a plough plane. The fence and depth stop will ensure a good quality result if you know how to use a plough plane. They can usually be picked up fairly cheaply off an auction site.

 

[johnnyb]

I like that re profile groove above. Was gonna say check axminster on eBay there selling 3 in 1 shoulder planes for £40. There often good tools too.

 

[--Tom--]

Grooving cutter in the router to make the groove fit may be the quickest and most consistent way, and seeing as you want an excuse to use the router it saves buying more tools.

Otherwise planing down would be a more peaceful way of doing it

 

[delboy47]

Yes, time to break out that router. Just make sure you have plenty of support so the router does not tilt while opening up the groove.

 

[lsx]

Wow. Thanks for all the replies.

I think I'm going to go with a used rebate plane (a Stanley 078) off an auction site.

While the shoulder plane looks nice, I'm not sure I would get the value of of it for £150. And the boards I'm fastening into are mostly fastened down so I would really only be able to route the new boards rather than the old ones.

Will just go slow and watch a load of YouTube on how to use a plane first.

Thanks all