Recommend me the best countersink for wood / ply

[Sideways]

I have a number of countersink bits for use in pillar and power drills.
Some are OK, even good, in metal and in MDF but I don't think I've ever owned a countersink that I would call good for solid wood or ply.
The problem is caused by the grain of the wood and in many cases, countersinks in a power drill tend to vibrate and cause an irregular surface, lack of clean edges, etc.

Speed, pressure on the bit and sharpness all have an effect, but can I simply ask the members to pop up a picture showing their favorite type of countersink specifically when it will be used on wood and on ply. Most often in a cordless drill.

Thanks all !

 

[Sgian Dubh]

​

Slainte.

 

[niall Y]

The best one I ever had was given to me by a friend who worked in aviation. It was the cone shaped variety, with the single hole through at an angle, that is quite common nowadays.
The rose head ones do judder in the holes. One of my books on blacksmithing talks of making them with irregularly spaced cutting fins to lessen this problem. Though the single hole cone doesn't misbehave in the same way

 

[johnnyb]

The Japanese star m pointy drill and countersink. Hands down the best and last. They come with a plug cutter. £36 for the both.

 

[Sideways]

Thanks for these gents. I do have a large version of this (with the hole) that I used for metalwork until I blunted it on stainless. A friend with a tool grinder kindly brought it back to life for me so I shall try it on my current job.

Interesting observation about irregular fins on the rose ones, I've noticed these always seem to make an almost "5 point star" pattern and maybe changing that would fix this.

 

[Spectric]

I use these

https://www.tooled-up.com/noga-ng3100-countersink-deburring-tool/prod/398399/

Designed for deburring holes in metal but work well in wood but at slow speed.

 

[ChaiLatte]

I do have a large version of this (with the hole)

I think they are also known as 'zero flute' countersinks. That might open up some other supply options.

Like you say, the granular nature of natural timber combined with the lack of rigidity of a hand-held machine does lead to a non-circular divot in the material.

With a metalworking counterbore, they are often piloted. I think you can also get piloted countersinks, which would help with the freehand driving, but they are likely to be a specialist aviation tool and be priced accordingly.

 

[Noel]

+1 for the cone with a hole type, best I've ever used in most materials.

Like this (no idea if these particular ones are good quality): https://www.manomano.co.uk/p/chamfe...-bit-for-wood-aluminum-plastic-4-pcs-41255804

 

[HOJ]

Personally I'm not a Trend y kind of guy, but I picked up one of these a few months ago and have been very pleased with its performance:

C Sink

 

[Cabinetman]

To help stop the juddering try countersinking before you drill the hole,it’s what I do all the time now, I think it was Doug on here said about it.
It also is easier to get the hole exactly where you want it, quite a bonus sometimes.
So because of this I just use a cheap finned rose one.
Ian

 

[Doug71]

I've tried a few of the deburring type and found the Festool version to be good, it's sharper than the rest and doesn't seem to clog as much as my others, I think that's because it has a bigger hole through the middle...........Typical Festool, half the metal and twice the price

 

[Cabinetman]

@johnnyb is that your recommendation or are you trying to shock us with the price tag £36!

 

[johnnyb]

I've misplaced my countersink it's in one of my little used tool boxes somewhere! I'm just saving for a new one! I recall having a rush of blood to take me over the £50 free shipping. I can't recall what the other thing was but this is very memorable! And it's that really hard-wearing hss.

 

[recipio]

Wealden do a range of TC coated drill/countersinks and counterbores. They are odd sizes so you really need to buy their TC plug cutters to match. I've used them for 15 years and they are as good as new. Worth the investment.

 

[Sideways]

I'm getting a ton of useful recommendations here, thanks a lot everyone !

 

[Phil Pascoe]

To help stop the juddering try countersinking before you drill the hole,it’s what I do all the time now ...
Ian

I run a counter sink into the holes on large hinges before drilling the holes. Put the hinge in place and countersink always runs to the centre of the holes so your pilot holes will be dead centre. It also cleans up any roughness on the hinge if they're not particularly good.

 

[Jake]

I've tried a few of the deburring type and found the Festool version to be good, it's sharper than the rest and doesn't seem to clog as much as my others, I think that's because it has a bigger hole through the middle...........Typical Festool, half the metal and twice the price

That snail type one is my normal go to, but then again the depth stop ones are the other - rose - type and those also work perfectly.

 

[sams93]

I use the Fisch countersink bits with the single hole through the middle. Stays sharp and always makes a clean hole. They do two sizes but looks like only the smaller one available on this website currently.

https://www.quality-woodworking-tools.com/product/fisch-premium-chatter-free-countersinks/

 

[deema]

The single hole counter bits are called snail counter bits.

 

[pgrbff]

Fisch or Famag with hole.