Record table saw and maybe an old school DW RSA...i'm scared

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Steve Maskery":2s64pjhx said:
I think we would all keep all of them if we could. I was suggesting ditching the RAS only because of space limitations. A single garage is not ideal for a fully equipped woodwork shop.
****, thank you very much for the endorsement! Much appreciated.

S


Not too sure on that Steve, I have a single garage and just re working it and can fit all three items in as well as two benches and a router table. It comfey and I can work quite happily n there.
 
riclepp":nernur1q said:
Steve Maskery":nernur1q said:
I think we would all keep all of them if we could. I was suggesting ditching the RAS only because of space limitations. A single garage is not ideal for a fully equipped woodwork shop.
****, thank you very much for the endorsement! Much appreciated.

S


Not too sure on that Steve, I have a single garage and just re working it and can fit all three items in as well as two benches and a router table. It comfey and I can work quite happily n there.
How have you arranged it/and for what (roughly)please? Being extremely green, I find it difficult to anticipate the most efficient space usage!
Although I've now bought the blades, I'm working by hand on a stand and then feed for the RAS before setting it up, which will then, in theory, speed me up on the rest of the install :)
Nick
 
I assume that you have decided to keep your kit - I think you are very sensible. You may decide later on to dispose of one or other of your items because you don't use it enough (although I seriously doubt that) but to sell such quality tools without being really sure is something you're likely to regret. I'm still collecting kit at 63 years but very rarely sell any, and never any quality stuff - it's taken me too long to acquire them.

As has been said already - work safely (book / DVD / helpful local knowledgable person / training course) and enjoy.

K
 
Afternoon chaps, before I install my RAS on the stand I built, I need to put a false 18mm shuttering ply wall onto breeze block using 1inch thick treated timber carcassing as stud.
I've tried searching on Google and on here, but can't find anything relevent, all the more annoying because someone kindly gave someone similar advice on here before Christmas iirc.
What i'd like to know is which size screws/wall plugs/bit/frequency would I need please? Also, I have no masonry drill bits, and in all probability will only need one for this job -- any frugal reccomendations please ? I'll be using a DeWalt drill with a hammer function.
Thanks in advance :)
Cheers
Nick
 
orchard":230no7wq said:
Afternoon chaps, before I install my RAS on the stand I built, I need to put a false 18mm shuttering ply wall onto breeze block using 1inch thick treated timber carcassing as stud.
I've tried searching on Google and on here, but can't find anything relevent, all the more annoying because someone kindly gave someone similar advice on here before Christmas iirc.
What i'd like to know is which size screws/wall plugs/bit/frequency would I need please? Also, I have no masonry drill bits, and in all probability will only need one for this job -- any frugal reccomendations please ? I'll be using a DeWalt drill with a hammer function.
Thanks in advance :)
Cheers
Nick
Hi Nick.

Wh do that, all that extra expense? I just got some block wall filler/paint and painted all the walls in my garage, and had it all rewired and 6 lovey double 5 footers (lights). Anyway back to he point, you said you have built a stand to put the RAS on,, then if you have any good plywood left why not then, build a shroud/cover so when using the RAS the swarf is flicked into the shroud. Get a hopper and attach this to the bottom of the shroud/cover and connect to an extractor and hey presto a reasonably clean working area. Once I have finished my garage/workshop, i will send you some pickies to see what I mean (got that idea from that nice gentleman Dodge). Might be a couple of week though :)
before I cna send the pics over to you.
 
Thanks Richard!
I was thinking that it would create a better environment aesthetically, and that it would be better for mounting shelving, attaching a RAS stand/feed/extractor etc.... :eek:
As a noob i'm not sure what you described as an extraction aid, so your pic's will be much appreciated please (i need to set up my extraction soon--although I wore a mask, making a drill-press jig out of recycled mdf yesterday would've been less devastating to the garage), and no rush, i'm not blazing a trail of wood-glory this end as a virgin ;)
I was wondering also where to install the electric sockets, would up high help manage cables ?
 
My electrical guy said to mount the box's at around 1200mm from the floor (only got 12 to do), but I might go a little higher and then put the conduit on the wall and up to the ceiling rafters. He said for the screw holes to do at 5.5mm and put in a 6mm rawplug for ariated concrete (near enough to themalite blocks I suppose as they do not need to support much weight. The reason why I went for so many sockets is that each peiech of equipment can have its own plug socket and never needs to be pulled out. I would imagine for shelving it would be the same process but with lager diameter screws and plugs.

Hope this helps
 

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