Replacement blades for Record 405.

[Alf]

I'll just toss this and this into the fray and leave it to you to work out if the slots are in the right places or not - my head aches. :roll: :lol:

Cheers, Alf

 

[Paul Chapman]

I'll just toss this and this into the fray and leave it to you to work out if the slots are in the right places or not - my head aches. :roll: :lol:

I reckon they are the ones made for the #405/#050C with blue plastic handle. I remember seeing them packaged in those blue plastic wallets and they have "Bahco Record Tools" on them, which is the period when Record manufactured the 050C with the blue plastic handles (but I think they stopped making the #405 when Bahco took over Record and did a bit of rationalisation). The slot is on the corect side as well. Hope your head ache is better :lol:

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[Anonymous]

The record 44 ones I use to plough off a thin edge in a stanley 45 I've fixed up.....slot in blades lines up if thats important to you. Tungsten steel though,,,, Brittle for me I've found though if the grinding bevels any lower than 30 degrees. But if your aware of it, its managable.

3mm files are pretty good too. Wiltshire brand (australian) though seem to be the only brand that Iv'e come accross that makes a good blade without the tempering process. ...but I've also found with the stanley 45 I have to shim with that feeler, after a bit of meats lost from grinding off the serations. . ... but, old files are next to free

What I've also done is, which worked well.......cut a couple of blades from old woody mathersons ( or the like).....uno , worn out ones with the edge right up close to the slot.......well, just chop off on either side of the slot and you've got a couple of good blade blanks for your combination plane. Nice and thick. I love it.

old chisels as well make good combo blades.....have to get a blade whose thickness is around 4mm to fit though.

ummm....thats all I can think of.

 

[Anonymous]

Took a photo of a stanley 50 blade in a stanley 45 that I used today.

Thought it might be relevant here.

The blades not thick enough to bind up.....easy fixed with a shim....like I was talking about last post.

Can see the shim sitting on top of the blade there.

 

[Vormulac]

Thanks for all the help and advice folks, it looks like a case of thinking outside the box and seeing what's available.

 

[Paul Chapman]

Took a photo of a stanley 50 blade in a stanley 45 that I used today.

Thought it might be relevant here.

The blades not thick enough to bind up.....easy fixed with a shim....like I was talking about last post.

Can see the shim sitting on top of the blade there.

That's helpful, Jake. As a matter of interest, I've just had another look at my Record #405 and Stanley #45 (not gloating - its all in the interest of hand-tool research you understand :lol: ). Here are two pictures - the first with a Stanley #50 blade fitted to my Record #405

You will see that the blade fits quite snugly in the slot. The second picture is of the same blade fitted in the Stanley #45

You will see that the slot is definitely wider in the Stanley #45. This doesn't matter because, as you say, you can fit a shim if necessary (I don't need to on mine). The blades from the Record #405 and Stanley #45 are the same thickness and are fully interchangeable. At last we seem to have found a difference between the Record #405 and Stanley #45

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[Anonymous]

there you go.... I don't have a 405. Interesting difference though. The shims fine. Doesn't stop you from using the tool.... but prefer not to bother with it. uno.

Generally do you think the 405's is better made than the 45 ? ..... cause thats something I've noticed in other record types. More rugged.....skates straighter....that sort of thing. eg. I feel more care has been put into the making of my record 50, over the couple of stanley 50's I've got.

 

[Paul Chapman]

Generally do you think the 405's is better made than the 45 ? ..... cause thats something I've noticed in other record types. More rugged.....skates straighter....that sort of thing. eg. I feel more care has been put into the making of my record 50, over the couple of stanley 50's I've got.

Both my examples seem equally good and I'm very pleased with both of them - they are quite old and dirty looking but work well. The only difference is the handles - those on the Record are better finished with the corners rounded over so it feels better in the hand. But in terms of performance I would say they were equal.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[dunbarhamlin]

Concur. My 405 does seem better made than my 45, though:

• I prefer the tote on my 45 - it's a little wider and just fits my hand better.
• Also, I think the fence attachment/adjustment is better on the 45 - far rather have thumbscrews than have to mess around with a screwdriver.

The blades for each seem of comparable quality - both needed a significant amount of work on their backs (and I've just finished regrinding my 405 blades - the previous owner obviously didn't appreciate that he really couldn't sharpen freehand - I know I can't [] )

 

[Paul Chapman]

[*]Also, I think the fence attachment/adjustment is better on the 45 - far rather have thumbscrews than have to mess around with a screwdriver.[/list]

:? Both my Record #405 and Stanley #45 have thumbscrews.

One fault with my Stanley #45 which I forgot to mention concerned the fine adjuster on the fence. Both the #45 and #405 have a very useful fine adjuster on the fence but I noticed that on my Stanley #45 the wooden fence facing was sometimes bowing out at the centre. When I removed the wooden facing I noticed that the adjuster screw was too long and pressing on the wooden face causiing it to bow out. Two photos, the first one with wooden face removed and fence screwed out a little

The second photo shows the fence screwed up and the screw protruding

This was easily cured by drilling a small clearance hole on the reverse side of the wooden facing. It might be worth checking if you are having trouble with your fence. My #405 didn't have this problem.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[Anonymous]

I must check my fence face Paul for that problem too. Thanks.

I have noticed when using the fine adjust the face turns askew a little. Which is a bit of a worry I thought .....also I had trouble with locking its setting fixed.....the locking screw would lock one side only but not the other....cause a little wiggle.

Really feel those are big problems. They both must affect the cut.

I've given up on my fine adjust.....now just keep it all bound up tight out of use...which is a shame, because when it works well the fine adjust would be a handy feature. Better than the stuttered adjustment of the fence arms on those rods. uno.

 

[Paul Chapman]

I have noticed when using the fine adjust the face turns askew a little. Which is a bit of a worry I thought .....also I had trouble with locking its setting fixed.....the locking screw would lock one side only but not the other....cause a little wiggle.

Really feel those are big problems. They both must affect the cut.

I've given up on my fine adjust.....now just keep it all bound up tight out of use...which is a shame, because when it works well the fine adjust would be a handy feature. Better than the stuttered adjustment of the fence arms on those rods. uno.

I think it's worth keeping those parts of the plane cleaned and lubricated so that they run as nicely as possible. As you say, the fine adjustment feature is excellent for getting the cuts spot on. However, most of us can only afford to buy these planes second-hand and often the plating has started to wear off or they might be a bit rusty, which affects significantly how well and accurately the fence components run on the rods.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[Anonymous]

Sounds right Paul. I don't know how I can go about fixing the rake though on my old 45's. I recall, cleaning everything up of rust etc...lubricated, but still I can rake it a little in my hands. Bothers me. When you make a setting, be it the depth stop, or the fence, I believe it should be certain it won't move in use.

Slipping fences and skates have bothered me so much that I've actually welded on little rods onto the thumbscrews, so you've got more leverage to tighten them well and trully. If something slips accuracy's thrown to the wind. IMO. Has happened in the past.

Maybe I shouldn't worry about it so much. don't know. :roll: Thanks for photo's Paul. That tip on the fine adjust. I'll remember that one.