Record No.18 Knuckle Joint Block Plane

[Far2lively]

I have recently bought this stunning block plane as I saw one at work and it felt great to hold etc. It does need some restoration which I will get round to doing, my question is does anyone know where I can buy a new plane iron for this as I think it dates back to 1940

Thanks in advance

 

[toolsntat]

Very nice plane 8)
Give G&M a call.
http://www.gandmtools.co.uk/product-cat ... ane-irons/
Cheers Andy

 

[AndyT]

Nice drive by gloat on a rare plane!

Does it really need "restoration" - it looks in pretty good order from the photo.

As for the iron, if you show us the one you have in a separate photo, with measurements including the position of any slots in the underside, someone may be able to say if it's a match for any current or easier to find model.

 

[Nigel Burden]

Beat me to it. You could try Bristol Design Tools, I don't know whether they sell plane irons.
http://www.bristol-design.co.uk/

I have bought plane irons from G&M Tools and always found them very good.

Nigel.

 

[Nigel Burden]

That plane looks very similar to the Stanley 9 1/2 block plane.

Nigel.

 

[Far2lively]

Nice drive by gloat on a rare plane!

Does it really need "restoration" - it looks in pretty good order from the photo.

As for the iron, if you show us the one you have in a separate photo, with measurements including the position of any slots in the underside, someone may be able to say if it's a match for any current or easier to find model.

I was thinking about powder coating it, getting the knuckle chrome plated, removing small amounts of rust, and giving it a general clean up, would you say this is a bad idea on a plane like this??

 

[Far2lively]

I have found the correct one on a website called toolnut not sure if you guys have heard of this site.

 

[AndyT]

Nice drive by gloat on a rare plane!

Does it really need "restoration" - it looks in pretty good order from the photo.

As for the iron, if you show us the one you have in a separate photo, with measurements including the position of any slots in the underside, someone may be able to say if it's a match for any current or easier to find model.

I was thinking about powder coating it, getting the knuckle chrome plated, removing small amounts of rust, and giving it a general clean up, would you say this is a bad idea on a plane like this??

I'd say it's like putting a wig on a bald man and expecting people to believe he's not 80 years old. Old tools should look well cared for but don't need to lie about their age.

That's just my opinion and it's your plane and the season of good will, but you did ask! :ho2

Toolnut are ok, with one of the best ranges of UK-made tools.

 

[Mr_Pea]

This might fit 42mm and only £8.40

https://www.workshopheaven.com/footprin ... -42mm.html

The hole in the centre is just a hair under the size required for the older Stanley and Record models with a ten groove adjustment mechanism, nothing a little judicious filing won't sort out.

Or pay £15 for a 42mm Ray Iles one (it even mentions Record 018)

https://www.workshopheaven.com/ray-iles ... roove.html

but out of stock

 

[Jacob]

Restore it if that's what turns you on but personally I wouldn't bother I'd just get it into working order with as little effort as necessary. I wouldn't buy a "restored" tool - I'd rather see them as nature intended.

 

[memzey]

Very nice plane. I have a late 1800’s Stanley #19 that is similar and great in use. I’m with those that suggest less is more as regards restoration, especially as your one seems in such relatively good nick.

 

[Far2lively]

Ok well I’ll go with the majority and just give it a good clean over and run the base over a stone as there is some small rust patches on there. I never plan on selling it so maybe in the future I will bring it back to its former glory.

Appreciate all the opinions and help! Merry Christmas everyone!

 

[ED65]

Merry Christmas all.

Ok well I’ll go with the majority...

Nobody should be swayed one way or the other by the majority view here, especially not by spurious arguments about full restoration ruining a user-grade tool like this (hammer)

I can assure you that in a different venue the consensus on what's appropriate or desirable can be very different indeed, with the minimum intervention being the removal of ALL rust by some combination of methods.

Worse still, beware the double standard! Some think that taking dark patinated metal back to bright steel or silvery cast iron is going too far, which is fair enough they're entitled to that view. But these same people are likely not consistent when it comes to what's acceptable to do to wooden handles – a complete refinish isn't just not frowned upon, it's an accepted norm.

 

[Jacob]

Yes of course do what you like it's only a little old plane of no great value.
Where "restoration" does go sh*t shaped is on the larger scale with old building restoration - often so over-done that the original can hardly be recognised and every interesting feature has been cleaned off and destroyed.

 

[JohnPW]

I've got this plane, although it has problems with the adjustable sole. It takes the same blade as the older versions of the Record 09 1/2 and Stanley 9 1/2.

I actually prefer the Record/Stanley 9 1/2 because of its lower shape. The snap cap (I don't know what it's called, the bit you push with your palm) on the 018 feels too high for me. But the knuckle joint is fun to play with.

 

[Tony Zaffuto]

I have a Stanley #18 and the Record & Stanley are virtual clones of one another. I put a Ray Iles blade in it (believe it was O1, sharpens like O1 or W1), and it is really quite nice. Ray is a UK vendor.

I would simply clean and use the plane. Not sure how much of the stock blade is left, but use it it before buying another blade! Stock will sharpen as well as aftermarket and the wood won't tell the difference.

 

[D_W]

Ditto to what tony says, though it looks like this post is quite old. I bought two of these block planes years ago and now have one left and a box of irons. The stock iron in the plane and the ones in the boxes are soft, but you'll generally learn more from an iron that's a bit soft (about actually working wood) than you will from one that's hard.

They're not unusable (the soft irons), just softer than most of us are used to.