I am pulling a radial arm saw to bits as I cannot get a new switch anymore. (dw1201) I thought to wire the motor direct then break the live with a switch. There are four wires coming from the motor. The usual brown,blue and earth plus a black wire. When I wire the other three to the mains nothing happens at all. Presumably the black wire is important but I haven't a clue. Any ideas? Harry
ras
- Thread starter htf666
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You're right.
The Line (Live, brown) wire from your flex needs to join with the brown (L1) from the motor and one of the white wires from the capacitor; I did this using a soldered t-splice and some heat shrink, using a connection block is probably better practice.
The remaining White wire from your capacitors wants to go to the Black (L2) wire from your motor.
The blue (L3) wire goes to the blue Neutral wire in the flex.
The Earth (PE) wire joins to the earth of the flex.
Crucially, when you put the NVR switch into the flex, remember that the earth should not be switched, if your contactor has 4 connection points, that's because it's intended to be dual voltage and allow 3Ph+N as well as L+N; a purpose built DOL will usually have a built in connection block for the earth wire which neccitates striping an extra few inches of cable, and trimming the L&N strands back, to leave sufficient wire to reach with the earth strand. Apologies if you already knew that, but it's safety critical.
The Line (Live, brown) wire from your flex needs to join with the brown (L1) from the motor and one of the white wires from the capacitor; I did this using a soldered t-splice and some heat shrink, using a connection block is probably better practice.
The remaining White wire from your capacitors wants to go to the Black (L2) wire from your motor.
The blue (L3) wire goes to the blue Neutral wire in the flex.
The Earth (PE) wire joins to the earth of the flex.
Crucially, when you put the NVR switch into the flex, remember that the earth should not be switched, if your contactor has 4 connection points, that's because it's intended to be dual voltage and allow 3Ph+N as well as L+N; a purpose built DOL will usually have a built in connection block for the earth wire which neccitates striping an extra few inches of cable, and trimming the L&N strands back, to leave sufficient wire to reach with the earth strand. Apologies if you already knew that, but it's safety critical.
The beast lives. Temporarily wired it to the supply and it sprung into life. Next job is to wire my on/off switch into the works and away we go.The only difference is losing the no-volt release function but I can live with that.
It's wired to a 16amp circuit so I switch off at the breaker after use. Thanks to Jelly for confirming my wiring theory and enabling me to switch it on without using a long stick. Harry
It's wired to a 16amp circuit so I switch off at the breaker after use. Thanks to Jelly for confirming my wiring theory and enabling me to switch it on without using a long stick. Harry
I would really strongly suggest fitting a no volt release type switch with thermal overload, (commonly sold on eBay as DOL Starters for about £25-30).
Setting aside the obvious safety benefit in terms of unintended starts, if your wires degrade or get nicked exposing conductor, It's the difference between a minor inconvenience and minor electrical fire; I learned that the hard way.
Setting aside the obvious safety benefit in terms of unintended starts, if your wires degrade or get nicked exposing conductor, It's the difference between a minor inconvenience and minor electrical fire; I learned that the hard way.
Now that I have rebuilt the ras I have more problems. The saw starts up and spins but has all the power of a Fisher price toy.If you offer up a piece of wood it stops the blade. Am I right in thinking this is a duff capacitor? Harry
