removing a chuck from a dewalt power shop

[david.tamlaght]

i bought a saw 2nd hand a while back and only getting round to tidying it up now.
its been sitting idle for some time by the look of it and has a chuck mounted on the motor.
anyone know mow to remove it.

 

[Against_The_Grain]

I don't believe these have a screw inside the chuck that locks the chuck in place once screwed onto the motor as you get with cordless drills, but double check first. Chuck up a 10mm hex key in the chuck and with a spanner on the arbour nut on the sawblade end undo the chuck counterclockwise, it may need a small whollop on the hex key to free it off.

 

[Sideways]

It is just a simple thread inside the motor spindle that accepts a threaded stub on the back of the chuck. No locking. The thread is handed so that the chuck screws tighter when you are drilling with it.
I would expect to remove it with a quick squirt of penetrating oil, drop the sawblade teeth down into some timber to "lock" the shaft and use sharp percussive taps from a smallish hammer on the chuck key or a similar piece of rod in one of the holes in the chuck.

 

[david.tamlaght]

thanks for the info.didn't want to damage the motor and as i'll not be using the chuck at any point,i did think about just cutting it off at the back off the chuck.looks like its been on for some considerable time.
some wd40 then and we'll see where it goes. thanks again

 

[ChaiLatte]

...percussive taps from a smallish hammer on the chuck key or a similar piece of rod in one of the holes in the chuck.

The shaft-locking idea by embedding the blade teeth is good.

The 'hit the chuck key' idea is a little cruel. As above, a big allen key clamped in the chuck is kinder.

As an alternative the the allen key, an M6 or M8 studding connector (max. 13mm a/f, so should fit the chuck) in the chuck and a spanner on it to provide the lever arm to be hit with the hammer would work.

 

[david.tamlaght]

The shaft-locking idea by embedding the blade teeth is good.

The 'hit the chuck key' idea is a little cruel. As above, a big allen key clamped in the chuck is kinder.

As an alternative the the allen key, an M6 or M8 studding connector (max. 13mm a/f, so should fit the chuck) in the chuck and a spanner on it to provide the lever arm to be hit with the hammer would work.

studding connector sounds good .i ve soaked it with wd40 and will keep doing so for a few days .chuck not even working to get the connector in so thats the first thing to ease.thanks

 

[Sideways]

The shaft-locking idea by embedding the blade teeth is good.

The 'hit the chuck key' idea is a little cruel. As above, a big allen key clamped in the chuck is kinder.

As an alternative the the allen key, an M6 or M8 studding connector (max. 13mm a/f, so should fit the chuck) in the chuck and a spanner on it to provide the lever arm to be hit with the hammer would work.

Excellent recommendations.
I agree about not wanting to bend the chuck key. If it doesn't give in easily then chucking the short leg of an allen key is much better.
We were all taught not to abuse tools with cheater bars but I actually bought a quality set of hex keys once that included a specially designed 10" cheater bar for those stubborn fasteners

 

[ChaiLatte]

Sorry to drag this up but I thought I should write this down as an idea for someone in the future.

Grab a 6mm hex bit in the drill chuck to be removed. Insert the 1/4" end of the hex bit into your favourite cordless impact driver, channel your inner tyre fitter and rattle it off. This might be good in a situation where it was difficult to immobilise the shaft on which the chuck was threaded.

 

[david.tamlaght]

came off easy enough after the oil got to work.
tried a light tap on the chuck key and away it went.
all good and thanks to one and all for the info