Reclaimed oak flooring

[chippy1970]

I have just been asked to rip up about 160 square metres of t&g solid oak flooring. The floor cannot be more than 2 years old if that and it was stuck down to 18mm ply but whoever fitted it must have screwed thru a pipe when fitting the ply now the water has cupped a lot of the oak boards and it all has to be removed and I am going to fit new engineered boards.

I have to get rid of the floor but I was thinking can it be re-used ie run over a planer or something to flatten it out. It has a laquered finish on the top and the only adhesive is on the underside none of the tongues or grooves have glue in them so they are all fine. Obviously they would end up slightly thinner but I think it would still be thick enough to use again.

I wonder if Ebay would be the place to put it, only problem I have is that it has to be cleared as soon as I lift it really.

If anyone has done something like this before and sold on old flooring please let me know.

Cheers

 

[jasonB]

Make sure you get a moisture meter to check the subfloor before laying teh new stuff, could want a couple of months to dry out if its been leaking that long.

Jason

 

[StevieB]

160 sq meters is a huge area! Where abouts in London is it? It should still be useable as you say, although possibly not as flooring. Someone will take it off you on e-bay but if you can thickness it down first you will get alot more for it.

Steve

 

[chippy1970]

The job is in Holland Park West London just inside the congestion zone :x :evil:

I dont know how long they have had the leak they are expecting it up and a new floor down within 2 weeks but dont worry I will get advice on the moisture etc hopefully it wont be too bad I might have to replace some of the ply too.

 

[would not]

I work with flooring systems that will allow flooring to be put down in days not months. It's true the floor should be below 75% and that's not using a damp meter that you insert 2 spikes into the concrete- that won't give a good reading.

Any how you can apply a liquid DPM to seal the moisture in the slab then use specialist flooring screeds and self levelling compounds to give you the require surface to lay onto- these can be layed within a few days and then you put you're wood straight down.

The other method is to use a rubber sheet DPM and put the wood onto that.

 

[chippy1970]

I work with flooring systems that will allow flooring to be put down in days not months. It's true the floor should be below 75% and that's not using a damp meter that you insert 2 spikes into the concrete- that won't give a good reading.

Any how you can apply a liquid DPM to seal the moisture in the slab then use specialist flooring screeds and self levelling compounds to give you the require surface to lay onto- these can be layed within a few days and then you put you're wood straight down.

The other method is to use a rubber sheet DPM and put the wood onto that.

Its not on a concrete floor, its a timber joisted ground floor but one section is an extension which used to be an outside area so this is concrete but who ever did the floor before fixed 3x2's to the concrete in that area and then fixed ply all over the whole floor they then glued the wood floor to that with what looks like a solid troweled on glue (ie not flexible like Sikabond)

The customer thinks the floor layer must have put a screw thru a pipe while fitting the plywood which could be true but on looking around a cant see many air bricks on the outside so the original floor may not be very well vented. I wonder if they bothered extending the original air bricks when the extension was built years ago, they should have put flat channel ducting in to continue the airflow to the outside.

I have to rip up the floor on Monday so the insurance assessor can take a look at it all.

 

[chippy1970]

I need a bit of advice whats the best option for glueing down the engineered flooring over the old ply, we will use a sander to remove the old adhesive first so its clean.

The client is ordering all the floor as he buys loads of it for varous buildings he owns and he is ordering tubs of sika probably T54 something like that as thats what we have used before but on concrete screed.

Will Sika work ok going over plywood obviously I will paint the whole area with the special sealer/primer first ?