Ready to take the plunge........

[dynax]

i've had a play about, will definatley need new blades, tried on different tables and stands, some are noisier than others, so i will make a dedicated one for it, other than that all seems well,

 

[NazNomad]

I made a close approximation of this stand for my Delta, it transformed the whole experience for me.

http://scrollsawworkshop.blogspot.co.uk ... -from.html

 

[bigbob1]

Well done Mike I have just recently started too and have been following Scrollsawparadise and two of his simple tips has helped me out the first is new blades come with a film of oil on them I now wipe the ends of the blade with white spirit and also give them a rub with 120 grit and now have very little incidents where the blades come out of the blade clamp after being tightened. The second tip is when using a new blade take it up to tension then run it for ten seconds take the tension off with the blade tension lever and the blade has stretched undo the blade clamp reseat the blade then do the blade clamp up then the new blade is fully stretched. All simple stuff which most folk who have done scrolling for years probably do this all the time but to a newbie like me is a revelation. Still have not made anything yet with the scroll saw except a celtic knot pen I have turned and used the scroll saw to do the cuts and used a coke can instead of wood

 

[Claymore]

.......

 

[dynax]

Thanks Bob, all tips welcome,
Hi Brian, i have a long way to go yet to reach the quality of yourself and others on here,
thanks Naz, i will make something similar but on castors, also thought about using some carpet on the base the saw sits on, i haven't had the chance to do anything today, plenty of time though to get to grips with it all, cheers,

 

[loftyhermes]

Well done on getting the saw Mike, you could try putting a paving slab under the saw, it might help. Steve Good has some videos on youtube that might help you as well. https://www.youtube.com/user/sdgood/videos
happy scrolling
Steve

 

[bigbob1]

Bob have ya got a photo of your Celtic Knot pen?

Hi Brian here it is. The actual knot is from a coke can which has the ends cut off and then cut into strips to slightly more than the width of the pen blank. About an inch down the blank you take a square and draw a 90 deg line on all sides then draw a 45 deg line off the R angle on all sides then cut through the first 45 deg but stop about 1/16th of an inch before going right through the blank then glue in coke can strip with medium c a glue and use accelerator then go and do the same to side 2 until all 4 sides are done at which point you will have a cross on each side when this is turned on a lathe these crosses turns into a Celtic knot. The wood used was Lime which has very little interesting grain so I used different stains to hopefully make a more attractive pen the pen was finished with 9 coats of thin c a and sanded and polished

Mike I use an A frame stand for the scroll saw it is easy to build if you have a chop saw just set the saw to 10 deg set up a stop, cut the 4 legs and cut 4 sides 2 for each "A" then 4 bits of wood without the 10 deg angle to join the 2 A frames together and then put a top of ply or mdf on sorry for the state of my workshop.

 

[dynax]

thanks Steve,
Nice pen Bob, and thanks for the picture of your bench,
ordered some blades from Axminster, i got some reverse tooth 3,5,9 they were out of stock of 7's, i will start to build up a selection and buy some every month of the different types, cheers,

 

[dynax]

Finally managed to get the stand made this afternoon, also ordered the ink for the printer which should arrive Tues/Wednesday, so all systems go now, here's a couple of pics of the stand still got some end pieces to go on but it is workable for now,cheers,

 

[dynax]

Got the chance to have a play this afternoon, i used a pegas no3 reverse skip tooth blade, i cut out some various shapes using both fast and slow speeds, i noticed there was some flexing in the blade, i cut some 6mm ply and 18mm whitewood, also i will have to do something with the insert as there is a slight lip between it and the table, i will probably get some acrylic sheet and make some zero clearance inserts, but apart from doing some more practice cuts all seems good, no vibration and very little noise with either of the speed settings, cheers,

 

[Claymore]

......

 

[dynax]

cheers Brian, i was hoping to have a go today, but due to unforeseen circumstances it was not happening, as posted in the off topic section,

 

[dynax]

Hooray made a start, i printed off a copy of a simple sea shell pattern, it seems a popular choice as a beginners project, anyway i printed it onto some decent gloss paper and laminated it, reason for laminating is that i can use masking tape to make the indivual templates, saves messing around with glue and sellotape and suchlike, well just having a coffee after cutting my first 2 pieces, i only have some 25mm masking tape, next time i'm out and about will pick up some wide stuff saves having to overlap on wider sections, i'm only using 18mm pine for this first attempt, but if it comes out to a reasonable standard i will stain the pieces to give it some character, cheers,

 

[loftyhermes]

Mike, all I do is print onto ordinary paper, spray the back of the pattern with repositionable glue and stick it to the wood. If I think that the blade might burn the wood then I cover the pattern with clear packing tape after I've drilled the holes.
happy scrolling
Steve

 

[dynax]

Hi Steve, for fretwork stuff i will use that method, but for intarsia, i find the way i'm doing very quick and easy, but we all have our own ways of doing the same job, cheers,

 

[loftyhermes]

No worries Mike, I didn't realise you were doing intarsia.
happy scrolling
Steve

 

[Aggrajag]

For my scrolling (not intarsia) I use the masking tape method which can be left on the wood for weeks if I get distracted, and prittstick my pattern (cheap paper) on top of that. No risk of residue and easy to remove when ready.